[stealthgoat]

I remember we used to replace OEM flywheel ring gears, is that repair possible for a Centerforce steel ? Flywheel was neutral balanced with rotating assy engine at last build years ago.

Just recently my ministarter is occasionally making grinding noise. The starter is still tight and I can see the shim in place. But in the picture you can see corners of some ring gears have marks, which I don't remember before. Does this look like a engagement / clearance issue, and if so why now?? how bad is this?

May not be related at all, but I have also been fighting a balky clutch / shifter situation (mainly 1st & reverse) for awhile. I think it's shifter adjustment, but I guess it could be clutch or linkage - my jack stands may have shrunk because it's much tighter under the car tinkering with things than it was when I was 25 years younger + 25 lbs lighter ; -)

any ideas ? thanks!

[mgarblik]

The one picture isn't very good. But from what I can see, you have a starter shim issue. Possibly two issues. Depth to the root of the teeth, {can't see), and full engagement across the teeth. The flywheel damage looks like it could be cleaned-up with a little file and be OK to me. The ring gear it attached to the flywheel somehow, not cut directly on the wheel, so it can probably be replaced. I have had Hays steel flywheel ring gears replaced many times. I have never used or worked on a Centerforce one. IMO, you need to disconnect the battery and gently pry the starter pinion into full contact with the flywheel teeth and gauge where you are. I use a large diameter paperclip, unbend it, they are around .030" wire. You should be able to slide the paperclip under the root of the flywheel tooth with the starter pinion engaged. The pinion should slide across the ring gear tooth most of the way across. It looks like it's not traveling far enough across the flywheel teeth. Most quality starters have a way to shim both conditions. Good luck.

[John Milner]

I have had luck using no shims on my starters with a manual transmission flywheel. I mainly run delco starters and never use shims with those. My mini starter would grind and finally I removed the shims and the grinding noise went away.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by stealthgoat

I remember we used to replace OEM flywheel ring gears, is that repair possible for a Centerforce steel ? !

Should be able to. What I've done several times in the past is press the ring gear off and flip it, if the other side is in good shape.

[stealthgoat]

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I should have some time this weekend to dig into this a little more. thanks

[stealthgoat]

weekend update - starter is actually an older IMI-908 HiTorque starter, not standard smaller IMI-108 version. Purchased from Ace Brewer @ Pacific Performance Racing in about 2005, may be overkill for this street car

In my pictures you can the starter pinion gear teeth are also marked up, and the starter / flywheel don't have full engagement. I could maybe clean this up with some file work, but I reached out to IMI to see if they sell a replacement gear kit - haven't heard back yet.

I had switched to Centerforce 30lb steel flywheel when 428 was built, as seemed more 'streetable' than previous aluminum flywheel. So starter was originally set up with flywheel while on the engine stand, and it's much harder to try to measure the clearance / backlash in car while flat on my back - it's tight up there. Also flywheel is neutral balanced to engine, so if I end up replacing flywheel then it looks like McLeod or Hays are best neutral options available?

thanks!

[TransAm400]

Had the same issue with a RobbMc mini starter and an aftermarket flywheel. Not enough engagement on the flywheel. I put a stock starter back in and it has been working fine.

[ID67goat]

Originally Posted by stealthgoat

weekend update - starter is actually an older IMI-908 HiTorque starter, not standard smaller IMI-108 version. Purchased from Ace Brewer @ Pacific Performance Racing in about 2005, may be overkill for this street car

In my pictures you can the starter pinion gear teeth are also marked up, and the starter / flywheel don't have full engagement. I could maybe clean this up with some file work, but I reached out to IMI to see if they sell a replacement gear kit - haven't heard back yet.

I had switched to Centerforce 30lb steel flywheel when 428 was built, as seemed more 'streetable' than previous aluminum flywheel. So starter was originally set up with flywheel while on the engine stand, and it's much harder to try to measure the clearance / backlash in car while flat on my back - it's tight up there. Also flywheel is neutral balanced to engine, so if I end up replacing flywheel then it looks like McLeod or Hays are best neutral options available?

thanks!

Had this same exact issue with a Powermaster starter. I ended up replacing the ring gear (although my flywheel is a Hayes) and then going with a RobbMC starter.

Other than the pain of having to pull the transmission etc, replacing the ring gear wasn't too big of a deal. Heated up old ring gear until it expands enough to be removed from the flywheel. Then heat up the new one and drop it over the flywheel and make sure it is fully seated. It would be much cheaper, and impact your balancing less if you go this route.

The RobbMC starter pinion extends further offering better engagement with the flywheel, they also offer a pinion support that helps support the load put on the pinion during cranking. I did rebuild the Powermaster and still have it as a spare...I imagine that IMI should have the parts to fix yours also.

For re-shimming...just check it while you are re-assembling everything...install the flywheel, and then mount the starter to setup the shims before installing the bellhousing etc. Much easier to see that way.