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#1
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Under dash metal
How is everyone cleaning and treating the underneath of the dash metal?
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Rob Jones 1968 GTO Convertable 2bbl 265hp |
#2
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Wire wheel or just POR it.
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#3
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If it's just got the typical dusty surface rust I give it a wire brushing with a toothbrush size wire brush and then use a rust converter on it. Converter works great on the uniform light rust usually found under the dash.
Strange they didn't paint that metal ... it's obvious on most cars that it was absolutely bare steel.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#4
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Are you talking about the painted lower dash?
Restoring it or maintaining the condition?
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#5
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Thank you for confirming my thoughts, I was going to use a wire wheel and POR. I'm going to assume that knowone has cut their dash out to clean.
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Rob Jones 1968 GTO Convertable 2bbl 265hp |
#6
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I took my dash out to have Just Dashes redo it. I used a wire wheel and cleaned it best I could, then used a rust converter paint on it prior to sending it out. Very happy with the results.
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#7
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How hard was it to take out?
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Rob Jones 1968 GTO Convertable 2bbl 265hp |
#8
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It's pretty basic removal. Takes me about 35-40 minutes but I have done it about 10 times. Probably take you an hour or more for first time. Easier with seats out so you don't have to contortion yourself under the dash. I have a word doc with photos and step by step instructions that I can't remember where I got it from. I just don't know how to post it here. If someone can let me know, I will post it. Or email me at: gpagency@aol.com and I will send it to you
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#9
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I must be really slow. I'm still trying to figure out what you guys are talking about. When you say dash do you mean instrument panel, the dash pad or the metal dash?
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#10
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I am assuming we are talking about the removable dash pad and unfinished metal behind it that is not covered. Not the metal structure that's welded to the car body and is not accessible unless the dash is removed or the instrument panel.
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The Following User Says Thank You to GregP For This Useful Post: | ||
#11
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I was thinking the metal structure that is part of the car ... I think the OP means the metal that is part of the padded dash.
Either way ... rust cleans up about the same way, one is just a lot more trouble than the other Also .. 68 or 69 and later would make a big difference.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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Quote:
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Rob Jones 1968 GTO Convertable 2bbl 265hp |
#13
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I'm talking about removing the metal structure of the dash. I would like to get that area really cleaned and protected. I know it welding and bolted to the body the firewall.
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Rob Jones 1968 GTO Convertable 2bbl 265hp |
The Following User Says Thank You to Little Bob For This Useful Post: | ||
#14
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You would have to remove the dash/pad to have proper access to it.
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#15
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Bob ... you have a 68 or 69? I assume 68 because later years the whole freakin structure seems to come out. I know what you mean, first time I laid on my back and looked up there I was a bit put off by all the rust.
It's not a huge deal to cut it out ... EXCEPT .. for the parts that attach to the upper dash metal that contains the VIN, radio grill etc. You can split it across the top edge that is hidden behind the padded dash and leave the upper metal section with the speaker grill etc. When welding it back in you have to make sure to space it to account for the kerf of whatever you used to make the cuts. I replaced all the lower metal on mine from a donor car because of radio hole damage, damage from where someone tried to steal a tach out of it etc. Figured it was easier than trying to patch up the old dash in place. Anyway, if it's just the dusty red surface rust, the dust brushes off pretty easy with a small wire brush, but it is tedious work on your back .... then blow it off with air and spray on some rust converter, it works real good on that kind of rust. If I was in your shoes and the rust wasn't heavy, I'd leave it in place and spend some time on my back. If it's heavily pitted .... that would be your call on removing the structure.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#16
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Quote:
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Rob Jones 1968 GTO Convertable 2bbl 265hp |
#17
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Basically just look for the shortest route between two points (that is covered by the padded dash) and cut there. I left the main braces to the kick panel area in place and made cuts in the area of the AC vents. It's really not connected by much when you get down to it.
Make some some marks to aid with proper alignment before you cut. Although probably not much of an issue when you are reusing what you cut out.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
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