[torqhead]

I installed a driveshaft loop which was a tough job getting everything out of the way to get it in but discovered on reassembly the H part of the exhaust touches the driveshaft loop as circled in the attached pic. I was thinking the I could somehow "dent" in the area of the exhaust pipe to create a little bit of a gap between the two. Does anyone have any recommendations on how I can do this at the house or am I going to have to go to a muffler shop?

[surfsama]

Could be the angle of the shot but I would be way more concerned about running the parking-brake line that close to you u-joints.

Regarding the cross over, I would dimple it a bit.

[lust4speed]

Looks like the parking brake cable would be better under the loop bracket. Tthe universal joint is quite a ways from the tailshaft - is there enough inside the trans to prevent problems?

As far as the crossover, dimpling it as necessary for clearance will work just fine.

[torqhead]

Yeah, there's plenty of driveshaft and within spec. I was thinking somehow dimple, what do you guys suggest as process. Would it help to use a propane torch and they to heat it up? Will that help "cave it in" a bit?

[Squidward]

Several blows with a mini sledge would do. Hold a good chunk of 4x4 to the backside to support the pipe. I wouldn't use any heat. I don't think it would help much for what you need, and risk of hurting yourself or car outweighs small benefit.

[lust4speed]

I like to use two hammers. A ball peen hammer with the ball side placed against the pipe and a larger mallet to tap the hammer. While it relieves stress to really haul off and hit the pipe, it will come out better with a bunch of medium blows. Then you can work the area until you have a somewhat decent indentation. I also agree that no heat should be used - besides exhaust pipe is pretty malleable stuff.

Safety glasses are a must since you are banging two hammers together. Probably not an OSHA approved procedure.

[torqhead]

Well with what's proposed I won't be able to do. It needs to be dented on top and my H pipe exhaust is one that was designed and built custom on the car about 25 years ago before kits even existed.

[lust4speed]

My systems that I have welded up are solid from header (or exhaust flange on a couple of my cars) to rear tips. If you mark your indentation area with a marker and then drop the pipe loose of the header or exhaust manifold, it will drop down about 10" at the cross pipe before the loop over the rear axle stops any further movement. You will also need to remove the transmission cross member and support the rear of the trans.

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

My systems that I have welded up are solid from header (or exhaust flange on a couple of my cars) to rear tips. If you mark your indentation area with a marker and then drop the pipe loose of the header or exhaust manifold, it will drop down about 10" at the cross pipe before the loop over the rear axle stops any further movement. You will also need to remove the transmission cross member and support the rear of the trans.

Yeah, I agree I could do that although it would still be limited on "swing". In my case I won't have to drop the cross member. I was just trying to see if there was a way I could do it without removing it such as crowbar with heat or something else creative....

[gtospieg]

Maybe this would work....Try using a large c-clamp and a long piece of 2x4 under the pipe so you don't crush the wrong side..... good luck

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by gtospieg

Maybe this would work....Try using a large c-clamp and a long piece of 2x4 under the pipe so you don't crush the wrong side..... good luck

Thanks, I was thinking that although the board is a good idea to distribute the pressure on the other side.

For those that mentioned the parking brake cable, I tried it underneath to begin with and that caused too much angle and wouldn't work. There's no way the cable can move closer to the U joint as the hook from the cross member won't let it travel up. So this was the best position for operation, although the cable bends around and will rub as you can see in the pic. Don't use the e-brake much anyhow, so hopefully it won't become an issue.

[sts]

any headway on this?

289376

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by sts

any headway on this?

289376

Yeah, there was no good way to manipulate it on the car so I ended up taking it to an exhaust shop and they solved it for $50. They also allowed me to pop the driveshaft myself and manipulate the driveshaft loop so it wouldn't vibrate on the bottom of the body, so I solved two issues!

[sts]

$50? So if someone spent $200 on a refit, obviously, it was a real mess.

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by sts

$50? So if someone spent $200 on a refit, obviously, it was a real mess.

I guess, mine took the guy less than 30 min. to fix. He cut the old horizontal piece out of the H and made a new one and welded it in.