[joes455]

Does anyone make one for a 13/16 remote adapter?thanks

[Sirrotica]

Do you understand you have to have a separate oil circuit dedicated to a by pass filter? Here is a schematic of the factory system and oil routing, and the by pass system runs a separate system that taps into the factory system, and then returns the finely filtered oil back to the oil pan.



It does not send oil the the internal oiled engine parts, it sends filtered the oil back to the oil pan. It must be restricted to slow the flow of oil through the by pass filter so it doesn't take pressure away from the factory system, and the full flow filter.

There is more to adding a by pass filter to a vehicle than just buying an adapter, screwing a by pass filter to it, and running hoses to it. The system only requires 1/4 inch ID hoses running to, and from it because it is has restricted flow, and low volume. The restriction is in the pressure side, or supply side of the circuit.

I just wanted you be aware of how the system works so you don't injure your engine.

I wasn't successful in finding any 13/16 16 by pass spin on filters in a quick search on the net, most were 3/4 inch. Not saying there isn't one, I just wasn't able to spend the time to find one, if there is one made.

[joes455]

Yep may have to use a step down bushing 13/16 to a 5/8 or 1/2 .I think baldwin sells a 1/2 by pass filter but at only 5mic 12 nominal.Amsoil look nice but they have a real screwy dummy proof bushing size so it can't be installed on a full flow mount

[Sirrotica]

Another member here has recently bought a NOS Amsoil filter off E Bay for under $100 and installed it on his fresh 467 build after losing a cam lobe on initial fire up. He was worried that he was going to recirculate the remnants of the cam/lifter carnage through the new engine, even after flushing the engine while installing the new cam and lifters.

I convinced him the only ways to stop that would to completely disassemble the complete engine, and clean each and every piece. Or install a by pass filter after the fresh install of cam and lifters, and flushing every thing he could while the engine was still in the car. He chose the by pass filter and has had zero problems since re-assembling the engine. Of course the stuff he wasn't able to remove from flushing while in the car was still in there, but the first pass through the by pass filter stopped it from recirculating continually, wearing all the new components in the engine. I might add he put a strong magnet of the bottom of the pan to further stop any ferrous particles from recirculating.

Even though I have replaced probably hundreds of stock cams and lifters over my time as a mechanic, anyone with a grain of sense knows you're not doing anything in the engine any good by not removing all the fine metallic solids from the engine due to the malfunction. Having spent near $10,000 on the initial build he wanted to do his best without removing the engine and paying to have it cleaned and re-assembled. I believe he was happy with what he chose to do to protect his investment.

There is no downside to having extreme finely filtered oil, and the cost of the filter setup will be paid back in saving just by not having to toss high dollar synthetics out just because the full flow filter is physically incapable of removing solids the oil. Removing the fine solids from the oil also extends the life of the additive package because it has no dirt to attach to, oil doesn't go bad sitting when it's clean. Eventually it does oxidize from heat and cool cycles, but again the deterioration is slowed dramatically when it's kept extremely clean.

Analysis from places like Blackstone labs confirm safely extended oil life when the oil is filtered to a high standard it can be run safely 5 times as long, and longer if you have it analyzed.

I love the freedom of not having to worry about exceeding the oil change intervals/OCI, and being able to change a by pass filter without getting under the car in about 5 minutes. Add to that savings of money, not having to get rid of drain oil as frequently, while adding seven fold to the life of the engine. SAE and GM have done 2 studies that confirm that filtering to a 10 micron standard over the 30-40 micron standard of a conventional filter add years and 100s of thousands of miles to an engines life.

If the engine is used, and you switch to by pass filtration you'll safely remove any varnish or sludge accumulated in the engine made up of the very fine particulate that a full flow filter cannot remove from the oil. The fine particulate is left behind after an oil change that settles in the recesses and low spots inside the engine. The fine particles that the standard filter can't remove, attract to each other, forming sludge inside of the engine. Anyone that's had their hands on the inside of an engine has seen this phenomenon. Even in well maintained engines you'll still get these chains of these solids forming in the low spots and recesses of an engine. They are abrasive, and will cause wear when left to recirculate through a full flow filter inside of any engine. The sludge is made up of the solids that can readily pass through the media of a conventional filter.

Just for grins I checked E bay, and there's a Amsoil remote standard filter and by pass combination on E Bay currently for a BIN price of $103: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMSOIL-By-P...QAAOSwA6heo6SA

Also a step by step article for installing Wix by pass filter base, and filter on a old chrysler 6 that never had filters on them from the factory, gives part numbers for both parts: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50622-inst...filter-photos/

And of course there are the Frantz filters that I use, and previously sold that use single ply TP under a buck for the media, if you can find a store in this day and age that has it.........LOL...................

I believe you'll be very happy with your by pass filter, no matter where it comes from.........