[white shadow]

Im adjusting my valves on my car its has eheads w/roland rockers,poly locks ive done the procedure by bill boyle my question is after my final torgue 1/2 turn will i still be able to move pushrod by hand? Thanks

[screamingchief]

I've found that method of adjustment (PSP) about the least reliable method out there,unless he's changed the method on his site recently that is.

It does'nt work for all cams,in particular it does'nt work well for "bigger" cams,JMO.

That said,if the hydraulic lifters are'nt pumped up and full of oil,yes,often you can still spin the pushrods between your fingers even after setting the 1/2 turn of pre-load on the lifters.

But when the lifters are pumped up and full of oil,no,the pushrods should be much harder to spin between your fingers when the pre-load is set to the same 1/2 turn.

When the lifters are pumped up and full of oil,they will take time to bleed back down and release the tension against the valvetrain,then you can once again feel a bit less tension in the assembly as a whole,similar to the "feel" they have when the lifters dont have any oil in them.

What your really feeling for during adjustment is the change in the tension as you take up the slack in the valvetrain,the pushrod will become noticably harder to spin between your fingers as the pre-load is applied to the lifter in either case.

Also,either way,there should be no "slack" in the adjustment to speak of...

HTH.

[Schurkey]

If you have hydraulic lifters and the low-friction "polylocks" this becomes very easy. Tighten the nuts WITH YOUR FINGERS; you'll easily feel when the lash is gone and you've started to compress the (fairly light) springs in the lifter bodies.

If you use a wrench, or if you have high-friction stock-style crimped nuts, you lose the ability to "feel" when the lifter begins to compress.

Once the lash is gone, add most but not all of your preload, snug but don't torque the set screw, and then turn the polylock AND the set screw the rest of the way to achieving your preload. The final tightening after you've snugged the set screw may be less than or about one flat (60 degrees of rotation) For me, it seems to be about 1/2 of one flat--about 30 degrees. Kinda depends on how snug you get the set screw...

[white shadow]

Thanks guys but are the pushrods still supposed to be able to spin fairly easy or is there considerable stiffness? put it this way if you cant move them is that too tight? just gotta ask

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by white shadow

Thanks guys but are the pushrods still supposed to be able to spin fairly easy or is there considerable stiffness? put it this way if you cant move them is that too tight? just gotta ask

How strong are your fingers? How oily are the pushrods? I don't seem to have any trouble spinning pushrods when the cam is on the base circle. By the time I "can't move them" it's because the lifter has been collapsed from too much preload.

1. As said; if you have low-friction nuts, turn the nuts with your fingers and you can easily feel when the lash is gone.

2. If you adjust the preload BEFORE you install the intake manifold, you can WATCH the lifter plunger as the preload is applied.

3. If the engine will run, do the adjustment with the engine hot and running.

[white shadow]

Ok got it done and she runs incredible thank you guys for all the help just cant wait to get my carb from cliff then she should really be insane. Thanks again

[captain42082]

DO YOU USE THE SAME PROCEDURE FOR RHODES LIFTERS OR A DIFFERENT APPROACH??

[screamingchief]

Originally Posted by captain42082

DO YOU USE THE SAME PROCEDURE FOR RHODES LIFTERS OR A DIFFERENT APPROACH??

Nope,it's not the same method.

Follow the instructions that they (Rhoads) provide with their lifters.

It also helps a bunch if you can see the lifters easily the first time or two you adjust them with Rhoads lifters,so you may wanna adjust them before throwing the valley pan and intake back on the first time.

HTH.