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#1
05-12-2007, 12:06 AM
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Customizing stock rims.
Has anyone tried cutting the centers off the Rally II rims and offset them and rewelded ? Im thinking that if you cut them off and tacked them on and then mounted them on your hub and let them spin to see when they are true then fully weld back on should work. Anyone?
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#2
05-12-2007, 09:05 AM
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Stockton wheel will do this for you if you send them your wheels. A friend had this done for his full size.
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65 Lemans Street Car - 521, T400, 3.70 9". 10.13 @ 135. 3770 lbs. Drag Week ‘14, ‘15, ‘17 63 Lemans Race Car- 8.81 @ 151, 5.60 @ 123(SOLD) 67 Bonneville ragtop 74 Firebird - 455, e heads, TK0600 in process |
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#3
05-12-2007, 10:21 AM
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i would rather have someone do it for me becuase even if you could get it pretty true it would probably take a bunch of weight to balance out
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#4
05-12-2007, 10:34 AM
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It is a bigger job than you might think. All Rally II that I have seen the center and the wheel shell are welded with BIG spot welds. You have to drill them out to seperate the two. So then what do you have? BIG holes drilled in your shell.
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#5
05-13-2007, 01:24 AM
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Holes are easy to fill and as far as weight, if you drill and reweld, you are just replacing metal. Even if you added a bit or not enough, it wouldnt be to hard to compensate with lead weights. As far as truing, I think with a dial caliper at the bead and mounted on the hub should be as accurate as you could get. Ive done lots of metal fabbing and removing welds and rewelding is pretty simplistic. just like cutting and rewelding spring perches on rear ends, you have big plug welds and welded beads to contend with. Ive done 6 of these spring perch swaps without any problems. I hear the centers are pressed in so after grinding and drilling, I think just tapping the spokes out to where they need to be and then tack, recheck trueness and then weld away. I will look and see how much work it will be to do this and see if it may just come to using 15X7s and a smaller tire. I dont want air shocks or a jacked up rear end. I like fat and low.
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#6
05-24-2007, 02:15 AM
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Steve,
Here is a tech post on how a ford wheel is reversed at Rally America. The process is similar to what you need to do. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=154186 Dave |
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#7
05-24-2007, 11:32 PM
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Thanks sooooo much Goatman. I frequent Jalopy Journal Hamb site frequently. I cant believe I didnt check it out there as there are so many custom fabricators on that site. I cant believe some of these back yard builders projects and what they create.
Thanks again. Looks very do'able. |
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#8
05-24-2007, 11:37 PM
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HAMB is the cat's ass far as fabbing goes...
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#9
05-25-2007, 01:36 AM
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Scarebird, we will have to hook up some day. Im just down the road. I have alot of Buddys that are also on this site. Some of these guys are building $1,000,000.00 .!!! Yes One Million dollar street rods.
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#10
05-29-2007, 03:50 PM
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I had a set of Rally II's done for my (now DECEASED) 69 Buick Sport Wagon 400 at Bolton wheel in Ca... They cost me about $80 each in chrome. I just gave them the cores and they did the rest... Oh yeah, they were 15x8 fronts and 15x10 rears...
Here is a picture of the finished 7 year daily driver project and its ultimate demise... RIP...  
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BIG DADDY P 66 CATALINA COUPE GO BIG OR GO HOME!!! 
Last edited by obnxshz; 07-21-2013 at 11:33 AM. |
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#11
05-30-2007, 12:51 AM
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I just had a pair of wheels done at a tire store that used to do this a lot years back. The first thing that they did was put the wheel on a large lathe and cut the weld of the back side that holds the center and outer shell together, similar to cutting/surfacing a brake drum. Then they use a really large hydraulic press to push out the center, really tight fit. Clean the center and hydraulic press the center into a new shell, adjust for backspacing. Put back on the lathe and check for run out with dial gauge. Looked really good within .005. Flipped over and welded around . One was done in sections to hold without overheating. The other was welded all the way around quickly and both were cooled. Well the bad news is that both were of by as much as .020. When you see that at the end of a 28 inch tire, it wobbles. I believe that the problem is that when welding that much metal warping will occur unless both pieces are held in a fixture. That's my guess, if an expert knows different I would like to hear about it.
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#12
05-30-2007, 02:04 PM
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The wheels I got were done and held in fixtures and had no issues with runout... Although one rim did say made in japan on it..
__________________
BIG DADDY P 66 CATALINA COUPE GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!
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#13
05-30-2007, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Thanks, I found them. Last edited by turbogta; 05-30-2007 at 11:56 PM. |
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