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  #21  
Old 04-20-2007, 10:17 PM
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Not at this time. 3 1/4 mains are in the future, but we do not know when.

It was hard enough to get the 3'' mains made.

We have 4.00 or 4.250 or 4.500 in stock at BOP or AP.

Has anyone tap there crank to hear the high pitch ring?

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  #22  
Old 04-20-2007, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert C.
Not at this time. 3 1/4 mains are in the future, but we do not know when.

It was hard enough to get the 3'' mains made.

We have 4.00 or 4.250 or 4.500 in stock at BOP or AP.

Has anyone tap there crank to hear the high pitch ring?
Yes, I noticed it was very high pitched. That's one of the reasons I made it a point to mention it in my first post.

I gave my 4.25" Eagle crank a tap with the same little hammer and it sounded way different. I assumed it was because my new AP/BOP crank was forged.

Is there more to the story? My engine builder was pleased with the sound.

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  #23  
Old 04-21-2007, 12:38 AM
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What's the reasoning for the hammer tap?

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  #24  
Old 04-21-2007, 02:43 AM
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DRAGNCAR, WHAT WAS CRANK WEIGHT BEFORE/AFTER?

  #25  
Old 04-21-2007, 03:23 PM
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Quote:

"What's the reasoning for the hammer tap?"

It makes you feel good!

990 cranks and Moldex cranks ring like a bell. They were or are made out of great steel. I have purchased 4 of the new cranks so far and all look great and ring "true"

I have listened to other makers cranks and the sound is NOT the same. More of a "thunk" which would make you think that the molecular structure is not as good.

Maybe nothing to it John, but the 366 Forging would also ring "true" and we all know that those cranks have made over 2000 hp in the Rodney Butler and John Welter drag cars. I am not saying that a Scat crank will go 2000 hp (stroke makes a difference at that hp level) but they should be good for over 1000 hp which most will be at or under on power.

JMO

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  #26  
Old 04-21-2007, 04:06 PM
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I just took my beer cans down to be recycled and brought my crank with me to use their scale.And the verdict is in.........65.0 pounds.I never had weighed before it went through CSs Ultra Light program but they told me it takes off about 10 pounds.
Tom Vs 4" stroke crank weighed in at 75 pounds so I would think mine would be similar.But mine is a 4.25" stroke and does have the square cheeks like a factory one so it might have weighed a bit more.
So for 350$ Crankshaft Spesialist will take off 10+ pounds and double knife edge it.901-452-6663 ask for Doug,you might ask Doug about what they did to Troys crank he will remember me.Nice guy,when he found out where I lived he would end conversations with "keep your head low and watch out for that Bigfoot running around out there".
A light crank combined with some of Ultra Mans......I mean K Brewers lightweight I beams and some 400Cfm High Ports sounds like the ticket to a 9 second pump gas all motor Pontiac.

  #27  
Old 04-25-2007, 01:18 PM
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Just got my 4" stroke 3" main in from AP
Mains were 2.9990 dead on, all equal.
Rods were 2.1990 dead on, except the 7-8 which was 2.1985

The oil holes have a few sharp edges that need deburring but overall it looks pretty good.

  #28  
Old 05-09-2007, 05:26 PM
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Why are 3.25 offer on the All-Pontiac web-site
Forged Crankshaft
Price: $699.00 ea. Limited Quantities
Part Number: APFC
contact us



High quality Forged Crank available in 3” and 3.25“ inch mains

  #29  
Old 05-10-2007, 01:47 AM
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Polar, Bob,

Nunzi has bearing spacers...just a thought.

http://www.nunzi-pontiac-expert.com/...e_bearings.htm

Lynn

  #30  
Old 05-10-2007, 03:56 AM
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Anybody know how much Nunzi gets for the spacers?
And I remain curious what the rear main spacer looks like- anybody ever seen it? It isn't self-evident to me how to deal with the seal.

  #31  
Old 05-11-2007, 08:51 PM
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i too am looking into the bearing spacers. Thats a good question, how does the rear main seal work with bearing spacers? Anyone here have/had a motor with bearing spacers?

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  #32  
Old 05-11-2007, 10:58 PM
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The seal issue would be resolved by making a two piece spacer to bring the 3.188 diameter up to 3.437. It would be wide enogh that the seal lip would miss the screws that held the two pieces together.

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  #33  
Old 05-12-2007, 12:42 AM
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We used to take a pair of tin snips and cut some sheet metal strips to make up the difference of a seal we found for a 3 in main before they made them for a 400. The seal we used was from a Ford and wasnt quite big enough on the OD.

I would bet that Nunzi's kit provides something or tells you what to do. I am going to buy a set, so when it comes I will let you know.

Lynn

  #34  
Old 05-12-2007, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade Congdon
The seal issue would be resolved by making a two piece spacer to bring the 3.188 diameter up to 3.437. It would be wide enogh that the seal lip would miss the screws that held the two pieces together.
A crank-mounted seal-surface spacer, you're thinking? I hadn't considered that, since I can't envision screws holding the ends of 1/8" thick spacer-halves together. Screws with < 1/8" diameter heads? I don't think I'd want itty-bitty #3 screws holding my crank together!
Speaking of required precision- do you suppose the bearing spacers, as supplied, are precise enough to just "bolt in"? Or must the spacers be bolted into the mains and then the block/spacers-assembly be line-honed?

  #35  
Old 05-12-2007, 01:59 AM
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[quote=pontiac jack]
Speaking of required precision- do you suppose the bearing spacers, as supplied, are precise enough to just "bolt in"? /quote]

Jack, arent ALL aftermarket parts precision made and ready to rock?

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  #36  
Old 05-12-2007, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pontiac jack
A crank-mounted seal-surface spacer, you're thinking? I hadn't considered that, since I can't envision screws holding the ends of 1/8" thick spacer-halves together. Screws with < 1/8" diameter heads? I don't think I'd want itty-bitty #3 screws holding my crank together!
Speaking of required precision- do you suppose the bearing spacers, as supplied, are precise enough to just "bolt in"? Or must the spacers be bolted into the mains and then the block/spacers-assembly be line-honed?
Why not cut the number of spacers in half and use 3 in main caps? That way you only have to worry about the block side.

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  #37  
Old 05-12-2007, 10:11 AM
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issach428; i too am looking into the bearing spacers. Thats a good question, how does the rear main seal work with bearing spacers? Anyone here have/had a motor with bearing spacers?



Yes, i have an engine with spacers. When the crank gets turned, few crank grinders will even touch that area for rear seal. It seems like you are a dentist pulling teeth to even get them to dress that area at all.

  #38  
Old 05-12-2007, 06:26 PM
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If a 3.25 crank was available we wouldn't need spacers,I am so pissed

  #39  
Old 05-13-2007, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goquick
... Yes, i have an engine with spacers...
So... what sort of seal arrangement do your spacers use?

  #40  
Old 05-13-2007, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo
Why not cut the number of spacers in half and use 3 in main caps?
Bolt and dowel locations aren't correct, are they?

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