[HWYSTR455]

The piece I cut off the hard line was the AC fitting, and that's what I glued into the heater valve so I could mount it on the bulkhead manifold.

On the 'bird, I'm going to use a straight manifold, and use non-AC kick panel, and retain the fresh air setup. Won't be able to use the 2nd fresh air source in the top of cowl, but at least will get some fresh air from kick panel.

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[Gator67]

The aluminum RAIV 535 is almost ready to fire up.

[Gator67]

My 535 is alive! Sounds amazingly docile at idle, but it absolutely rips with the lightened crank. Still not sure which intake I'm going to end up using. We have a Shootout on it now but if there's room under the hood, I may go with a shortened Victor, which I'm told will get it close to 700hp 700tq. I'll probably take it home this weekend and get the bell housing dialed in. RobbMc was out of alignment dowels but I got lucky and found some at Silversport. Unfortunately, they were marked up 100%! At least I have them and can move forward. In preparation for this, I cut-off the bottom lip of the bell housing. I hated to do it, but I think I would hate getting hung up on it even worse!

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by Gator67

My 535 is alive! Sounds amazingly docile at idle, but it absolutely rips with the lightened crank. Still not sure which intake I'm going to end up using. We have a Shootout on it now but if there's room under the hood, I may go with a shortened Victor, which I'm told will get it close to 700hp 700tq. I'll probably take it home this weekend and get the bell housing dialed in. RobbMc was out of alignment dowels but I got lucky and found some at Silversport. Unfortunately, they were marked up 100%! At least I have them and can move forward. In preparation for this, I cut-off the bottom lip of the bell housing. I hated to do it, but I think I would hate getting hung up on it even worse!

Congrats!!

Instead of a shortened Victor you may want to try a KRE Northwind. It is 1.2" shorter than a standard Victor and is supposed to perform about the same. Only issue is they are currently back-ordered. I ordered one for my TA Late Decmeber with highport port match and plenum work and was told it would be 4-6 weeks (its been two so far).

[Gator67]

Hoping to install the engine and transmission, and as much on the firewall as possible this week, so we can bolt on the front clip and get the car back home so I can do the wiring and plumbing. Happy I decided to keep most of the factory emblems.



Still running down small parts. For example, need to find a switch for the parking brake...looks like they're unique for 70-71 and nothing available aftermarket or on-line. Hoping I can make another year work. Also need a wiper motor arm for my recessed wipers.

Bellhousing alignment checked out, well within spec. Unfortunately, it looks like I have the wrong pilot bearing. I had the small one that I purchased with the transmission (1.094 OD), which isn't even close to fitting in the crank (the hole is around 1.025 OD). I started looking for a bearing or bushing in that size, but then it occurred to me that I need to use the larger bearing (1.378 OD). This became clear when I measured the input shaft and calculated where the bearing surface would need to be. I'm hoping the tried and true 7109 will work. The t56 input shaft is .60 and I think the ID of the bearing is .59. I have one on the way from Summit.

[bird72]

Coming together wonderously................... real art and craftsmanship. AAA+++

[Formulabruce]

Just used this with a TK5

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Gator67

My 535 is alive! Sounds amazingly docile at idle, but it absolutely rips with the lightened crank. Still not sure which intake I'm going to end up using. We have a Shootout on it now but if there's room under the hood, I may go with a shortened Victor, which I'm told will get it close to 700hp 700tq. I'll probably take it home this weekend and get the bell housing dialed in. RobbMc was out of alignment dowels but I got lucky and found some at Silversport. Unfortunately, they were marked up 100%! At least I have them and can move forward. In preparation for this, I cut-off the bottom lip of the bell housing. I hated to do it, but I think I would hate getting hung up on it even worse!

I doctor the bellhousings too, way better than having it hang up on a dip or speedbump at speed, ask me how I know!

I've done lakewoods last 2 times, wish I would have got a QT this time around. I also doctor the pass side starter bubble, makes filter changes much easier. Also do a slight 'U' cutout at the very bottom to allow for air gap adjustment/checking.

Sorry been out for a while guys, I got COV with pneumonia, literally almost died, just came home for homecare yesterday. God intervened, and the tons of prayers are why I'm writing this now. Still a solid 2-5week recovery period for me, but I'm alive!

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[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Sorry been out for a while guys, I got COV with pneumonia, literally almost died, just came home for homecare yesterday. God intervened, and the tons of prayers are why I'm writing this now. Still a solid 2-5week recovery period for me, but I'm alive!

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Sorry to hear about the illness. Sounds awful, scary...happy to hear you're on the path to recovery.

