Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:38 PM
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Default Aftermarket connecting rods: your .02 ?

I’m gonna build a 455 for my T/A which will be a corner carver as I’ll also be modifying the suspension for the twisty back roads.

What aftermarket connecting rods are good these days ?

Is a stock windage tray sufficient or should I look into oiling mods ?

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Old 12-13-2018, 10:47 PM
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I currently have Eagle rods in my 474. If using Eagles I would do the bolt upgrade. For my 535 build in progress I am considering Callies rods.
As for the stock. Windage tray has a tenancy to develop cracks and fall apart.

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Old 12-13-2018, 10:50 PM
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Scat h-beams here, 10 years boosted with no problems.

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Old 12-13-2018, 10:57 PM
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Cliff has posted that most all the Chinese H-beams he's seen have checked out good. The RPM H-beams are usually about $65-$75 cheaper than Eagle Pontiac length rods.

http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sa...elhbeam-2.html

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Special.../dp/B000CN7ULM

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Old 12-14-2018, 12:10 AM
tom s tom s is offline
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Molnar is getting really high marks.I looked at one of his cranks and a set of his Hbeams last weekend.I have Curillo in one engine and Scats I another.The V I'm building will have Scats or Molnars.Tom

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Old 12-14-2018, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom s View Post
Molnar is getting really high marks.I looked at one of his cranks and a set of his Hbeams last weekend.I have Curillo in one engine and Scats I another.The V I'm building will have Scats or Molnars.Tom
MOLNAR PWR ADR BBC 6.7 ARP 2000 bolts 797 gram advertised, 790 gram as weighed by engine builder at $653.00 a set. IMHO best value, not too much more expensive than Eagles and SCATs with the ARP 2000 and way less expensive than Crower. The PWR ADRS are about $50 costlier and are unavailable in the BBC 6.8" length

Callies alas uses L19 rod bolts which are stronger under ideal conditions but potentially way weaker owing to susceptibility to moisture. A rep at Callies would inform me in a 2018 phone call that Callies uses the L19 bolts for the past few years, even though many internet vendor listings for Callies will continue to state that they still use ARP2000 bolts.

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Old 12-14-2018, 02:59 AM
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The Canton road race oil pan and pick up for corner carving.

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Old 12-17-2018, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas Willinger View Post
MOLNAR PWR ADR BBC 6.7 ARP 2000 bolts 797 gram advertised, 790 gram as weighed by engine builder at $653.00 a set. IMHO best value, not too much more expensive than Eagles and SCATs with the ARP 2000 and way less expensive than Crower. The PWR ADRS are about $50 costlier and are unavailable in the BBC 6.8" length

Callies alas uses L19 rod bolts which are stronger under ideal conditions but potentially way weaker owing to susceptibility to moisture. A rep at Callies would inform me in a 2018 phone call that Callies uses the L19 bolts for the past few years, even though many internet vendor listings for Callies will continue to state that they still use ARP2000 bolts.
I too believe that the Molnar H beams are a step up from Eagle and Scat. All of them have the ARP2000 bolts, beams are thicker and radius's are larger.
I bought the Molnar Power Adder 6.8 billet rods.
But for this application the standard rod is more than enough. Used on 1200HP engines.
I bought the Power Adders simply because they can take far more power than I will ever put out and still, are lighter than the Callies rod. 1600$ vs 630$.
It cost less for the Molnar rods as the money it would take me to rebuild my Crower billets to take 7500RPM. For more RPM than that just the bolts are 700$ then the rebuild.
Bought the Molnars and still have the Crowers for less.

