[JSchmitz]

How about rust converters, etc.? I have some minor rust that I need to deal with before I insulate. Wire wheel and then etching primer? Eastwood makes some rust treatment products.

[Entropy11]

Are you guys doing this insulation on the floors and then using just a standard non-backed carpet? I like to use the mass-backed molded carpet to kill noise but it’s so thick I don’t know if I’d want to add more under it.

The only rust treatment I trust is Ospho and SPI Epoxy Primer following the SPI instructions.

[dataway]

Yep I'm a little concerned about the thickness of the layers. I figure the 80mil Noico is about the same, a bit less than the OEM tar stuff. Then at least 1/4" of the Thermozite, and I planned on using the backed carpet too.

Figure I could taper them off before they get to the door sills so no real problem there, but under the console, seat belt bolts etc. might get kind of tight.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Entropy11

Are you guys doing this insulation on the floors and then using just a standard non-backed carpet? I like to use the mass-backed molded carpet to kill noise but it’s so thick I don’t know if I’d want to add more under it.

The only rust treatment I trust is Ospho and SPI Epoxy Primer following the SPI instructions.

I just ordered some Ospho. Thanks for the tip! I've used similar products before (Rust Mort). Looks like the same stuff.

[dataway]

On a product with a single foil face, would the foil go towards the heat source? That would probably be the outside since I won't be doing much winter driving.

I know the Noico stuff has to go foil to the inside cause of the adhesive, what about the Thermozite?

[dhutton]

For me it depends on where it’s going. Floors foil up because I feel it’s a better surface to mate with the carpet. Roof foil up because I feel it gives a better glue bond to keep it from falling down.

Don

[dataway]

When doing the floor ... I'm hesitant to put the wiring under the Noico, but it does seem like it should go under the Thermozite.

How did you handle that, and did you use adhesive to bond the Thermozite to the top of the Noico?

Thanks

[dhutton]

I have used both DAP Landau adhesive and 3M 77 spray adhesive with good results. The 3M 77 is more convenient.

Don

[dataway]

You know, as I'm installing this Noico I'm thinking what a total pain it's going to be to remove someday, this stuff sticks very very well. Specially when I put it on the inside of body cavities like below the quarter glass .. would be no fun at all if body work needed to be done on the outside that required any welding, it would have to be somehow removed from the inside first.

I'm covering most of the panel behind the rear seat also ... I notice while tapping on it that it's like a drum, it must produce a ton of the inside noise.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by dataway

You know, as I'm installing this Noico I'm thinking what a total pain it's going to be to remove someday, this stuff sticks very very well. Specially when I put it on the inside of body cavities like below the quarter glass .. would be no fun at all if body work needed to be done on the outside that required any welding, it would have to be somehow removed from the inside first.

I'm covering most of the panel behind the rear seat also ... I notice while tapping on it that it's like a drum, it must produce a ton of the inside noise.

Can you post some pics?

[dataway]

Yep, I'll post some pics tomorrow of my bizarre patchwork of Noico

[dataway]

Here is a photo of the process so far ... sorry it's kind of busy, got a lot going on in there right now.

Probably not the right way, but I sit in there with a sheetrock knife, some scissors and a heat gun and cut various smallish pieces to fit and roll them on. I can tell that the first hot summer day this stuff is going to be on there so good I'd have to scrape it off with a razor blade.

[dataway]

Are any of you guys using Noico on the package shelf? Seems to me from all my tap tap tap experiments that a huge source of noise is the rear seat back and package shelf.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by dataway

Are any of you guys using Noico on the package shelf? Seems to me from all my tap tap tap experiments that a huge source of noise is the rear seat back and package shelf.

Yes. And cover it with Thermozite. Will reduce cabin noise considerably.

Don

[dataway]

Thank you. I have some "package shelf insulation" I ordered with the new package shelf, wasn't expensive so maybe I'll replace that with the Thermozite which I'm sure has better thermal properties.

[TacoTownCharlie]

I think you and I have made the same progress. I’m using Killmat 80 mil on the metal and I will cover that with Boommat under carpet layer.

With the Killmat for noise/vibration you don’t have to cover every square inch. Just look for flat areas and cover the middle. Curved areas do not vibrate as easily so it is not as important to cover those areas.

There is no right or wrong way to cover; the only mistake is to not clean/prep and not rolling the material down to get good adhesion.






I also used a few strips to control water around the floor vents in my 78 Trans Am. I was able to test with a hose and the dam seems to work.

Good Luck


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[dataway]

Yep I noticed while installing by tapping things ... no every square inch doesn't have to be covered, just the areas that flex enough to act like a drum. For sound a person could probably use half the product and have the same results. For insulation, might help to have more, but I think the top layer (like Boom mat) does more for insulation.

[dataway]

Just finished the package shelf .... astounding difference ... went from sounding like banging on a garbage can lid to almost complete silence.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by TacoTownCharlie

I think you and I have made the same progress. I’m using Killmat 80 mil on the metal and I will cover that with Boommat under carpet layer.

With the Killmat for noise/vibration you don’t have to cover every square inch. Just look for flat areas and cover the middle. Curved areas do not vibrate as easily so it is not as important to cover those areas.

There is no right or wrong way to cover; the only mistake is to not clean/prep and not rolling the material down to get good adhesion.






I also used a few strips to control water around the floor vents in my 78 Trans Am. I was able to test with a hose and the dam seems to work.

Good Luck


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The floor vent areas you MUST your a bunch of thick caulk or it WILL leak, even from a car wash, by hand. 100 or more hours fixing these on customers cars and my own.

[dataway]

Formula ... could you be more specific about where the vent needs extra sealant?

Is it to prevent water from running into the interior when the body cavity gets filled up? Or down where the vent wall meets the floor?

Like most 68's mine had some damage in that area ... looked like it was because there was no drain in that cavity ... but then an open drain hole would short circuit some of the air flow it seems like. Would it be smart to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the cavity?