[Jack Ferris]

I'm doing a trans swap for a gentleman and I'm having issues with the clutch fork not having enough room to travel to fully dis engage the clutch. Here's what I have:
Lakewood shield/block saver plate, Lakewood clutch fork, Hays flywheel, centerforce clutch. The CF instructions say if this happens to use the longer GM pivot ball or the adjustable Lakewood ball. Is there any reason I can't use a longer throw out bearing? Even if I were to add .500 to the pivot ball I still think the clutch arm will hit the bell housing.

[stickboy]

If you use the longer TO bearing, it may not fully disengage. Gotta check it all...I think the correct number is 1716 for the TO bearing. I had to extend the pivot about .5" as you said...It required some re-engineering of the "adjustable" pivot ball....ie make an extender peice of threaded rod and a thick wheel nut to support the whole contraption...PITA but I finally got it all right.

[Jack Ferris]

Yes the TO bearing bears the 1716#. I called a local outfit in town here and they said the longer TO bearing is for the "flat" style diaphram and the 1716 is for the " high cone" style diaphram and it will not work. I may try a GM fork first to see it it makes any difference. Aside from that I guess I will mess with the pivot ball and see where I get. Thanks!

[455 pontiac]

I just went through the same issue with the Lakewood bell,get the mcleod adjustable ball.Also I went back to the stock fork because the Lakewood caused the throwout bearing to bind.

[baron_]

ditto
gotta get the adjustable mcleod bellhousing pivot ball
Or take the one you've got, cut it...and weld some pieces on each end of it to extend it about an inch

that stupid mcleod piece is not cheap

[chuckies76ta]

Same here. A friend recommended I get the McLeod pivot ball, Part #16908 . I used the Lakewood bell housing, T/O bearing # 614018 from Federal Mogal or Part # N1716 from Centerforce. I also used Lakewood Clutch fork # 15500. No issues. Pilot bearing # 7109

charles


http://www.centerforce.com/mediafiles/I93GM002.pdf

[rontiac]

I just want to chime in here and say thanks for this thread. I will be doing the same conversion in about a month. This info will really help me out. Especially all of the part numbers.
Thank you!

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by rontiac

I just want to chime in here and say thanks for this thread. I will be doing the same conversion in about a month. This info will really help me out. Especially all of the part numbers.
Thank you!

Your Welcome. Here is a link to some Tech Videos on setting up the clutch pivot ball..

http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/

http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/video.aspx

Charles

[triathlonx13]

I had the same set up (but with stock flywheel). I could not use the aftermarket clutch fork. The strengthening bends in the fork made it to "thick" and could not get as much travel. I also think there was some angle differences. I used a stock GM fork and all worked fine. It's been in use for 6 years with no issues.

[baron_]

i had th eissue with the clutch fork too
the webbing to make it strong were making contact with the little window in the bellhousing that it sticks out of


nothing an angle grinder didn't fix, though
but you're right. The difference in the angle of a stock one and that lakewood one is a bit different too

So yea, stock is better if you can find a nice one

[Thomasmoto]

I've got the stock fork and stock bellhousing with a Center DF and Center-TO bearing and no probs at all.

[goatman65]

Can somebody tell me the length of the 1716 bearing.I may need to use it but would like to compare it to what I have now.