[anewtoi]

finished bolting in a jeep box into my 68 lemans today. filled the pump with what little fluid i had on the shelf and still feels really tight and i can hear the pump whining. fluid level was just below the line that reads "cold" on the dipstick. hoping tomorow when i get some more fluid and a new bolt for the sway bar bracket that i broke the head off of , all will work well. fingers (and toes )crossed.

[Kell]

You need to bleed the air out of the system. You will need to jack the front wheels off the ground, and while the engine is running, go full lock to lock slowly SEVERAL times, it takes quite a while to get all the air out. The fluid will appear foamy.

I did not know this at first and thought something was wrong when I installed mine.

good luck!
Kelly

[anewtoi]

thanks kell. worked like a charm. finished getting the tie rods back lined up properly and got the chance to drive it today. really noticeable difference. no more sluggo in the wheel. nice and responsive. only thing is i misaligned the steering wheel and now instead of the bottom of the 3 bars on the steering wheel being at 6 o'clock, its now at about 3:30(. anyone with any suggestions? now im on to suspension stuff. I ordered a 1 1/4" sway bar with polyerathane bushings and end links today. i had all the other front end stuff changed 2 years ago minus center link and springs. we'll see how this goes.

[pont3]

Okay, I'm listening and curious about this swap. My biggest question is, are you comparing the Jeep box to a worn out zillion mile original? Or are you comparing it to a properly rebuilt original? The reason I ask is that I had the ORIGINAL box rebuilt for my '72 GTO and it was like night and day, no slop, great, tight handling. So my question is, does this jeep box have some inherent upgrade that can't be attained by rebuilding the original box? I know certain older years had ratios that required 3.5 to 4 turns lock to lock, but the later cars required as little a 2.5.

ANEWTOI, were all the components "straight ahead" when you installed the box? Perhaps the pitman arm wasn't centered on the box, or the box itself wasn't centered.

[anewtoi]

i think the biggest difference is that for 25-50$ for the box and another 15 for the adapters and 25 for the rag joint a tight wad could get away with getting a tremendous steering upgrade compared to the expensive (subjective, of course) new rebuilt box.
i think the pitman arm was lined up properly. I Didnt mark anything before removing and only found out that trick after i was knee deep in removingit. boy, i sure hope it was cuz I AINT PULLING THAT THING AGAIN. im thinking maybe pulling the wheel and rotating it slightly then reattaching to the rag joint. IDK.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by anewtoi

thanks kell. worked like a charm. finished getting the tie rods back lined up properly and got the chance to drive it today. really noticeable difference. no more sluggo in the wheel. nice and responsive. only thing is i misaligned the steering wheel and now instead of the bottom of the 3 bars on the steering wheel being at 6 o'clock, its now at about 3:30(. anyone with any suggestions? now im on to suspension stuff. I ordered a 1 1/4" sway bar with polyerathane bushings and end links today. i had all the other front end stuff changed 2 years ago minus center link and springs. we'll see how this goes.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5

on one of the papers on this site he has instructions on how the splines for the box and steering should be clocked.

On my 68 bird I'm just able to pull the steering wheel off and adjust as needed.

[Nicks67GTO]

Glad to see some of you guys enjoying the swap! I'm still a month or so from getting my car fired up. I am excited though to see how well it works.

[i4abuygto]

So guys, I have been reading all of this and I have a 98 Grand Cherokee box with the code BT. They say that this is right.
On a bench test with full travel end to end of the pitman arm the center shaft turns 3.1 revolutions.
Is this correct?
Is this a 12.7-1 ratio for the upgrade?
Thanks
Mark

[russosborne]

I don't know for sure, but this site
http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html
doesn't have that code listed as a 12.7-1 ratio.
Stupid link, you have to scroll down and click on "Spread Sheets showing what gear box is in what" to get to the page with the codes.

I am wondering if the rebuilt boxes at advanced and autozone etc are the 12.7 ratio?

Russ

[anewtoi]

ive heard the rebuilt parts store boxes werent 12.7 but were stock boxes from other cars and product numbers changed. so sometimes would fit, sometimes would not. someone more knowledgeable would chime in. also, ive read that any of the JGC boxes from that era are 12.7's.

i forgot to update on my progress. new box has very noticeable difference in precision, slush in wheel, and overall feel of the wheel/road while driving.the addition of the 1 1/4"
is like night and day when it comes to cornering and curvy roads. NTB was able to get the steering wheel straight this past weekend while getting the alignment straight.
35 for the box, 30 or so for the rag joint, 20 for the adapters, 140 for the sway bar, 80 for the alignment. $300 well spent IMO.

