[lee33lyn]

I'm getting down short hairs on my 70 GTO restoration. My questions is do I need a new wiring harness and what are my options?
The fuse block has bolts and all kind of other metal objects in it other than fuses. I'm just not comfortable with the electrical system of this car. Can I replace the fuse block or do I need a complete wiring harness? How much trouble would it be to replace and how much should I budget in time and money?
Thanks for any advice. Leebo

[kate`s67gto]

If you're not comfortable with the harness replace it. After all it is 43 Years old.
It is likely dry and brittle with cracked protective covering. The engine harness is likely the same if not worse. Give yourself peace of mind driving put in new wiring.

http://www.wiringharness.com/

[Txbobcat]

I believe that harness is around $400. I dont believe you can replace the fuse block. I would guess 6 hours.

[paint guy]

Here are some options: M&H sells all the harnesses you need to completely re-wire your car, and are "plug and play".I got an estimate from a rep about four years ago as to cost to re-wire my 69 GTO vert and was told "about $1400", this was for every harness in the car. I have re-wired 3 cars in my life, usiny 3 different methods/ suppliers asd follows: 1st one ( a 57 chevy) I bought a terminated fuseblock from Painless and built my own harness ( Total cost was about $200 about 10 years ago). 2nd: ( a 72 Chevelle) I used an EZWire harness (about $185) and bought some other necessary Packard 56 and 59 terminals,etc from Terminal Supply. Total cost about $220. 3rd: a 69 GTO vert that I added headlight and other relays, (Ron Francis Wiring) and used a harness from KeepItClean Wiring. Total was about $300 or so. You will spend 20 hours + if you build your own harness or use one as mentioned above, other than a plug and play type. Plug and play advantages: Ease of installation, looks entirely factory, installs exactly correct, excellent choice for exact resto or high-point show car. Disadvatages: Any mods and you're probably going to have to cut into the harness, and cost.
Building your own: Cheapest way to go.
Buying a generic pre-built harness: Good tech support, inexpensive, can modify to suit needs, wires all color-coded as factory, and in addition, are identified as to what circuit they are (very helpful when trouble-shooting). You can modify as needed, and also make these essentially plug and play by using Packard terminals and your existing plastic plugs. A huge benefit, in my mind, is you will learn your electrical system inside and out whether you build your own or buy an aftermarket. Before you do anything, my advice would be to order a schematic from ClassicCarWiring.com for about $20, you can use this a s blueprint to build your own, or install aftermarket. It will even help you if you use M&H or similar. Good luck.

[Judas]

I've just built a new harness for my '69 GTO using a GM Kwik-Wire harness and was pleased with the product for the price. I believe I paid in the low-mid 200's at Carlisle from a vendor.

http://www.kwikwire.com/products.html

It came with new column connectors (and terminals), ignition switch connectors, and some other things like new head-light terminals. The wires are color-coded and I would estimate around 95% of them were the same (or very close) to factory colors. I should say 'main colors' because the factory loved striped wires and theirs are solid. So it certainly will not pass for an OEM resto show car.

This is essentially a 'build your own' with a lot of help. You will have to add a lot of your own terminals. What I did was 'harvest' all the old terminals off the old harness and either soldered them to the new wires or replaced the terminal spade/receiver itself (reusing the OEM plastic connector).

Because it is 'universal' to A-bodies, I strongly advise you to have an OEM wiring diagram on hand and you will still probably have to do some creative thinking. For example; my rear window defroster was not on the GM diagram and there was no provision for it in the new harness. I had to pick a 'keyed' powerwire and splice into it. Also, they most certainly didnt plan on someone having a hood tach vs in-dash Their harness has plenty of extra circuits though so this is not a problem. I'd think a lot of the aftermarket harnesses are like this though.

For me, it was a big win pricewise, because I destroyed my knee in a motorcycle crash in september. Thus; I am stuck in the house and needed a winter project. I was able to bench build the harness in the basement using the OEM harness to measure lengths and harvest OEM-specific connectors. I am done now, and think it probably took like 15 hours total, plus time spent double checking and tracing on the schematics. I soldered all connections (dont trust crimp connectors alone) but if you like to crimp, it would prolly go faster.

