#101  
Old 11-05-2022, 10:06 PM
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Scarebird Scarebird is offline
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One of the issues that bothered me was how to mount the MAF mount. It has two threaded holes but nothing else. Bolting it in was a no-go - if the screws come loose that is bad news! Eventually I figured out rivets are the way to go here.

Two ways I can see to do this. One is simply buy long rivets, the other is to drill and counterbore. That is the path I took.

First you need to cut open a rectangular hole for the sensor. I use an angle grinder with cut off wheel. Not the best as it is not a clean hole and the cutting disc can load up with aluminum.
File work will clean this up.



Time to drill and counterbore. Rivets required about 3/16" of material to fall into grip range.



Rivet tool would not reach into hole so washers were stacked till flush plus a bit more.

Make sure mount is clocked the correct way - the blade style only flow one way.



Test fitting in engine compartment. I will use sealant around the perimeter of the mount - no leaks here! Pipe will be scotchbrited then cleared after sealant dries.

I hope there are better mounts that already have mounting hole and rivets ready to go...

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Last edited by Scarebird; 11-05-2022 at 10:13 PM.
  #102  
Old 11-07-2022, 10:44 PM
Scott Roberts Scott Roberts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarebird View Post
One of the issues that bothered me was how to mount the MAF mount. It has two threaded holes but nothing else. Bolting it in was a no-go - if the screws come loose that is bad news! Eventually I figured out rivets are the way to go here.

Two ways I can see to do this. One is simply buy long rivets, the other is to drill and counterbore. That is the path I took.

First you need to cut open a rectangular hole for the sensor. I use an angle grinder with cut off wheel. Not the best as it is not a clean hole and the cutting disc can load up with aluminum.
File work will clean this up.



Time to drill and counterbore. Rivets required about 3/16" of material to fall into grip range.



Rivet tool would not reach into hole so washers were stacked till flush plus a bit more.

Make sure mount is clocked the correct way - the blade style only flow one way.



Test fitting in engine compartment. I will use sealant around the perimeter of the mount - no leaks here! Pipe will be scotchbrited then cleared after sealant dries.

I hope there are better mounts that already have mounting hole and rivets ready to go...


Very impressive work!

  #103  
Old 12-01-2022, 10:37 PM
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The VSS issue. To recap earlier GM's, roughly mid 80's to early teens had a pulse type 2 wire VSS. If you buy a Tremec that is what they come with. Unfortunately mid-Teen and later GM's use a PCM that requires a Hall Effect transducer; a 3 wire sender. To my knowledge Tremec does not make a sensor for this. Later Fords also are 3 wire.

After scanning rockauto I selected a 2015-2022 Canyon VSS; it looked like it was the correct unit (GM 84427801).

wrong.

As you see it is a bit shorter (0.085") and narrower (0.940" vs 0.740").



I hung onto it too long and cannot return it. They run around $45. So I cut off the mounting ear and trimmed the mount section to match the barrel at 0.740". Amazingly it did not come apart. So I grabbed a piece of scrap round stock and made a top-hat shaped adapter, O-ring groove included.



The O-ring needs 0.100 deep groove, but the wall is only 0.100" thick so the groove is 0.65" deep and the O-ring is trimmed down a bit. No doubt lots of grease will be needed here!

The Tremec VSS mount tab was removed and now holds the Canyon unit, should work fine.



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  #104  
Old 12-01-2022, 10:51 PM
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There are other options.

Mitch at Swap Time says some run this without the VSS. If you are running a LT1 (2016-2022) and a transmission that does NOT have a VSS port some will ignore it and run a cable driven speedo - a customer of his was running a TH400 that way. The PCM likes to see a speed for whatever reasons it has.

Option "B" would be this:



This also is a 2015-2019 Canyon unit - I do not know what/why they are different.
Being longer and narrower may make this a better choice - not sure on connector availability... but it looks like no trimming of the sensor is needed - just a sleeve.

Option "C" is what I should have done first, which would be to call Holley (where I bought it) and see what they say.

Option "D" is Dakota Digital's pass thru VSS. Essentially you put this little widget between the trans and speedo cable. Neat. According to the DD tech it only generates a 8k/mile signal - not what the PCM is looking for, but if not used for speedo calibration no issue and it may work there too anyway (yes Mr. PCM I have reaaaallly tall gears... why do you ask?).


  #105  
Old 12-02-2022, 06:06 PM
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A call to Holley tech shows they have nothing that would solve this issue.

  #106  
Old 12-24-2022, 08:09 PM
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Airbox time.

The previous engine was treated to functional cold air. Originally this was a cure to the marginal pinging of my 462/96 heads combo ala Jim Hand.

I wanted to keep it - if it is there, it better not be fake. I had a cross-plenum made earlier in a shop from an AutoCad drawing. It spans the under side of the hood and form a plenum under the holes fed from scoops. A hole will be cut later matching the airbox.



