[Grant Miller]

I am not sure that I would need e-brakes. I've had my GTO since 1984 and don't think that I have ever applied it!!! That would save the $75 on cables, but what about calipers???? What would I use if I don't want the e-brake?? How much would they run??

[Scarebird]

We could make a set of brackets that would use 1982-92 F front calipers (cheap, and boneyards are full of them, as the 78-87 G's used them too, as well as the 2WD S-10's) and 79-81 WS6 rear rotors (around $35 each). This, with a pair of $15 brake hoses , a proper disc master and adj. prop valve and you are ready to stop!

You will of course need 15" rims for this, our other setup will tuck into 14" x 6 or bigger disc rims.

[pontiac_banshee]

I would like to hear more. I have had a number of cars in the past 25 years and used the emergency brake maybe three times maybe a dozen in my years since I was 16. I put it in park and leave it. When I had my Judge with a 4 speed I put it in revearse and that was it. Not many hills where I lived.

Three questions from you Scarebird

1.) Are your brackets cadmium plated? Saw some that were and some that weren't.
2.) Is your idea of building those brackets a possibility and if yes would they have the same kind of mount for the hose?
3.) If you did this what type of time frame would you be looking at?

$100 for calipers (loaded)

Maybe a mechanical valve under seat could be used as repro brake lines have a split in them anyways. press down on pedal turn switch????

[Scarebird]

Not really much to it, we just reconfigure some existing parts. We can zinc dichromate them no issue. No real time frome uncoated, could have them out Tuesday if needed Hosemount no issue), longer for zinc as it would wait for the next batch.

[herdsman]

I just finished the rear disc from Scarebird on our 65 GTO 12 bolt. I used 88 Firebird front calipers and 79-81 T/A rear rotors. It stops a lot better than drum/drum and disc/drum. I just have to figure out the P-valve adjustment.

[pontiac_banshee]

Was the 88 Caliper the one for disc rear or drum rear. Checked a local Autozone and each are different, at least in cost. The front caliper with rear drum version runs $20 and with rear discs runs $72.

[herdsman]

Drum rear. I went to the local salvage yard for the cores. $20 each then I turned them in to NAPA for cores. That sure beat paying $45 each with out exchange cores. I removed the cores myself so I know what car they came off from. I then told NAPA that I wanted the same ones.

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by pontiac_banshee

Was the 88 Caliper the one for disc rear or drum rear. Checked a local Autozone and each are different, at least in cost. The front caliper with rear drum version runs $20 and with rear discs runs $72.

1988 (88-92)was the first year of the 1LE package, which used Corvette PBR calipers front and rear among other things- hence the large price difference.

Herdsman- good to hear you liked the stoppage; please get that bias adjusted- it can really bite you in a panic stop.

[pontiac_banshee]

Herdsman - Now I am confused.

The drum rear caliper at an Autozone in our area is $20 which includes the price of having no core. I just want to be sure we are talking apples and apples here and don’t want to end up buying a caliper that wont fit the plate that we are talking about.

I went to the Napa site and got this for a 1988 Firebird.:
Caliper w/ Hdwr - L/Frt (Semi-Loaded) - Remfd
Item#: SDC2422032
Price: $16.99
Core: $22.00
This was there price for the drum rear. Can you give a part number so I can be sure we are on the same page. Seems NAPA has three different front calipers.
1.) Cheap (above) single Piston $39 without a core
2.) Single caliper Piston (Severe Duty) $96.50 without a core
3.) Double piston $118 without a core

Is the new plate work with all three or is it made for just one of these three configurations.

[pontiac_banshee]

Ok, I have made my decision and I will outline it here which may help someone that wants to make this conversion.

CHEAP (CHEAPER)

If you want to go without e-brakes and go cheaper go with a Scarebird mounts and 1988 Firebird drum calipers. Autozone sells the calipers (no pads) for about $20 which includes cores. You have to make the same kind of changes to your brake system as prop valve and master cylinder but for the rear end brake system it is cheaper.

