[Keith Vrabec]

1981 Chev K30. Burned up the fusible link, then did it again, found the battery to be leaking acid...one cell dry.

WIll the fusible link burn in that situation? If I change the link and the battery I should be good to go?

Where do I get a link?

[LPete]

Most cars have several fusible links -- any idea what circuit your blown one is in? I really doubt that your battery made the link blow. I suggest putting a headlamp in series with the battery cable when you hook up the new battery. If everything is turned off and the headlight lights brightly, you have a short to ground somewhere. I've seen issues with the wiring harness rubbing through on the firewall back by the distributor on those (just a wild guess, though).

NAPA and Carquest sell fusible links -- you need to know what gauge. They have a selection with different ends so you don't have to put terminals on them.

[Keith Vrabec]

Starter circuit is blown...turn the key and nothing happens..connect the link to itself it works fine. Didn't check the alt, wonder it the alt is putting out too much since the battery is low on volts.

With all the fluid out of the battery on one cell, will that short it?

[BB70]

No, the battery won't short the fusible link. There is something on that circuit that is taking to much current to operate. Just because it doesn't crank when unhooked does not automatically condemn the starter-starting circuit. You need a wiring diagram to see what all is on that circuit and the proper gauge fusible link should be called out also.

John

[LATECH]

Hook a test light between the batt cable and the batt post. As said before it will light brightly if there is a short (or a load) .With the key off it should not light.
Repair the fuse link, then hook in your test light to check before hooking the battery up. Remember the big wire on the alternator goes straight to the battery VIA a fuse link that may be hooked at the starter or the firewall, I dont recall exactly on that one.
If the light is bright , unhook the big wire at the rear of the alternator and re check. If light goes out , the alt is bad.Diodes or internal short somewhere.
If that doesnt cure it, then the fues link in question prolly is the body feed, and like someone suggested, the circuit has a wire chaffed and shorted to ground , or just plain melted.
Easy way to find it....leave test light hooked up and glowing, pull on the wiring starting at the starter and working your way back from there to the firewall.If the light flickers or goes out, then youre real close to the issue.A good look will reveal the problem area.
Look at it closely.

[george kujanski]

I believe the alt current goees thru the link, if so, sustained high current thru a link due to a bad battery may deteriorate the link.

George

[Keith Vrabec]

Link hooks up to a box on the firewall, has two posts on it. That test light procedure seems to be the first thing to try...Wouldn't be surprised to see rat-chewed wiring. IT's a farm truck and hadn't run in a couple years. Since I repaired th link, I got it running, brought it home and will figure this out. Then it's for sale...

[LATECH]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

I believe the alt current goees thru the link, if so, sustained high current thru a link due to a bad battery may deteriorate the link.

George

George is right. If the link burns after it runs for a minute or two then the dead battery is sucking up all the alternator can put out. It could burn a link.
Do the other tests outlined first.
replace the battery before attempting to run the car again.

[1969GiPper]

Something to think about. You may want to disconnect the blower motor for the A/C & heater. If the motor is bound up for some reason and the switch is ON it can take out a fusible link in seconds. Remember, even if the blower switch is in the OFF position, the motor should still be spinning slowly in that model year. If the truck has been sitting for a long time critters may have built a nest in the blower motor that prevents it from turning. Had a neighbor with a late 70's Oldsmobile that had a blower motor going bad and it took out the fusible link and they had to have the car towed home. For what it's worth I seem to remember that that Oldsmobile used two fusible links off the starter solenoid. One link was strickly for the headlamps and the other link handeled the rest of the car. At the time I used a Chevy Caprice wiring schematic to figure out what was what. Basically the Olds and Chevy wiring was very similar.