[trshman]

I'm on a quest to reduce my engine operating temp. I've tried many things and read many suggestions to my posts and those of others. The only remaining thing for me is to install an alum radiator. I was doing a search on the internet for them and included in the results was a link to a product called "Motor Max" at "www.firefreezemotormax.com"

They make some impressive claims and have some impressive testimonials, but their video demo is what caught my attention. I'm considering buying but thought I'd ask if anyone has actually tried their stuff.

Thanks in advance,
Bob G.

[trshman]

I'm on a quest to reduce my engine operating temp. I've tried many things and read many suggestions to my posts and those of others. The only remaining thing for me is to install an alum radiator. I was doing a search on the internet for them and included in the results was a link to a product called "Motor Max" at "www.firefreezemotormax.com"

They make some impressive claims and have some impressive testimonials, but their video demo is what caught my attention. I'm considering buying but thought I'd ask if anyone has actually tried their stuff.

Thanks in advance,
Bob G.

[dallas]

How do they claim their product reduces engine temp? Is it one of those "water wetter" additives for the radiator, or an oil additive? Everything I've read says that the "wetters" are BS. Most of the (oil) superlubricants are chlorine-based now (instead of PTFE) and seem to work well. They use the chemical/physical characteristics of chlorine (very slippery) to cut friction. Which is best is the question. Some are as much as $24 for a pint, while CD-2 is only $6 for a quart. Concentration, I guess...?

I used TNT when it first came out in the late '70s. I really couldn't tell how effective it was. Obviously, Slick 50 has some merits, but they may be only for short mileage engines. I have used Duralube and a few others for at least 15 years. I can't say for sure, but I never have heating problems in any of my cars. I did blow a radiator hose in a BMW 735 I was driving, and it stayed together without water for quite a few miles until I got home. That was Duralube.

I use Mobile 1 synthetic in my ZR-1. It is recognized by all the GM and Corvette sources to run cooler. But, at almost $5/qt. it makes an expensive oil change...especially with a 9 qt. oil pan + filter. It can go for 10,000 miles if you need it to, though.

[jhfaust]

Don't know about the cooling additives themselves but I do know that if you use the synthetic oils in an older motor it will probably leak oil all over your driveway! The synthetic lubes are just a bit too slippery for an engine with oil seals that are starting to show their age and they (the syn.oils) will find their way past any small cracks/leaks that you might have in your engine seals. At least that was my experience with using them--they lubricate well and last longer but may cause problems in an older motor...I recall that the rear main leaked like crazy. It was a sign to pull it out and rebuild.....

Jim.

[trshman]

Dallas,

It is a radiator additive a la "water wetter" which I tried and also found ineffective. There's an old saying, "you pay your money, you take your chances". I ordered some and I'll find out soon enough and let you know. They had testimonials from "Dick Simon Racing" Indy race team and "A.J. Foyt Racing" NASCAR racing team which is really what made me take the chance and buy it. We'll see what happens [img]smile.gif[/img]

Bob G.

PS. The only oil additive that I ever saw visible results with was Prolong. I put it in my '85 Eldo about 6 years ago and saw my temp drop from 220 in town w/ac on hot days to 200. Unfortunately it only made a 5 degree change in my 400ci but that's more than I ever saw from Slick 50 or anything else.

[dallas]

Jim;

You are correct about using synthetics in older engines. I had to increase the Mobile 1 from 10-30 to 15-50 in my ZR-1 because it seemed to be "disappearing" too quickly. The engine now has 99,000 miles and the heavier weight helped a lot. Synthetics would probably be ok in a newly rebuilt engine.

I think Prolong is very similar to Duralube, but in a higher concentrate. I new a shop owner here in Vegas who developed his own blend that was better than all of the others, but has really had trouble getting it placed on shelves. It's called Maxilube. I think he sponsors a race car or two, but it takes major bucks to get into the auto stores. I was really impressed with his test results (especially the comparisons), but I moved across the valley and haven't been to his shop in a few years. Sometimes the best stuff never makes it to the shelf.