MY Choice:

I choose to get a kit off eBay with a twist. The kits run $479 to $499 shipped. These are based on the Cadillac calipers but come with a limited lifetime warranty with free tech support. This kit has everything for the rear (upgrade - more $ for powder coated calipers and slotted/drilled rotors). You get custom length e-brake cables and rubber brake lines. You get everything you need for the job.

The twist in this - I am buying the Scarebird mounts as they are superior to the others I have seen (my opinion). They have an integrated tab for the brake hose and the "kits" off eBay have tabs that you need to weld to axle tubes. I intend to resell the mount from the "kit" on eBay to recoup some of the money. This is an extra step but I am doing it because their design is superior and the end product looks cleaner. Plus they seem to be nice guys and helped allot on this thread.

I will post pics here of my Firebird (Nova) 8.5 rear brake conversion.

[pontiac_banshee]

1 - Genuine GM - Drum/Disk Proportioning valve - NEW
2 - Genuine GM - Aluminum Drums - Excellent condition
2 - Backing Plates - Blasted and Painted
2 - Factory Identical (In-Line-Tube) Emergency Reproduction rear E-Brake cables
2 - Sets of all brake parts (shoes, springs, wheel cylinders, etc) mounted on backing plates
2- New rear axle brake lines (In-Line-Tube)

Would I get a better price braking (nice pun huh) these up or as a unit?

[pontiac_banshee]

Moved to order stage and had to alter things a bit due to a great eBay seller. Getting reman calipers, with e-brakes parts, bolts, pads, (loaded) for $140 shipped. Had to do change gears for that price.
Scarebird gets the nod for mounts.
Control Cable will get my order for brake cables (questimate) $75
Rear hoses from Local Autozone
Trying to decide on the $60 Autozone rotors or gettting a set off ebay that have the cool holes and slots.

Anyone have suggestions for best paint for calipers that will hold up and can be applied easily? As promised pictures will follow along with photos of my surgical change from 10 bolt rear to my clone 12 bolt with adapter (another ebay seller).

[pontiac_banshee]

Anyone have good luck with online rotors??? THere are a number of them on eBay but worried if they are slotted and holes and cheap China items than could be a BAD thing. THe $50 rotors from local stores are forged and not cast so they can be turned also.

Any good or bad ????

[Scarebird]

forged rotors? not sure on that... Grey iron rotors work fine, and cut down nice when need be. I would take a pass at cross-drilled rotors; they will crack.

[pontiac_banshee]

Here is a couple of pics to wet your interest. I am at the point where I need to have my axles modified OR may look at after market set if I can find someone who will turn down the flange to match the rotor before they ship. Getting quote of about $100 to turn the axles down (both). Does that sound about right?

Hey what you think of my Nova 10 bolt - 8.5 with 4:10 gear set.


MORE TO COME IN FIRST PART OF SEPTEMBER FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN THE DISC CONVERSION.

[tempest455]

Why do you have to turn down the flange?

[pontiac_banshee]

They are to big to fit into the rotor. What are see in the picture is it sitting outside the hole that it needs to fit in. The bracket mfg recommends getting longer wheel studs to make up the difference between the thickness of drum and rotor also.

I have the measurements somewhere but not handy. You can see by the pic how they cover the whole hole! I think they have to have 5/16 shaved off (diameter that is). Will get exact figures.


List of parts and who I got them from coming in next post. Give them their plugs as I think they have the best product out there.

[Scarebird]

100 bux? you're being hosed unless they are including new studs pressed in.

[pontiac_banshee]

The problem is I got the estimate from a crankshaft shop and I am sure their hourly rate is higher. I have made a lot of calls to find a machine shop including two shops that build most of the race car engines in this area and everyone sends this type of stuff out to be done. I have one more lead but other than that I end up paying $30 for shipping to get it somewhere else. I find it hard to believe that none of the machine shops in this area cant handle it but each that I called don't have the lathe that would work.

Any one from Green Bay Fox Valley that sees this would appreciate any info.

Thanks

[Scarebird]

Try a non-automotive machine shop, or a rod builder- most are more reasonable on this.