[i4abuygto]

The following Chevelle forum talks about these same things:
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224995

My biggest concern is if the BT Grand Cherokee bos is a workable gear box and if it is suppose to be the tightest available -why is the center shaft movement 3.1 turns full travel and not 2.5 as most believe to be correct.

Here is a spread sheet of additional Grand Cherokee codes of boxes that should work that I took off of that Chevelle forum: http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...Gear12DE04.xls

Interesting info:

Maybe more can chime in here about the 3.1 revolutions vs. the 2.5.

[nh68gto]

#200 for the rag joint doent check out. Sure right number ?

Lee is like $95 for the kit.

[i4abuygto]

I believe it is Lares #202 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...-part-202.html.
I haven' gotten that far yet. I have the JGC box painted and new seals- ready to put in. The rag joint is next for me and the adapters from Lee's Manufacturing.

[Nicks67GTO]

This swap is awesome. Iv'e driven my car a couple times now and its amazing the difference between the Jeep box and the old time PS units. Lots of response. I added a 1 1/4" ebay WS6 sway bar in the front and i can honestly say its just a day and night difference.

[FatfreeGTO]

Originally Posted by nh68gto

#200 for the rag joint doent check out. Sure right number ?

Lee is like $95 for the kit.

Lares 200 is the one you need.

[bluegoose66]

I just buy a rebuilt quick ratio box from NAPA. I own a garage my price is less than 150 bucks. It bolts right on no adapters or anything.

[pontiac6269]

I did this on my 69 GTO with a 87 GN box, also put a 1 1/4 front bar and a 7/8 rear bar, love the way the car rides and handles now. I bought the inserts from Lee and the pressure one wouldn't let the hose go in far enough to allow the threads to grab. Did what OPH said and bought a pressure hose for a 80s GM RWD car with a 307 Olds V8 and went to the salvage yard and got the o-ring style pump fitting from a 80s Chevy pickup.

[i4abuygto]

I just buy a rebuilt quick ratio box from NAPA. I own a garage my price is less than 150 bucks. It bolts right on no adapters or anything.

The concern (or problem) here is that the Auto Parts stores show the same part for the GTO as the Firebird. Ask them and they will tell you it is the same part. The travel on the Firebird box is much tighter and (if you end up with that box) you will have to do a three point U-turn. They will both bolt right in.
I tried that with our local O'reilley Auto Parts - the sales guy stands by the fact that both the Firebird and GTO have the same part number.
Basically, you may get lucky and get the right box.
The Grand Cherokee Box offers the right travel, ratio, and effort.
I have heard nothing but favorable experiences with the JGC Box upgrade.
Just my .02.

[Dick Boneske]

Did anyone have problems using the original '60's power steering pump? I swapped the IROC box into my '64 GTO with a stock pump. The pump overheats and whines when hot, even with the car at rest and steering wheel centered. I don't think air in the system is a factor since I've turned the wheel lock-to-lock many times with engine running and not running---and have driven the car 30+ miles, excercising the power steering many times.

I'm aware of the 1400 psi on '70's pumps vs. 900 psi max pressure produced by the older pumps. I believe there is also a difference in flow with the steering wheel centered.

Will a newer pressure control valve help? I've posted this question on this forum with most people answering that I need to add an oil cooler or that I need to use synthetic power steering fluid. These suggestions don't make sense to me since these systems worked fine without coolers or synthetic fluid when built.

[i4abuygto]

I would verify that you have correct line pressure to see if your pump is producing the required pressure.
My thought is that your power steering pump could simply be shot. You can purchase a new power steering pump only (minus the reservoir) with the valving to match the IROC box (70s and up), swap over the power steering reservoir for the 66 and you will have the right look and all should work great for you. Should is the key word here.
I talked with a local auto parts guy- the pumps only are not very expensive. You will need to swap the tank and the pulleys- I believe that would work for you.
Of course this is only my opinion and you are doing the right thing in asking here. Many should chime in with possibly different experiences.