[1980 TA]

Looking for some guidance. My son and I built a nice 350 for his 79 Camaro and it is running well.

About 3 weeks ago, a deer jumped through the windshield and the car is totaled.

We are pulling the motor to put in the 86 Iroc he bought to replace his 79.

What would be the best process to store the motor until we can install it in the 86? It might be up to 6 months before we get it swapped out.

The car can still be driven on the side streets up to 35 mph if we need to.

Looking for the best way to prep the motor so that it fires right up when we swap it in. It will be stored inside where the temps stay between 55 and 75 depending on the time of year.

Thanks.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Amsoil engine fogging oil in the cylinders. Remove the plugs, spray in the fogging oil, rotate the engine through two complete cycles then reinstall the plugs. Use duct tape to close off the exhaust ports and the intake under the carb. If you can find them in the correct size use desiccant plugs instead of spark plugs.

[The Champ]

If it's only 6 months and it's still sitting in the old Camaro, I'd probably just change the oil and call it good.

I store all my toy cars from November - March/April and don't have any problems restarting them in the spring.

[b-man]

At the most I’d put some Stabil in the tank and run the engine a little to get it into the entire fuel system.

From there nothing else, it’ll be fine.

It’s a good running engine as it sits, no need to mess with it.

[steve25]

Sorry to hear about the loss of the Camaro, I bet it was in nice shape.

[mgarblik]

Honestly, as mentioned, probably don't need to do anything. For extra security and that warm fuzzy feeling, pulling spark plugs and a little fogging oil is an added layer of protection. For even another layer, pop the valve covers off and back off all the rocker arms. That way all the valves are closed and there is little chance for rust in the cylinders. Up to you.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Keep the mice outta the exhaust, intake, any holes.

[b-man]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Keep the mice outta the exhaust, intake, any holes.

Best advice.

Keep the critters out.

Otherwise nothing more needs to be done.

I mean really, parking something for maybe six months inside during the spring and summer you need to do all that other stuff to it?

[NeighborsComplaint]

Since the motor will be out of the car and stored, put some oil in the cylinders, turn the motor over with the plugs still out to coat the cylinder walls. Seal the intake and exhaust,, spray a heavy coat of WD40 over everything including pulleys, bag the motor and seal the bag.. Store in a dry spot off the floor.

6 mos can easily turn into 2 years

[77 TRASHCAN]

Installing clean oil and new filter can be beneficial. Let it circulate a little.

[turbo69bird]

With boat engines we use fogging oil, rev it up spray it into the carbs til it stalls , the. We put it away. Airplane engines we wrap them
Ho really good and in the bottom of the plastic wrapping we put a desiccant to pull all moisture to the bottom below it because the cams rust quickly I. Airplane engines due to the design (carb inlet on the bottom) tends to trap the moisture .

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by The Champ

If it's only 6 months and it's still sitting in the old Camaro, I'd probably just change the oil and call it good.

I store all my toy cars from November - March/April and don't have any problems restarting them in the spring.

You are assuming there is no humidity where he lives. Humidity can do an incredible amount of damage in a short amount of time. Ask me how I know….

[Schurkey]

I've stored engines for YEARS "in the vehicle" with full air filters, closed throttles, and full exhaust systems. Works OK.

Change oil prior to storage, and run the engine long enough to get the clean, new oil circulated. No need for contaminated oil to corrode the bearings.

Best practice would include oiling/fogging the cylinders, a bigass plastic bag, a couple of desiccant packs, VACUUM THE AIR OUT OF THE BAG and then tie the bag shut "air tight". Assure that there's no critters that can chew a hole in the bag which lets air/humidity inside.

[turbo69bird]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

You are assuming there is no humidity where he lives. Humidity can do an incredible amount of damage in a short amount of time. Ask me how I know….

I can second that one, I had a Block in my basement new house no water issues) in a bag and it got rusty . And I had liked it before I put it in the bag too.

For a
Complete engine we also use a
Product called cam guard in airplanes , but fine print says it’s only good for about a year so any longer and pull must be changed

[jhein]

My advice on storing a running motor is to shut it off first.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

[Dragncar]

Change the oil and use a full quart of Lucas. Its great for dry start ups so that quality will be useful in storing a engine. It puts a sticky coat of oil on everything.

[The Champ]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

You are assuming there is no humidity where he lives. Humidity can do an incredible amount of damage in a short amount of time. Ask me how I know….

Short term storage inside were the temps 'stay between 55 and 75 depending on the time of year' doesn't sound like a high humidity situation to me.

I was took basic training at Fort Leonard Wood back in Sep - Nov of 1972. I know from personal experience that MO can be extremely HOT and HUMID in September. A lot hotter than 75 degrees, so his indoor storage must be at least somewhat climate controlled.

It didn't sound like he was pulling the engine out of the '79 until they are ready to install it in the 3rd gen.

The OP stated 'The car can still be driven on the side streets up to 35 mph if we need to.', which means that he can easily fire it up and drive it at low speeds if humidity was a problem, but it doesn't sound like it to me.

Your results may vary.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by The Champ

Short term storage inside were the temps 'stay between 55 and 75 depending on the time of year' doesn't sound like a high humidity situation to me.

I was took basic training at Fort Leonard Wood back in Sep - Nov of 1972. I know from personal experience that MO can be extremely HOT and HUMID in September. A lot hotter than 75 degrees, so his indoor storage must be at least somewhat climate controlled.

It didn't sound like he was pulling the engine out of the '79 until they are ready to install it in the 3rd gen.

The OP stated 'The car can still be driven on the side streets up to 35 mph if we need to.', which means that he can easily fire it up and drive it at low speeds if humidity was a problem, but it doesn't sound like it to me.

Your results may vary.

ASSUMPTIONS seldomly reflect reality. I have seen cast iron corrode in minutes without proper protection inside an air conditioned plant ( 75 degree and low {35-40%} humidity). You CAN get lucky using your method; I don’t depend on luck. I believe in prevention.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by turbo69bird

I can second that one, I had a Block in my basement new house no water issues) in a bag and it got rusty . And I had liked it before I put it in the bag too.

For a
Complete engine we also use a
Product called cam guard in airplanes , but fine print says it’s only good for about a year so any longer and pull must be changed

I’ve “pickled” and “unpickled” many aircraft engines ( both recip and turbine) since 1983. We used Cam Guard in any engine that was going to sit for any length of time plus desiccating plugs in the cylinders. Turbines were easier; desiccating bags along with plugs for the engine inlet and exhaust.

[1980 TA]

Thanks for all of the info.

Shop space for storage is well insulated with 17 foot ceilings. Main 18 inch ducts for the house run along the marriage wall and radiate some cool so it is hard pressed to get over 75 degrees in there even in the heat of the summer.

We hope to have the motor pulled by the end of summer.

It was a shame on the car. We had gone through everything and was just starting to swap in the cloth seats when it got wrecked. It was so close to being done. A lot of great parts on the car. We are hoping to sell it as a rebuilder when we get the motor pulled.

I've posted some pics of it. Prom and the deer strike four days later. The IROC is shaping up nicely. It took some work bringing the paint back to life but its looking respectable. Solid, rust free car with virtually every option for 1986. When we get his motor and tranny swapped it, it should be quite the runner.