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#1
07-07-2013, 10:04 AM
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charging
I have a 1969 Custom"S" with a 400 stroked to 455 everything basically replaced under the hood. The alternator that was original to car was a 55amp, now it has a Summit brand 88amp. The car has only an am radio, power brakes, power steering and was an A/C car-which has been removed. The only extra electrical addition to car was a dual fan setup installed on radiator. Now I took the car out for a run yesterday and maybe 5 miles or so the car died. Would not restart...dead battery. Before when timing engine it measured 12.5 volts at alternator. Original wiring harness anything else I can do to make sure battery is being recharged? Or what did I do wrong? Any help would be great here...Jim
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#2
07-07-2013, 10:31 AM
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Its not charging. It should set at about 14.2 volts or a bit more when Idling.
If you have a one wire alternator,Then the alternator is prolly no good. If you have a 3 wire job, it prolly isnt hooked up correctly. I dont like the 1 wire alternators,they need to have the throttle revved sometimes to start working, and you cant hook up the Idiot light in the dash either. I like the idiot light. The 3 wire ones energize much easier than the 1 wire jobs. Which alt do you have? |
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#3
07-07-2013, 03:34 PM
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charging
i have the original style...external voltage regulator. The fat black power wire is going into original wiring harness. I'm not sure what the amp draw is on the dual fans...will try to find out. Do you think a larger alternator...100+amp? Also is it possible to run one wire from alternator directly to positive battery post?
Last edited by pressgod1; 07-07-2013 at 03:35 PM. Reason: add pic |
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#4
07-07-2013, 03:40 PM
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alternator
picture of connectors...
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#5
07-07-2013, 05:34 PM
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It's possible to run a wire directly to the battery post, but the original harness has within it a fusible link to protect part of that harness in case of a short circuit.
Get the alt working first, then worry about increasing the wire size for the increased alt output. You should check the wiring between the alt and the regulator. what does the idiot lite do when the key is off, when the key is on, engine not running, and finally when the key is on, engine running? George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#6
07-07-2013, 05:35 PM
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You can run a large power wire directly to the battery, but you need a circuit protection device, like a fusible link, or max fuse.
Also the wire is run to the starter to eep the connection away from the battery as it can corrode faster on the battery, protecting the integrity of the connection. |
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#7
07-07-2013, 06:20 PM
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idiot lites
with the battery connected...no lights are illuminated...turn key to on position(not starting engine) gen light is a soft glow...look close in pic. Will try to start tomorrow and give you update. Battery is dead at this time...charging.
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#8
07-07-2013, 06:26 PM
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I did that once, put a larger amp alternator in a car and went through 2 batteries. Found out wasn't charging while cruising, the pulley was larger on the bigger amp alternator, causing it not to spin fast enough. Put a smaller pulley on, and never had a problem since.
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1973 Formula 400 4 spd 04C build date Norwood assembly plant. |
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#9
07-07-2013, 11:46 PM
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With key on, engine off, the light should be on brightly. I suggest you need to check your regulator and wiring.
Do a search, there have been several posts with step-by-step instructions for testing the system. if you can't find them, I'll repeat. George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#10
07-08-2013, 09:01 PM
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charging
ok...started car today and measured volts going to battery...0. At alternator 10-12 output. My battery is in the trunk so that is not going to work. It's an 80 amp alt and according to the dual fans that are running they consume 50 of those amp. Sent alt back to Summit exchange for a 140 amp and will go from there when it comes back to me.
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#11
07-09-2013, 10:32 AM
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Battery voltage and voltage at the alt output stud should be the same. Seems like youhave a missing connectionbetween the alt and battery, assuming you are measuring correctly.
George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#12
07-17-2013, 09:06 PM
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alternator
ok...still waiting for new alternator, but it is an internal regulator and I also ordered the special connector from M&H for the connections. As George suggested I will dbl check the connections but now that I am going from external to internal...correct way?
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1969 Custom"S" 400 stroked to 455 Holley Dominator 870 Pontiac Performer intake KRE heads Kieth Black pistons Crane Cam Hooker ceramic coated headers CVF Racing pulley system 700r4 trans built/700hp Ford 9" 3.73 posi 4-wheel disc brakes Last edited by pressgod1; 07-17-2013 at 09:07 PM. Reason: and I do have 12 volts at pos battery and bolt at alternator |
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#13
07-18-2013, 05:49 PM
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Pretty simple to wire it up for an internal reg style alternator.
when you get your parts , post back. I will walk you through it. |
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