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Old 08-05-2017, 08:38 PM
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I read some of the other topics I could find on here but none of them answered my specific question. I want to run efi on my new engine and I am looking at the holley sniper, the fitech, and the FAST. Which one are you using and why? What are your real world results? I plan on using it to control timing too so I sent my ready to run summit distributor back
And have mainly been looking at the holley sniper because you can get the unit the distributor and the tank from them kinda one stop shopping. I read a lot about rotor phasing but I'm not sure how that's accomplished. Which setup did you use? Which one has the least amount of wiring under the hood ruining the aesthetic of the engine? I will be running a MSD 6AL as well.

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Old 08-05-2017, 11:51 PM
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FiTech, because they were the game changer a couple of years ago with their features and price point. Now that others have followed their lead, there are other options.

I run the timing control feature with Jegs's version of the MSD pro billet 2 wire. I do this because I think computer timing control is new and cool, and I won't have to beat my noggin under the hood when I go to the track.

I don't have any sort of fanboy allegiance to FiTech, but I like it when a smaller player jumps in the game and can give big, bad Holley some competition. Competition works out for the consumer. If FiTech hadn't come along, we'd be held hostage by $2k+ FI systems. For that reason, I love FiTech.

The Holley stuff might have a few more features, but I am perfectly fine with the FiTech functionality for my Lemans project. If I do another build down the road, then I will keep an open mind.

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Old 08-06-2017, 12:07 AM
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Once you set the system up can you unplug the controller or does it have to be brought into the cabin somehow

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Old 08-06-2017, 03:34 AM
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FiTech has a handheld controller that runs off 2 small cables. One is a power lead, the other is a data cable. Both are small diameter, like < 1/4" diameter. Typical location for the handheld is in the cabin. You don't have to keep the handheld interface device connected for the system to run. But you have to connect the handheld interface to perform setup and tuning. I have mine in the cabin, with the cables fed through one of the holes in the firewall for AC. The FI computer is contained in the throttle body, so wiring is fairly discreet. Some non-FiTech systems need to have the computer inside the cabin, and need to run a fat cable through the firewall.

If you wanted, you could run all of your setup and tuning from the engine bay, and not run the cables through the firewall. Again, the system does not need the controller hooked up to function normally, but does need the handheld for setup/tuning.

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Old 08-06-2017, 04:17 AM
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The Dual Sync distributor from FAST is pretty easy to set up. Basically, you set #1 piston to approximately TDC on combustion stroke, drop the distributor in so the rotor is pointing close to #1, energize the power wire, turn the distributor until one LED (I forget if it is the red or green LED, the instructions are clear) lights, then turn some more until the other lights and tighten down the hold-down bolt. Once you start the motor, there is a "check timing" function. At that point you check the timing, and it should be 20BTDC. If it is off a little bit, you can adjust it electronically, or you can physically move the distributor to achieve the 20. I've done two of these, and it was simple.

The guys that make FITech also made RetroTek EFI. The systems look VERY much alike, but the RetroTek was not as easy to tune, and I don't think it self-tuned. They sold that system to Professional Products, and they have since abandoned it. Maybe FITech will turn out to be a good company, but they could also do like they did with their previous system and cash out, leaving owners with no tech support.

MSD is now owned by the same people that own Holley, so I would stay away from the MSD systems, as I would expect them to let Holley run the EFI business. The Holley Sniper system seems like the best deal, as long as it has the features you need. Holley also has Terminator, Dominator, Avenger, as well the Quick Fuel EFI systems - it gets a bit confusing about which system is best for what purposes.

FAST has drastically dropped their prices on their original EZ EFI, to be competitive with FITech and Sniper. They upgraded their handheld controller, now has color display. Upgraded the looks of their throttle body as well. They also now have a Sportsman Street version, that allows the system to be fine-tuned via laptop, as well as the self-tune feature - that is good for people with more radical cams, or people who just want to really fine-tune their motor. The biggest downside, IMHO, is that system does not offer timing control. The EZ 2.0 does control timing, and has other features as well - such as being E85 compatible, a cool nitrous function that will adjust AFR and timing, etc. But it cost about double what the original is now selling for. I've actually talked to some people in the know there, hoping that the 2.0 would get a price reduction as well, but it doesn't look like that is going to happen.

