[mels80ga]

I have used these gaskets before and have always got a little water in the oil with them. Is there anybody who can tell me how to seal these gaskets? Thanks.

Mel

[Jim Zeek]

i used them on my race motors and never had a problem with them. make sure all surfaces are flat. i torqued them then did a final retorque at finish spec just to be sure. never retorqued after i ran it.

[chiphead]

I've never had trouble getting 1016s to seal. Check head and deck surfaces for nicks and gouges between coolant passages and oil return holes. Check that you're using the correct head bolts, and they aren't bottoming out in the block. Have a fresh surface machined on the head and block decks to help sealing. Torque to spec using the correct criss-cross pattern.

The only way I've ever had trouble with a 1016 is blowing the fire ring between 3 and 5 due to detonation. Even then it didn't pass any water to the oil.

[mels80ga]

Thanks. I ran them on a 406 that only had the heads machined and that may have been the problem. I am going to try them on my 467 which has had both the deck and heads trued up so maybe I won't have a problem.

[T Syron]

I had a problem with a fresh 12-1 455 rebuild using 1016s. It was pulling water into the cylinders during initial start up. I took it apart to checked everything out and didn't find anything wrong. I had the heads resurfaced and put a new set of gaskets on.

I ran it though one heat cycle with no water in it. After it cooled down i added water and did not have anymore issues.

Tom Syron

[chiphead]

If you've got a fresh, smooth surface on both head and deck, you could run cometics. They've got less dead space than the 1016s, and are available in various thicknesses. They require a very smooth mating surface. 1016s typically seal where cometics won't.

I've also started using ARP head bolts instead of factory pieces.

[428ratkiller]

I allways coat the headgaskets with ultagray very thin coat heads and block . The machine shop says they do this to all the motors they assemble and they build some bad ass motors. They build alot of 900 hp sprint car motors if its good enough for them its works for me.

Originally Posted by mels80ga

I have used these gaskets before and have always got a little water in the oil with them. Is there anybody who can tell me how to seal these gaskets? Thanks.

Mel

[mels80ga]

Thanks for the tips guys, I've been in Germany since Feb. 27 and I am going home on Aug. 29. My motor is apart for a freshen up. I ran the cheap Fel Pro gaskets the first 100 passes. I took the motor down to take a look and all looked good so I am gonna put new bearings and gaskets and a new converter when i get home and hopefully get out to the track the next Fri. for some test n tune. I have a small 125 shot on the car also that I want to try on this motor when I can get the suspension dialed in. I never have got it to hook since i put the new motor and the 9" rear with 4.56 gears. I ran a best of 7.23 with a TCI pos converter on a 1.55 spinning 60'. So I think with some tuning and some new tires the car has high 6's on the motor in it. I can't wait to get back to the good ol USA!!!

[screamingchief]

There has been lots of discussion about this in the past,some guys use "copper coat" gasket sealant on the Fel Pro #1016 headgaskets,IIRC PDdude is one of them.

I'm sure there are some threads about this in the archives,a search should pull that info up.

HTH

Bret P.

[taff2]

I've used them on my 13-1 400 engine without any problems ,I do re-torque them the day after the initial warm up and then once or twice during the season.