[irgoatmike]

I was not looking forward to rewiring my 67 gto, but I bought a factory replacement from M&H and was surprised how easy it was. As paint guy said, "plug and play". Btw a new fuse block comes with the dash harness. Irgoatmike

[Lemans64]

M&H harness is the way I went,plug and play as mentioned, fit was great. engine harness and tailight harness is cheap, approx 120 ea, dash was around 500, for my 64. If u have the dash out for resto, now is the time to install the harness.

[My442]

Originally Posted by Lemans64

M&H harness is the way I went,plug and play as mentioned, fit was great. engine harness and tailight harness is cheap, approx 120 ea, dash was around 500, for my 64. If u have the dash out for resto, now is the time to install the harness.

100% agree.

All the connectors only hook up one way. If you have a wiring diagram, it is pretty easy.

[stucky2947]

X3 for M&H. VERY easy to install with a wiring diagram.

[fyrffytr1]

Another vote for M&H. Plus, if you have made any alterations to the car you can contact M&H and they will alter any harness to fit.

[Hooch]

Does anyone know where you can buy all the wire connectors for a 69 gto if you want to rewire the car myself? I know most of the connectors are Packard 56 connectors. I can find some of them on line but not all of them.

I would love to use M&H but i'm trying to save some money and learn something.

Thanks,
Chris

[Old Goat 67]

Browse here.
http://www.pcsconnectors.com/packard56.aspx

[paint guy]

Hooch: If you are going with an aftermarket harness, save ALL of your plastic plug/connectors, you will be able to re-use many of them directly wired with new Packard 56 terminals. Pigtail the dash plug that goes to the printed circuit board and solder the wires from the new harness to it as this plug may not be in reproduction. You can make the rear harness "plug and play" using a six cavity Packard plug, and dont even bother using the original tail light sockets as they can be replaced by new, metal sockets from Napa for about $4 apiece. You will not be sorry if you also spend about $7-8 a relay and add a couple for your headlights (MUCH brighter and minimal voltage thru your dash switch.) If underhood originality is not a concern, go to Mills Fleet Farm for your battery cables. Much heavier (0 gauge), inexpensive, no hot start problems with mine. I wired my battery/starter to a junction block on my inner fender and also put a Packard 56 plug in my purple starter wire circuit so if I have to drop the starter, the cable and wires unhook topside, makes removal much easier. I also ran my alt. "sensing" wire to this junction block. If you have other circuits that require a lot of voltage thru switches, don't hesitate to add a bank of relays under the hood someplace, but for sure, add them for the headlights, you'll be glad you did. Any questions, just ask.

[Hooch]

Thanks for the info. I was trying to find out if someone sold this plug new? This is the plug that goes into the fuse block from the rear tail lamps.

[paint guy]

I don't know where you can get that plug new. But if you use an aftermarket harness from one of the above mentioned companies, you wont need to buy a new one as wires are terminated at the fuse block.

[1969GTO]

I replaced the harness formy 69 GTO about 7 years ago, it was the under the dash harness. I don't remember the brand with out looking for the old reciept.
It had the fuse block with it.
It was about $400.
It was 1 of the best investments on the car.
It had all of the factory wire ends,it was perfect and a piece of cake.
I pulled the dash [very easy] to do the job.
Take your time,just pull and replace 1 wire at a time.

[Jazz]

The picture that Hooch is showing...
Does any one know how you release the wires from connectors,
from the one being shown and also from the bulk head side...
I can't seem to get them out....

Thank's.

[Old Goat 67]

Release the keeper which can be seen here and pull wire & connector out the backside.

http://www.pcsconnectors.com/2973915.aspx

[RAM YAK II]

Make a "terminal pick" out of a very small screwdriver by filing or grinding it very thin (and flat) for about 1/2". If you grind it don't let it get too hot...it loses its hardness. It should not be any wider than 1/8". Hold the connector facing you and look for a small notch. Insert the tool in the notch all the way (1/2") and pry down a little and the wire will slide out the other side with a little tug. To re-install the terminal pry the tab you just pried down back up and insert the wire and terminal back in the connector. It will lock itself. Very simple.

Doug

[Jazz]

Thank You One and All ! ! ! !