I found a chart that might be of use to you. It doesn't have every system, but has most: https://image.adam.automotive.com/f/...down-chart.pdf

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'67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust
  #6  
Old 08-06-2017, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squidward View Post
FiTech, because they were the game changer a couple of years ago with their features and price point. Now that others have followed their lead, there are other options.

I run the timing control feature with Jegs's version of the MSD pro billet 2 wire. I do this because I think computer timing control is new and cool, and I won't have to beat my noggin under the hood when I go to the track.

I don't have any sort of fanboy allegiance to FiTech, but I like it when a smaller player jumps in the game and can give big, bad Holley some competition. Competition works out for the consumer. If FiTech hadn't come along, we'd be held hostage by $2k+ FI systems. For that reason, I love FiTech.

The Holley stuff might have a few more features, but I am perfectly fine with the FiTech functionality for my Lemans project. If I do another build down the road, then I will keep an open mind.
I second...

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Old 08-06-2017, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post

I found a chart that might be of use to you. It doesn't have every system, but has most: https://image.adam.automotive.com/f/...down-chart.pdf
Lee -I'm not sure how many other mistakes in the chart but it indicates the Holly Sniper system has an optional/external fuel pressure regulator - the system has an integrated fuel pressure regulator (it's basically Holley's version of the Fitech GoEFI 600).

I know you didn't create the chart :-)
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  #8  
Old 08-06-2017, 12:00 PM
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Holley Dual Sync, Holley Sniper and MSD 6AL. Does my in tank fuel pump, runs my electric fans, controls timing and you can use their Can Bus set of gauges.. no more oil droplets on the carpeting

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Old 08-06-2017, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grivera View Post
Lee -I'm not sure how many other mistakes in the chart but it indicates the Holly Sniper system has an optional/external fuel pressure regulator - the system has an integrated fuel pressure regulator (it's basically Holley's version of the Fitech GoEFI 600).

I know you didn't create the chart :-)
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LOL, correct Will, not my chart! The EFI landscape is changing so quickly, it is difficult to keep track of what is current information. I recently talked with a higher-up person at Comp Cams, and he didn't realize that they are now offering the Sportsman version of their original EZ EFI. Pretty much any comparison or chart that is more than about 6 months old, is obsolete.

I'd like to find out how fast the various ECUs actually are. In talking with a FAST employee last year, he mentioned the EZ 2.0 is making 50 calculations a second. I have the impression that the original EZ system is not as quick, but have not found definite information.

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'73 T/A (clone). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 315rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'.

'67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust
  #10  
Old 08-06-2017, 08:59 PM
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This spring I did a lot of research between the fast, Holley sniper and fitech units. I ultimately decided on the fitech as it has a solid backing, excellent community support, and had the least amount of non-install or user issues. All 3 had crappy customer service through their respective suppliers. There is a couple support pages on Facebook for all 3 brands but The Fitech pages had the best support and knowledge base.

The biggest thing with any of them is the install. Don't rush it and make sure there are absolutely ZERO intake or exhaust leaks. Weld in an o2 bung or have someone else do it if your welds aren't up to par. Route all your wiring neatly and keep the install clean.

Fitech offers a fuel command center (FCC) but steer clear of that. They also offer an inline pump but it seems those don't last long. Spend the couple hundred extra and install an efi tank and in-tank electric pump. Holley partnered up with tanks inc and sells their tank/sender/pump as a package under the sniper name. You can still use it with the other brand's efi units.

My setup is as follows:

- Fitech 30002 non power adder efi
- Tanks Inc baffled efi tank
- walbro 255lph fuel pump
-an-8 feed line
-an-6 return line

Since my install I have about 1000 miles on my setup and love it. Driveability is excellent, noticeably more power throughout the entire rpm range, and my fuel economy greatly improved when I keep my foot out of it. I am not running timing control so I cannot help you there. My first 250 miles I did zero tuning with the handheld and let the computer learn my normal and hard driving. There were stumbles and a few minor tuning things but I wanted to let the fitech learn a while on its own. After the 250 miles I made some slight changes. Out of the box it seems to be setup for an auto car so I made some changes to fuel cut when I push my clutch in so it wouldn't want to die. I also had a pretty bad stumble upon fast accel. A little data-logging told me most of the changes that needed to be done. Made those changes and what s world of difference! My first 800ish miles I would keep the handheld on my lap to do continual monitoring of air fuel ratios, engine temps, etc, but as of lately I feel no need to do so and have the handheld disconnected and tucked into the glovebox.