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Old 12-17-2018, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragncar View Post
I too believe that the Molnar H beams are a step up from Eagle and Scat. All of them have the ARP2000 bolts, beams are thicker and radius's are larger.
I bought the Molnar Power Adder 6.8 billet rods.
But for this application the standard rod is more than enough. Used on 1200HP engines.
I bought the Power Adders simply because they can take far more power than I will ever put out and still, are lighter than the Callies rod. 1600$ vs 630$.
It cost less for the Molnar rods as the money it would take me to rebuild my Crower billets to take 7500RPM. For more RPM than that just the bolts are 700$ then the rebuild.
Bought the Molnars and still have the Crowers for less.
What sort of rpms can the various MOLNAR rods handle, say on a 4" stroke SCAT crank?

Particularly if such parts have been cryoed?

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1972+ Lucerne Blue 4-door hardtop "what if" T-41 Le Mans Sport GT/Grand Am concepts. Equipped with future 3" journal "455 HO"/"what if" prototype "SD 455".
What if GM had continued production of the 1970-72 GM A body somewhere in the southern hemisphere?
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas Willinger View Post
What sort of rpms can the various MOLNAR rods handle, say on a 4" stroke SCAT crank?

Particularly if such parts have been cryoed?
I am not the guy to ask. Tom Molnar will talk to potential customers about rods and cranks.

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Old 12-17-2018, 08:16 AM
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If you are road racing, canyon carving, all posted will hold up. I would pick the lightest of the group. the eagles with a arp 2000 bolt are good to 1500 h.p. per there web site.
I would think you would want the lightest rotating mass possible so pulling from corners the rpm's come up faster. Just my .02 I don't r/r but have a friend who does.

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Old 12-31-2018, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSPONT View Post
If you are road racing, canyon carving, all posted will hold up. I would pick the lightest of the group. the eagles with a arp 2000 bolt are good to 1500 h.p. per there web site.
I would think you would want the lightest rotating mass possible so pulling from corners the rpm's come up faster. Just my .02 I don't r/r but have a friend who does.
Thanks; ordered Eagles but those might go in my sons ‘75 GV now as I might go with a lighter rod.

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Old 12-31-2018, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455Grandville View Post
Thanks; ordered Eagles but those might go in my sons ‘75 GV now as I might go with a lighter rod.
Good deal, good luck!

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Old 12-14-2018, 12:19 AM
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Brad, one name: Crower.

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Old 12-15-2018, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62 View Post
Brad, one name: Crower.
X 2

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Old 12-16-2018, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
If your corner carver will have a need to do sustaned rpms above 4000 and your 455 is still based on a 3.250" main Crank then a oil cooler and aroad race type baffled oil pan better be on your list of needed things because it does not matter how good your Rods or your main caps are when the Bearings go south first due to overheated oil and or oil starvation!
Thanks, I’m looking into an oil cooler.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62 View Post
Brad, one name: Crower.
Eagles are cheaper; think they’ll do for 5500 rpms max. I was gonna do Edelbrock heads but I’ll probably use some 6X 400 station wagon heads like I have on the GV.

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Old 12-14-2018, 08:09 AM
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I have eagle rods and canton road race pan, 5 years of boost, never a rod problem, I did upgrade the bolts.

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Old 12-14-2018, 10:35 AM
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I have SCAT in one motor Eagle in another motor.

Canton has better baffling than the Moroso for cornering. If you have an auto tranny and really sticky tires you might need to extend the vent tube. My TA used to sloch tranny fluid out until I did "fogging mosquitoes" when it hit the exhaust.

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Old 12-14-2018, 01:23 PM
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Been using Molnar rods and cranks last 5 engines

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Old 12-14-2018, 02:05 PM
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I used Eagle rods in my current engine build. They are very nice rods. Machine work was excellent. Sleeves in the threaded holes on the journal end to locate the cap. Done very nice. Screwing down the ARP bolts felt like turning a micrometer....the machined threads felt like precision work.

I didnt upgrade the ARP bolts since I am sticking with stock power levels.

For me, this is the first time using forged rods in a Pontiac engine so I can only compare this set to the prepared cast rods that I used to use in the 80s and early 90s. Back then I couldn't afford forged rods. Glad to see there are so many reasonable choices available these days.

Sounds like a fun build.

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