I'm seriously considering a complete rebuild of the front suspension on my '66 convertible.

So far, the front brakes were replaced with disc the car has new springs all around. I recently installed a new quick ratio steering box.

So - I think I want to do a rebuild. I've never done anything this extensive - but I consider myself able and mechanically inclined.

First question: What is involved? I guess I will end up replacing all of the bushings (control arm, etc) so I'll have to remove the springs, etc.

Second question: should I do this myself?

Third: What to purchase? I've seen complete rebuild kits from some of the resto shops - they look tempting. Should I go with one? If so, which one (moog?)? Front sway bar? What dia.? What kind of bushings? I drive (or want to drive) this car often - and I want a good suspension package but don't want to go overboard.

Fourth: apart from the usual tools (and first aid kit), what specialty tools will I need (I know I'll need a spring compressor)?

When removing the front springs, I've seen some posts on this board re: putting a chain around the spring in case it breaks loose when removing - good idea?

Last: any good source for a soup to nuts description of the remove / replace process?

I've not been on this board long, but from what I've read, there are quite a few very talented people on this board - and I'd appreciate all opinions.

Thanks.
-Dan

I'm seriously considering a complete rebuild of the front suspension on my '66 convertible.

So far, the front brakes were replaced with disc the car has new springs all around. I recently installed a new quick ratio steering box.

So - I think I want to do a rebuild. I've never done anything this extensive - but I consider myself able and mechanically inclined.

First question: What is involved? I guess I will end up replacing all of the bushings (control arm, etc) so I'll have to remove the springs, etc.

Second question: should I do this myself?

Third: What to purchase? I've seen complete rebuild kits from some of the resto shops - they look tempting. Should I go with one? If so, which one (moog?)? Front sway bar? What dia.? What kind of bushings? I drive (or want to drive) this car often - and I want a good suspension package but don't want to go overboard.

Fourth: apart from the usual tools (and first aid kit), what specialty tools will I need (I know I'll need a spring compressor)?

When removing the front springs, I've seen some posts on this board re: putting a chain around the spring in case it breaks loose when removing - good idea?

Last: any good source for a soup to nuts description of the remove / replace process?

I've not been on this board long, but from what I've read, there are quite a few very talented people on this board - and I'd appreciate all opinions.

Thanks.
-Dan

[engineer]

best to do a search, as this topic has been covered to death. Next get the service manual for your car either paper or CD as the detail is very good, including procedures and pictures of various tools in use. You should already have a front sway bar installed, so match the bushings to the bar you have. Now if you want to change to other springs, bars, links, types of bushings control arms, shocks, I think it best to buy a complete changeover kit for the suspension, that way every thing has been matched. So far as stock suspension rebuilding kits, some pieces never wear out and others do, but if you do all, a kit price should be a better buy. Get name brand of course.

[Jim Doran]

Eastwood sells a video that is pretty good.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...&keyword=video

[goatseeker]

Dan,
Don't be afraid to tackle it yourself - if I could do it, I'm sure anyone can .
Ditto on the above sources - the correct service manual will pay for itself on this and any other work you do yourself. I've also heard the Eastwood tape is good, but I elected to fly by the seat of my pants .
I'd get everything from the same source if possible, I used PST and am happy with the pieces. Make sure you know whether you have the oval or round control arm bushings before you order.
Don't fool yourself into thinkng this is a two afternoon job by yourself - but you'll sure be happy you did it when you're finished.

I've got the service manual - gotta dust it off and take a look. Springs are brand new - Eaton - so I won't be replacing those but figure I need to remove them to do the job right. While I'm at it - everything gets cleaned and freshly painted.

I've read a few of the prior threads on rebuilds - thanks engineer - and it was helpful. Some questioned poly v rubber bushings - anyone have an updated opinion on the subject?

[mike nixon]

i'd use poly graphite bushings. they wear better and give a firmer feel to the ride.

as mentioned above use quality wearable parts[ tie rods/ ball joints/ ect].

mike

[David Jones]

Great site
I rebuilt mine from lots of searches on here and Classical. Took about 2 weeks working some evenings and what little spare time I have. If you have a floor jack and can get a spring compressor you can do it. I used a kit from Performance Suspension Compoments in Arizona. Moog and TRW stuff. Other brands also. Good prices and advice.

[Bill Eveland]

Pittburgh 64,Thanks for the dealer tech props,Its always nice to hear somebody appreciate a dealer tech.The old saying goes-you usually get what you pay for.
Anyway -I've done the suspension on my 66 and 68.On the drivers side the steering shaft will need to disconnected to remove the upper control arm.Mark the shim packs before you take your upper control arms off.I built both cars with moog ball joints and rubber bushings.
As far as the spring removal, I don't even use a spring compressor ,as long as your carefull, its not needed.Remove the shock and sway bar link and make sure the car is high enough so the lower control arm can swing down all the way.loosen the lower control arm bolts,lower the control arm down with a floor jack -even with the control arm hanging down the spring should stay in place and stick a prybar in at the bottom of the spring a pry it out of the control arm.If your not comfortable with this method -get a spring compressor.
If you don't have access to the proper tools take the control arms to a machine shop or an automotive shop can do this also.

If I decide to go with the floor jack - should I put a chain around the spring - so if it, for some reason, breaks loose, it won't fly across the garage?

I'll probably take the control arms to a shop - as I understand the new control arm bushings need to be pressed into the control arms. Is there anything else that needs to be done at a shop or is the rest of the work garden variety, knuckle scraping, car repair?

Also - if there's anyone around the Sacramento area that would like to see it done, or help , let me know and I'll have you over for burgers and beer.

[Bill Eveland]

Use the chain if you want, i never did , but i'm not the one working on it-whatever you need to feel safe.
The original ball joints are riveted on the upper control arm and pressed on the lower,if you joint have those tools to swap-have those replaced by your shop.
If you dont have a pickle fork to break apart the ball joints-try to hit the knuckle at the point of the ball joint to shock it loose.
Anything else is pretty stright forward.Bill

[goatseeker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> If I decide to go with the floor jack - should I put a chain around the spring - so if it, for some reason, breaks loose, it won't fly across the garage?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Depends on if you like your teeth the way they are currently arranged.

[Bill Eveland]

If you get a spring compressor that goes up thru the shock hole and has 4 clamps ,you shouldn't need a chain.It has a threaded rod in the middle and clamps down on the spring pretty good.Hope you have an impact wrenh to make things easier.

If by an impact wrench you mean the wrench impacting my hand against the control arm - I've got a box full!