This in turn will mate up with an airbox mounted on the inner fender with foam seals. It will hold a filter and then feed the 3-1/2" diamter tube feeding the engine. 6.2's have 4" inlets, much more common than 3-1/2".

Fabbing the airbox. I had a shop cut/brake it up, but the drawing was old and needed to be shortend. 20 gauge cold rolled steel.
The tube is an intake for a vapor separator from the crankcase/PCV.



Mounted up:


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  #107  
Old 12-25-2022, 09:22 AM
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Nice work! I have been thinking about possible cold air solution for my retrofit. My intake air temps are high. Temp was 135-145ish when it was still hot out.

  #108  
Old 01-02-2023, 12:33 AM
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Obrigado - the box seems to fit well and will go to paint along with a few other parts.

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  #109  
Old 01-03-2023, 09:05 PM
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GM in their LT1 crate motor instruction sheet notes that you must prime the oil pump. I took out the spark plugs to make the turning easier and jumped the starter wire - 30 seconds and noting on the dash gauge.

Mnnh.

I took out one of the plugs in the oil sender block and plumbed in a mechanical gauge and tried again. Another 30 seconds and nothing. Waited a minute and tried again. 15 seconds into it and the started slows a bit and the needle starts to quiver then climbs to 60 psi. whew! I was not looking forward to tearing into that.

I was also greeted by a small pool of oil on the floor - now what?

Evidently the O-ring was nicked, so a quick replacement and then test again tomorrow.


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Last edited by Scarebird; 01-03-2023 at 09:20 PM.
  #110  
Old 01-04-2023, 07:06 PM
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Update: it was more than the O-ring.

The block ports are offset to the mounting bolts, and I had it on backwards; about a 1/2" shift so...






  #111  
Old 01-14-2023, 12:19 AM
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DTried to start it for the first time yesterday - no go.

I was getting spark, and fuel to the high pressure pump. Called Mitch at Swap Time to see what the usual suspects are:

1. Ignition feed cutting out when starting

2. Wrong fuel rail pressure sensor

A quick scan for codes showed 2 errors; oil pressure and fuel pressure. The engine harness is for a 2016. Some minor differences cropped up - this one being the injector harness has a 3 wire rail pressure sensor while the engine harness needs 4. I ordered a new 4 wire rail harness and sensor - should be here late next week.

Not worried about the oil pressure - I cranked it minus spark plugs until pressure built up with a mechanical gauge. Probably do this again to reprime the motor before trying again once the new kit is installed.

Another minor issue were the intake tube clamps supplied - they were a skooch too small and a real bugger to install. Some simple hose clamps are not as pretty but work well.


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Last edited by Scarebird; 01-14-2023 at 12:25 AM.
  #112  
Old 01-18-2023, 07:24 PM
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She runs.

The LT1 cam gives her a nasty little growl.

  #113  
Old 01-18-2023, 09:42 PM
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Great work! Hopefully you can post a video where we can hear it too.

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  #114  
Old 01-19-2023, 05:40 PM
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see if this works...

https://youtu.be/wIzaD6zvI9c


  #115  
Old 01-19-2023, 05:55 PM
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Nice! Keep up the good work

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  #116  
Old 01-19-2023, 06:45 PM
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Obrigado.

I drove it about the patch a bit - you can tell it is 200 pounds lighter off the nose.

Not quite as much very low torque but it is giving 2+ liters to the old 440 - midrange seems a good pull - have not got on it.

Need to sort out how to get the tach to work...

  #117  
Old 01-21-2023, 05:43 PM
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Punch list has a few items to resolve:

1. Gas pedal too close to brake, sneakers catch brake pedal
2. Brake light switch keeps sliding out of adjustment.
3. Spare tire too small to fit new front brakes*.
4. Other minor non-operational issues ie. console lid does not fit.

Exhaust note is weird, not the 18436572 stuff I am used to. The LS3 in the Trans Am has a cross flow muffler which must hide the note, as does the 2016 GMC. Transmission is superb - shifts far better than any Muncie and gear spread is quite nice!

Battery was weak- changed out from a 75 to a 78 series, mounted in the trunk.

*this may end up having to run a 5th full size wheel, tires are discontinued though...

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  #118  
Old 01-21-2023, 09:28 PM
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What trans. are you running. I've followed the whole thread but I'm too lazy to reread it...thanks.

  #119  
Old 01-22-2023, 12:06 AM
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lol - TKX with this gearset:

1ST: 3.27 / 2ND: 1.98 / 3RD: 1.34 / 4TH: 1.00 / 5TH: 0.72 / REV: 3.00

  #120  
Old 01-22-2023, 08:09 PM
gtospieg gtospieg is offline
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I'm thinking of using the same trans. and gearset in my current build...with a 2.56 rear. 5th gear will be about 1.84 to 1...pretty sure I wont be able to use 5th until I'm doing 80.

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