I can't comment on the longevity of the unit as I have only had mine installed for a few months, but if something were to happen to it in say 3 years, I would not hesitate to order another Fitech. I have seen a lot of people reporting zero issues since install and having had installed them since they were first introduced, so we shall see.


My recommendation is to do some homework and read upon community forums such as this one or Facebook pages. BUT please keep in mind that the vast majority of people who post on all of those pages are the people having issues. Most people won't post on these boards once their install is done and successful. This makes all the units appear as though they are full of issues. Just food for thought.

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Old 08-06-2017, 10:20 PM
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I have run my FiTech for 2 years now with no issues. It starts every time and has never left me stranded. My system is an early run and still has the original programming on it. Although some have recommended it, I've never needed to update the software or anything like that.

Even with the non Power Adder models, you can get the ProCal software free from several of the owner groups which allows a graphics based tuning scheme via laptop. Everything needed to do that (except the laptop) is provided in the kit.

Several people have purchased windows based tablets, install the software, and run in as a live link in their vehicles.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the systems at this point, but I chose FiTech because they were new to the market and offering what has turned out to be a good product at literally half the price.

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Old 08-07-2017, 12:02 AM
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Ive got the FiTech Go EFI600 and tanks inc setup. Its worked great so far on both my mild 455 and my much more powerful new 433. I've used both an HEI and now a MSD 6AL and pro billet. What exactly do you want to know

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Old 08-07-2017, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO View Post
Ive got the FiTech Go EFI600 and tanks inc setup. Its worked great so far on both my mild 455 and my much more powerful new 433. I've used both an HEI and now a MSD 6AL and pro billet. What exactly do you want to know
I started with HEI, but had some surging at idle that I suspected was being caused by a poor vac advance adjustment. That's when I decided to get to my final ideal state and did the 2 wire distributor for timing control.

It's kinda funny that I learned a lot about conventional distributor operation during my quest for computer controlled timing.

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Old 09-02-2017, 05:23 PM
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I'm having an issue starting my engine- the FiTech is currently set up to control timing- black wire from 6-point connector to the NEG side of coil (blue wire not used). Orange wire to fuel pump; white wire to 12 V switched power; thick red wire direct to battery POS. I also have a 12 gauge wire from base of TB to battery NEG for ground.I have it connected to an 8563 Pro Billet dizzy that is locked out and it has the adjustable rotor static timed to 14 deg BTDC. The hand held coil setting is set to "VRCoil".

When I attempt to to start it, the fuel pump primes and then I turn to start position and it just cranks. The hand held is not registering any RPM. I have power at POS side of coil. The ECU to dizzy wire is connected and I don't know if this matters but the way the plug is configured the violet wire from ECU goes to the black wire from dizzy and the green wire from ECU goes to to the black/violet wire from dizzy. My coil is a Summit e-Core, fwiw.

It should be noted that my hood tach is also not picking up an RPM signal. I tried disconnecting it and cranking, still no RPM at hand held.

This distributor is brand new and used on dyno with a MSD 7 series box and a carb, so it worked then.

Can anyone here using timing control check if the hand held registers RPM when cranking?

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‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears (Traded)
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Old 09-02-2017, 05:36 PM
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How is the wiring to the ignition box? That distributor requires a box, I believe (such as the 7-series at the dyno).

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'73 T/A (clone). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 315rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'.

'67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust
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Old 09-02-2017, 05:43 PM
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A box is optional as the FiTech has the ability to control timing- stand alone.

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'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears (Traded)
'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:16 PM
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If it doesn't register a RPM signal then it won't turn on the fuel pump. I just read about this same prob the other day( just wish I could remember what the fix is). Seems like it might have been one of the components went bad( not really sure). I think it might have been on the Holley EFI forum.

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Old 09-02-2017, 07:20 PM
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The fuel pump comes on for the prime and then cuts off, this is prior to cranking the starter.

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'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears (Traded)
'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:20 PM
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Are you using an MSD/ignition box?

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Old 09-02-2017, 07:46 PM
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if you are not getting a tach signal while cranking, its the pick up in the distributor. i have been through that before. while talking to FITech they say you should have tach while cranking.

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