[Shadowjack]

As far as adding that inch and 3/8ths bar, the stiffness of a torsion spring is calculated to the fourth power of the diameter times a coefficient. I figure the new bar will be four and half times stiffer than the original bar, so that's like having REAL heavy springs if only one wheel hits a bump.

[speedshopmike]

the deal w/ equal sized bars on a bodies is simple.
they understeer like pigs, so a huge rear bar helps that.
most of the reason they understeer is the ****ty fornt end geometry.
if we limit wheel travel with treetrunk bars, the car sticks better.
most of the time the springs are so soft they still ride ok; ive sold bunches of those bars of the years.

[crkoester]

Robert:

Ditto to that, it does seem to be kind of oxymoronic. But I would guess it just gives a more comfortable middle ground - better handling than no sway bar, but not as rough as with a stiff, unsprung bar.

I guess the alternative would be somebody coming up with a stretchy, bendy sway bar. How about a titanium bar, maybe even with a big coil right in the middle of it? Maybe the car would make a cool "boioioioioioing" sound every time you clipped a curb or hit a pothole?




Chris

[dtpontiac]

Incase I need to lube my bushings....In order to remove the inner sleeve on the control arm Poly bushings, can this be done with the control arms in place? I mean, can i just remove the bolts & tap out the inner sleeve or does the Control arm need to be removed and have bushing pressed back out of the control arms altogether?

[dtpontiac]

KEN CROCIE, You are the MAN! My lower control arm bolts were too tight. I flipped the cupped washers around and loosened the control arm bolts on the uppers too. I got my radiator back and installed it today. Took the Goat out for a testdrive and it FLOATS LIKE A BUTTERFLY AND STINGS LIKE A BEE!
I cruised over some RR Tracks and its like night & day. What a difference. What a pleasure to drive now. I can't thank you guys enough.
I actually test drove it without the front sway bar on. So my springs & shocks are fine. I'll re-install the front sway bar once my ADDCO adjustable Endlinks arrive. I think that will make a HUGE difference. MANY Thanks to Ken Crocie, speedshopmike, Shadowjack, all who gave me GREAT advise. This Forum ROCKS!
DT

[Bad Karma]

All I will add is I had the same issue with my first build and it was because it was torqued while off the ground. DONT GET IT ALIGNED UNTIL YOU HAVE IT Loosened and tourqued while on the GROUND. I didnt know anybetter and they ripped my brand new polygraphite bushing out of the A ARM while they "tried" to align it. Expensive mistake and cost me 17 hours labor {my own time back then} just to redo the front end the first time. Once it was done right it rode great. I tossed the kyb shock because they were to rough. Recently I had a hotchkiss rear boxed suspension package installed with moog heavy duty springs in my 72 lemans. Car improved 100% in handling and ride. Next thing I will be getting done will be the front end rebuild and disc brake conversion. I will be using polygraphite again. Its awsome when installed and lubed properly.

[GoatGlider]

Originally Posted by dtpontiac

...and loosened the control arm bolts on the uppers too.

the bolts at the upper control arm must be tight and locked. they will turn out when loose. nothing holds them but the tension from tightening.

the upper control arm is designed to be loaded by tightening those bolts so it cannot travel for- or backwards.

when using polys, you must lube under the washers.

i once lost one of those bolts. the control arm will then travel on that side, the other side will push out the bushing, after a while it will hit the fenders opening, last chance to notice. and then... slip off?

however: when installing the control arms with new poly bushings, one should be able to move them up and down by hand. if you can do so, they will not bind when moved by more than 500lbs of the cars weight. to compare try to push the shock together by hand.

a good idea is to change just one thing at a time and then try. if you like it harder, then try the next.

[dtpontiac]

A little lock tight on the threads should do the trick. Thanks

[KEN CROCIE]

U can tighten the upper control arm bolts to spec. with the washers turned around, the washer clamps only the inner sleeve.BTW I'm working on some new suspension stuff for the A bodies. Code name "accu-glide"

[Silver Judge]

Originally Posted by KEN CROCIE

U can tighten the upper control arm bolts to spec. with the washers turned around, the washer clamps only the inner sleeve.BTW I'm working on some new suspension stuff for the A bodies. Code name "accu-glide"

What is the accuglide Ken >?
Us A-Body guys need to know these things, would you be working on U/L control arms for the front suspension ?

[KEN CROCIE]

front U&L and rear U&L

[Silver Judge]

Great news, Let us know more about this ASAP so we don't go spending our money for these things in the wrong places

Do your rear trailing arms work with the massive 1 3/8 bar ?

[KEN CROCIE]

SJ-They better!!!