[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

That doesn't seem like a big drop in hot pressure after a hard run to me Nick.

You could likely and very simply just change oil brand or viscosity of the oil and see those minor pressure differences change. 5-7 lbs. change when hot wouldn't bother me, as long as your hot idle pressure isn't ridiculously low to begin with.

I used to run VR1 20-50, and I would see hot idle pressure drops that you mention just from a 20 mile highway cruise at 3,000 rpm, and would consider that pretty normal. Switched to Amsoil 20-50 many years ago and haven't really noticed any pressure drop hot or cold which leads me to believe (and it's been mentioned to me before) that this oil is likely holding it's viscosity better.

Running Brad Penn 10/40 with zddp for my SFT cam. I think that's top end stuff... right?

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[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO

Running Brad Penn 10/40 with zddp for my SFT cam. I think that's top end stuff... right?

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Brad Penn makes an excellent oil.

Wonder how hot you were getting it...

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Brad Penn makes an excellent oil.



Wonder how hot you were getting it...

Not sure but that updated quad gauge on the right is gonna let me know this year.

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[Formulajones]

Cool, if you go with a cooler before and after, might be able to share some useful data that might be interesting.

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO

Tell me more. I'll definitely take a copy of that cad file if you're offering. Does this interfere with the bell housing or headers at all? Do you have any pics of it installed? I added an oil temp gauge to my speedhut cluster this year and I'm going to monitor it closely while racing. I ran a hill climb with my 67 gto last year where revs were 4-6500 rpm for a lot of it and I think my oil was getting hot.

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Sent you a step file of the adapter.
There's no interference with a 200-4R and Doug's RP headers in my '66 GTO. But, I do have to use a shorter filter than that PF-35L with the Doug's. Last time I used a Mobil 1 filter that was 4" dia and about 4" long, forgot which p/n, but correct for an SB Chevy.

[coslanzetta]

Originally Posted by hgerhardt

And that's why I love oil-to-water coolers like they used on 4th gen TA's with manual trans and C4 Corvettes.

On a cold start, the water heats faster than the oil which causes the cooler to actually warm the oil. After warmup, it's the opposite situation.

Below is the setup on my '66 GTO. It's a C4 Corvette unit (made by Modine) attached to a 90deg adapter via a simple adapter plate on a Firebird long-branch adapter. The hoses connect to the heater nipple on the RH head (although mine takes water from both heads) and then to the heater core. The switch (used to) control the electric fuel pump and also turn on an oil pressure idiot light (with rally gauges and solid rollers, you can't hear/easily notice if there's low oil pressure). This cooler also allows (forces?) the use of SBC oil filters. Unfortunately, with Doug's headers I have to use a shorter filter than that PF-35L (it worked well with H-O Racing's Tri-Y headers). If you want a CAD file of the adapter plate, shoot me a PM.

Hey why is the filter housing on such an angle to clear your headers ?I'd like to do this

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by coslanzetta

Hey why is the filter housing on such an angle to clear your headers ?I'd like to do this

Yes, that's exactly why it's angled backwards.

[azbirds]

[QUOTE=bendutro;5991827] I ask because I talked to Don Stellhorn about his issues and it sounded like sustained rpm and high bearing speeds resulted in spun bearings more than once so he hit the LS button and didn't look back.

Just wondering about the rest of the story. What kind of rotating assembly did this guy saddle his Pontiac engine with? Did he run a three stage dry sump system like his ls3 has? Was he spinning main bearings or rod bearings? IMHO hitting the "ls button" is a cop out.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Ford had oil coolers on their 428 & 429 SCJ cars with the "Dragpak" option in the late '60's early '70's. I never heard of any issues with or without them. I am inclined to say an aftermarket cooler plumbed via an oil filter adaptor with remote filter is just asking for more trouble.

[Skip Fix]

My 97 SBC truck with towing package as one on it. 340K miles on original motor so far!

[Steve C.]

Related thread:

Oil Cooler and Remote Filter

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=800939


.

[Tom Vaught]

Back in the days when I ran a 4.33 rear gear with my Muncie 4 speed and engine rpm was a steady 3600-3700 rpm with the short tires I ran on 14" rims, at highway speeds where you were not run over by the Trucks and Buses, I ran and monitored the oil pan oil temp.

I had a really nice mechanical temp gage that was designed for oil temps.
It fit where the Amp Gage went on a 3 gage panel. I had two 3 way valves so that I could turn the thing off in the winter months in Michigan.
I even installed a pan heater for a short period of time when I lived in a house vs an apartment. ALL OF THOSE "GADGETS" WORKED AS ADVERTISED.

That being said, unless you are towing a boat or trailer with your car or have a stiff rear gear, oil temp will not be an issue with today's overdrive transmissions.

JMTOTS (just my thoughts on the subject)

Tom V.

[Steve C.]

General tech articles for performance applications, it is my understanding a temperature of 175-200 is normal, and 275 is suggested maximum. In a related Car Craft article it stated under 200 degrees is nice, however Canton in conjunction with their oil cooler sales says keep it at a minimum of 215 degrees.

And somewhat related from a magazine article....

"To alleviate the creation of excessive moisture, the optimal operating range of engine oil is no less than 212 degrees, which is the point at which the water in the oil will evaporate. Vehicles with an oil temperature thermostat are typically set right at or slightly above this mark. Conversely, you don’t want to run the oil above roughly 240 degrees, as Speed tells us, because you begin to significantly reduce the life and operating ability of the oil, as oil containing moisture doesn’t flow or lubricate properly."


I called Red Line Oil years ago about oil temps approaching 250 degrees and the tech guy chuckled, then gave a reassuring replay not to worry. This with synthetic oil.
.

[Tom Vaught]

With the Ford Cop Cars, (as a Point of Reference), they mandated the Water Oil Cooler
if the engine oil temps were expected to be above 230 degrees for over 10 minutes.
This would be a high speed Chase Vehicle running on highways like Interstate 40 (I-40)
in California.

This was with conventional oils back in the late 1990s. Today's modern oils, probably only towing a 5 wheel vehicle.

Tom V.

[dataway]

Steve, when I was running an air cooled race bike, with some stupid high spring pressures and about 10,000 rpm that freakin Redline was the ONLY oil I ever found that would not come out dark and burnt smelling after races at tracks like Mosport, and would keep the valve train alive for about two seasons. Mobil 1 as much as I like it would not hold up, Royal Purple a little better, Redline seem to do the trick. I'd guess oil temps even with a cooler was in the 300+ degree range. Amazing stuff and pricey too.

[padgett]

Just for S&G my tow car (Jeep Grand Cherokee with Pentastar and trailer towing package) has readouts for coolant, engine oil, and transmission oil temperatures.

With a 180F thermostats and "aggressive" radiator fans, nothing gets over 200F even with AC on MAX. Coolant usually runs 90-100F over ambient.

Biggest boon to transmissions is lockup, temp stays down when locked. I'll drop a gear or two on Interstate hills to stay out of PE and in lockup.

Agree, racing is different (why I had a 3.55 in my B/P Corvette) but for street driving that's my guideline.

[Steve C.]

"Redline seem to do the trick. I'd guess oil temps even with a cooler was in the 300+ degree range. Amazing stuff and pricey too."

X2


Ester based oil

.