[64speed]

On my car the front master cylinder bowl has perfectly yellow brake fluid the back bowl the fluid has turned orange. Any suggestions? Pedal feels fine, same brand of fluid.

[gtokid1968]

What type of car?
What type of fuild?
How many miles?

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by 64speed

On my car the front master cylinder bowl has perfectly yellow brake fluid the back bowl the fluid has turned orange. Any suggestions? Pedal feels fine, same brand of fluid.

If there is iron in the rear part of the system, the fluid may turn darker as it absorbs moisture from the air. Such as an iron wheel cylinder or caliper. You didn't mention anything about the brake system, such as aluminum front calipers that would tend to keep the fluid cleaner. You also didn't mention what you were using for fluid. DOT 3 will turn darkest fastest. DOT 4 a little slower. (absorbs water slower). DOT 5.1 the slowest of the glycol based fluids. All three of these fluids are compatible and can be used, mixed, changed at will. DOT 5, silicone fluid should not change color and can't be mixed with anything else. Hope this helps.

[mrmark1957]

I changed the rear wheel cylinders on my '73 lemans last week and the fluid that came out was orange, looked like rusty water. You may have water contamination in the rear brake fluid system.

[64speed]

Stock ford explorer calipers on rear. Hydroboost and wilwood calipers on front

[geeteeohguy]

Orange = Rust. likely in the caliper bores.

[64speed]

I am gonna drain it and see how long it takes to turn again

[64speed]

I guess the only iron in the system is the hydroboost unit and the rear calipers

[chrisp]

Brown indicates that your fluid has collected a significant amount of contamination, and might have absorbed moisture, as well.

[64speed]

OK other than just pumping it out with the pedal what method should I use to make sure its gone

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by 64speed

OK other than just pumping it out with the pedal what method should I use to make sure its gone

That should work, hook a clear hose on the bleeder, put end of hose in a clear bottle, pump pedal until fluid in hose is clear. Suck out all the old fluid in the Master Cylinder first.

[SRR]

Are you using the original combination valve? I just finished a complete brake job on a 72 C20 to include new wheel cylinders and all the hoses. I bled the system until I got only clean fluid. The back brakes were still locking up. I disassembled the combination valve...It was full of mud and probably now working correctly. Just a thought.