[Keith Seymore]

Thank you for the follow up and for the photos.

K

[1967Tempest]

I looked at the wearherhead and Edelman bin. The guy said he used to carry the 90's buy hasn't in awhile. He did have a t but not in the size you need. I'll do some more looking

[64catalina]

I realized most guys don't really want to cut into sheet metal unless you have to.
For my tunnel vision it was the only way to hook up brake lines to distribution block.

Just think most people don't get to have this much fun. write check and cry in beer.....

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Any input on why I'm crashed hard into the wheel apron?

It looks to me like I need ports on the inboard side of the master cylinder.

K

What size ports are the Master?

[Jeffs64Cat]

Used everything the Op did. Had to persuade the fender to give a little but in the end it saw it my way. I hooked the front to the front and the rear to the rear. No testing yet as still rebuilding the Cat.

Thanks to the Op for the write up!!!

[RAM YAK II]

I have a 62Cat that I put Scarebirds front disc conversion on. My lines were hard into the inner fender too. My son found a Corvette MC with the proper lines, prop. valve and provisions to mount the prop. valve under the MC. That eliminated the problem. I'll have to dig the info out and pass it on. If I remember right it wasn't very expensive.

[Young Pontiac Guy]

Ramyak, did you come up with a. Part number?

I am doing a front disc brake conversion on my 62 Catalina. It currently has power drums and a single master cylinder. Want to get a new dual master cylinder and be nice to add a prop valve. Would a later Catalina with front disc and back drums setup work out ok? Any other suggestions?

Thank you,
Joel

[lilabner]

Just finished mine yesterday. Brakes feel better than ever. Used an AC Delco new cylinder from Rock Auto, and a dual diaphragm 8" Power Booster from Speedway, Black powder coated. Front port down to brake line block to front wheels, with the plug to the rear wheel hole, rear port to the rear brake line using the union. The Power Booster looks just like the one in the 61 factory manual for heavy duty brakes. I had to grind a little on the four booster mount holes as they were a little closer than the old booster, but not much. Also ground the center hole about a 32nd inch bigger. Pretty much did a copy of the first post.
The NAPA brake lines bend very easy. The new MC is very close to the inner fender and the horn relay/junction block. I moved the block up one bolt hole and put a 1/4 x 20 nut sert in the inner fender.
I have a higher pedal and after bleeding it's very solid. I don't need to even think about discs and I keep my 8 lugs.
Very satisfied. Hardest part was bending new lines so close to the inner fender.

parts used
9/16 x 18 IF male x 7/16 x 24 IF female adapter
1/2 x 20 IF male x 7/16 x 24 IF female adapter
7/16 x 24 IF female union
7/16 x 24 IF male plug for old M/C brake line port. I used the rear port in the brake line block for the new M/C front port
12" 1/4 brake line from NAPA- 7/16 brake fittings- from rear MC port to rear brake line with union. Cut line and flared.
20" 1/4 brake line from NAPA- 7/16 brake fittings- from front MC port to brake line block where rear brake line came out. Cut line and flared.
3/8" vac hose and 3/8" tee to Vac Tank.

Pics to follow when my computer agrees

[lilabner]

Here' the pics

[tom s]

A friend with a 62 Cat wants to do the dual deal.He cant do anything himself.He got a quote for a $1000 drive in drive out.Does that seem fair?Tom

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by tom s

A friend with a 62 Cat wants to do the dual deal.He cant do anything himself.He got a quote for a $1000 drive in drive out.Does that seem fair?Tom

To me that sounds expensive.. it only cost me about 150.00 in parts and my labor.

If he lived close I’d help him.

[tom s]

Jeff,he just want a drive in and drive out.He can afford it.I would guess labor is at least $90 a hour so was thinking that could be about right making brake lines and getting under the dash etc.Just checking if anyone actually had someone do the complete deal.Thanks,Tom

[Stuart]

Originally Posted by lilabner

Used an AC Delco new cylinder from Rock Auto, and a dual diaphragm 8" Power Booster from Speedway,

You should include part numbers and/or application for these parts as well, for future reference.

[lilabner]

Originally Posted by Stuart

You should include part numbers and/or application for these parts as well, for future reference.

Booster from Speedway.. PB8531PC $94.99 8" Dual Diaphragm
If I looked harder I could have found a dual side feed Master for a Corvette also.

New AC Delco Master from Rock Auto.... 18M1025 $86.79 for 67 Bonneville
I don't like rebuilt masters, been a mechanic for 60 years now.

from local hose shop..
4MI-Plug 1.45
BQ122RB adapter 1/2 x 20NF-7/16x24NS 8.00
BQ123RB adapter 9/19 x 18NF-7/16x24NF 9.65
4FI-4FI union 725369035 2.74

NAPA
813-5459 Brake line 12" 4.99
813-5460 Brake line 20" 5.99
9932 3/8 tee for booster and vac res 4.74
H-177 3/8 vac/fuel line for booster 4 ft 7.96

ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid ???
We have this fluid in our stock as we use it in early Porsches and have for about 40 years

[tom s]

How many hours do you think we're involved with getting all the parts together and installing everything including bending all lines etc etc.Tom

[lilabner]

Originally Posted by tom s

How many hours do you think we're involved with getting all the parts together and installing everything including bending all lines etc etc.Tom

It was really pretty easy work, except for getting this old spine under the dash a couple times. The lines bend pretty easy. I think they are a copper/steel alloy. I just made a couple close 90's then bent the rest by hand. Grinding the holes bigger for the bolt pattern was the biggest pain. I started with a drill but went to the shop for my die grinder. Then it was cake. I used the same clevis and with the new threaded rod coming out of the booster I now have a higher pedal. Of course I had to take my wife to lunch so she would help me bleed the system.
Total working time was about 4-5 hours..
I wasn't expecting the increase in braking to be as good as it turned out.
Six new nuts came with the booster also.
The hose shop and NAPA are close to my house. Used Amazon for the Master and direct to Speedway. Parts came in about 3-4 days.

Butch

[tom s]

So if a shop was charging say a average $100 a hour and had to figure out what would or would not work it would be a easy $1000?Tom

[lilabner]

Originally Posted by tom s

So if a shop was charging say a average $100 a hour and had to figure out what would or would not work it would be a easy $1000?Tom

I would say at least that..on an old classic. Profit is not a dirty word. Overhead is expensive. About 25 years ago a friend that also owned a shop asked me if I knew what my overhead was not counting any employees. I spent a few hours on a Saturday ciphering that. I was shocked to find out it was about $48.00 an hour just sitting in my chair with the doors locked. And that was 25 years ago.

[64gp4spd]

All, this thread is the Gift that keeps on giving.
Using NAPA Dual Master for 67-69 Pontiac Bonneville
for Manual Drum Brakes.

The original pushrod on the Single Master
was held into the rear of the master with a
snap ring. There is no provision for a snap ring
or clip to connect to dual master.
The push rod ball end fits into the bevel
of the new master but,

Question,
Is there a different rod that needs to be used
or will the brake pedal itself hold the rod in place?
Also, will it matter if I use the original 1/4 inch 64
Brake Lines , or do they need to be 3/16
like the 67-69?

Thanks

[1967Tempest]

you should be ok using the same rod and brake lines. Is the diameter of the new MC the same as the old one?? If so, the only think I would check is the prop valve to make sure you have the correct biasing.

The rod should be ok to stay on its own. IIRC, there might have been a cotter pin or a clip that holds the rod near the firewall.