I'll consider those additional modifications to the BH. Frank recommended a remote oil filter so I don't have to worry about the passenger side starter bubble. Not sure where I'm going to mount it yet.



Not sure if mentioned this before, but the plan is to run factory style accessory brackets. I got these a while back, I think they're from a '71. Just have to figure out where everything goes, and what to do with the new style A/C compressor.



In the background is my son's 79 Y84 no t-top project.

[HWYSTR455]

The System 1 stuff is top-notch, though does require somewhat frequent servicing. The biggest issue I've had with remote setups is plumbing. For example, depending on headers, how you install fittings at block, etc, you may be limited on the routing, flow, and can end up adding heat to the oil. Just throwing that out there.

Compressor brackets for the Sanden compressors. Use the Vintage Air one if you are planning on using OE brackets and pulleys for ALT/PS/etc.

https://www.vintageair.com/brackets/?subcat1=Pontiac

Personally, my opinion is the OE setups are a waste of time anymore, just go straight to a serp setup. No slip, no alignment issues, reliability, easy routing, options on PS pumps etc, high RPM capable, and just so much less worry.

The best? Billet Specialties. But you pay for the best. It's worth it though.

The March Ultra now has a tensioner, and is pretty good, but it's still a notch or so down from the Billet Specialties.

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[Gator67]

Since I have all the brackets, pulleys, spacers, accessories, etc, including the Vintage A/C bracket which I forgot I had, I'm just going to see how well it works. Everything seems to be lined up and super solid. I sent the brackets off for powder coating on Friday. If I start throwing belts, or it can't handle 150 amp alternator, or the Saginaw power steering pump doesn't work well with the DSE rack, I'll revisit the serpentine system. In addition to Billet Specialties and March, I'll look into CVF.

Going to run factory valve covers...just have to wait for the longer bolts (to accommodate the thicker gasket) to arrive.



Hauled the engine, transmission, etc., to Randy's to install. Thought we'd get it in on Friday, but spent more time on firewall, steering shaft, etc.





Door panels just sitting on the door...surprised they fit this well. Still waiting on the rear seats and armrest panels from the upholsterer. The reproduction sail panels looked good but were .5" too short at the back end (could see the original screw hole) and needed to be trimmed to fit around the window. Found some really nice used ones on eBay that fit much better.

[Gator67]

One step forward, two steps back. Finished the RH door panel and mirror. Happy with how it turned out. But had to remove the wiper motor due to interference with valve covers. The engine sits back 1.5" in the DSE frame and may need to come back a bit further so that the Canton oil pan clears the steering rack. The factory wiper motor might work with the OEM valve covers, but I'm not counting on it. Not sure what my options are except maybe an aftermarket unit from Raingear.

[Gator67]

I tried moving the engine back to create space between the pan and steering rack, but ended up being way too close to the firewall, and various other issues arose that would have been difficult/costly to address at this point. I considered using the motor mount spacers I made previously, but hood clearance and driveline angles will be challenging enough. Ultimately, we found there's more room than we originally thought between the pan and crank/main cap, so decided to contour the pan to create the needed space. Hopefully, we'll get the engine and transmission back in for good next weekend. Then next week hang front sheetmetal, hood, bumper, etc.

[Gator67]

Engine is in the car, finally. It looks like almost .25" between the pan and rack, so good to go there. I had the headers built with motor mount spacers in place, so I was relieved when I installed them without spacers and found no issues. I hadn't thought to check clearance with the balancer pulley, and that worked out as well. Plenty of room for steering rack and dipstick. Overall, it was a good day.

[Gator67]

Progress. Though, not yet happy with the routing and fit of the A/C lines and HCV so need to pull the RH fender off.

I did learn an important lesson about stainless steel bolts (the ones supplied with the DSE body mount kit)...they really do need anti-seize lubricant. Amazing how the simplest mistakes slow these projects down.

[Gator67]

So what are folks using for cowl seals with Formula hoods? Metro is too tall/stiff so closing the hood creates a bow, about 1/8" above the fenders at the peak. It doesn't look too bad but I'm loath to put that much stress on the fiberglass hood...without the cowl seal the hood sits flat and even with fender. Have the hinges up about as far as they can go before we run into other issues.

[Gator67]

Getting closer. Plan to bring the car home next week. Then it's time to tackle wiring. And after that, brake and fuel lines. I'll be using NiCopp for the hard lines, and have the bending & flaring figured out...just have to buy fittings.

I don't know where to start with regard to making AN lines, so I need to research that. I'd like to use the same source/brand for everything....Any recommendations?

[Pepi]

Looking good!!!

[Gator67]

More progress.

[Gator67]

Still lots to do, but easier to chip away now that the car is home.