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#1
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Trying to get 66 Tripower correct
I have some pics here of my 66 tripower for a 4 spd car with ram air. Been going through it trying to get it as correct as possible. I've had this for about 23 years, had initially wanted to put it on my 67. That'll probably never happen, so I decided to keep it on my bench in the garage. Makes an awesome conversation piece Anyway, the carbs I believe are correct, they have the proper 66 cast marks, etc. There's a couple things I'm not sure of:
The bolt that holds the throttle cable clamp: I have it as a JH with three has marks on the head. Not sure if this is correct. The bolt that holds the throttle bracket to the center carb: I have an "L" bolt on there, not sure if its correct. The bolt that clamps the fuel filter in the bracket: I have an "L" bolt on there. The bolt that holds the throttle cable bracket to the intake: I have a "P" bolt on there. My throttle slider is a repro, would love to find an original in nice shape. My air cleaner lids are also repro. I know the carbs are plated different colors, and I'm OK with that. If I could get some help on the bolting mentioned above, I would appreciate it. Also, if there's anything else on this that doesn't look right, please let me know. Thank you for your help.
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Jason Last edited by Jason67; 03-31-2016 at 05:26 PM. |
#2
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Can anybody help me out on the bolt markings? Anything else look blatantly wrong that I should fix?
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Jason |
#3
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I've seen many original Tripower setups with original hardware on the throttle tower & linkage. There is no consistency of head markings on the bolts you refer to. There is consistency of bolt & screw head type (Phillips or hex or recessed head), but not markings on the heads. Regarding the fuel filter bolt & nut, those also vary from car to car, car plant to car plant.
My goal is similar to yours--if you're restoring your car, doing it right is usually just as easy as doing it wrong, so why not do it right? On the four bolts you mention, however, do you really think anyone would know if they're the right head markings? When my '64 was judged for GTOAA Concours class, not one mention was made of any of the bolt heads. They were concerned with casting numbers, paint quality & color, body panel alignment, carb tag numbers, dirt or oil on undercarriage, etc. I was dinged for items I knew were wrong, such as radial tires and HO exhaust manifolds, but still managed gold. Our associations have not gotten as ridiculous as the Corvette organization that deducted points for the power steering fluid not being red like the original Dexron in '66.
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BONESTOCK GOATS '64 GTO Tripower Hardtop (Wife's Car) '64 GTO Tripower Post Coupe (My Car) '99 Bonneville SE Sedan |
#4
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Let's see some pictures of your completed Tripower. It's a lot easier to critique pictures of a complete Tripower than a description of your questions.
Here are a couple of '66's that I've almost finished restoring. Can you find the "non-correct" items?
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BONESTOCK GOATS '64 GTO Tripower Hardtop (Wife's Car) '64 GTO Tripower Post Coupe (My Car) '99 Bonneville SE Sedan |
#5
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Jason the only thing I could pick out was the nut & bolt that holds the throttle cable to the bracket. That should be a self tapping bolt that goes in from the outside going through the clamp to the bracket,,, it should be the self tapping bolt/screw not a bolt with a nut holding the bracket. As far as the blot on the fuel filter the pic you have doesn't show a good enough angle but it appears to be OK. But the nut & bolt holding the clamp to the throttle bracket is wrong.
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#6
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Quote:
As for bolting, you don't think the factory used certain head marks for original equipment? I wanted to know what guys had with originals used. Would've been nice for the replies because a lot guys have them, and if they are "TR", "RWB", "WB", etc, I want to know. I don't care about judges at shows, I want to know what the orignals had because I care. If they used all of the above, cool. If not, what were they? Again, that's for your help
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Jason |
#7
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Quote:
1) Throttle cable clamp bolt - mine has three spaced lines with some sort of a number in the middle. 2) Throttle bracket at center carb bolt is an "L5" 3) Fuel filter clamp bolt is also an "L5" 4) Throttle cable bracket on intake has a "P" Yellow throttle return springs are for 64-65 Light Blue return springs are 66-67
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
#8
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Oh, and the idle vent doesn't look right on the second pic. Did they have several set ups for that? Again, not sure, but would like to know. Thank you, Jason.
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Jason |
#9
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Jason |
#10
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Jason |
#11
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My complete tripower pics are in post #1, that's why I asked Thanks again, Jason.
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Jason |
#12
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The brake vacuum line end was originally clamped to the bracket that went under the valve cover bolt, correct? And they used special crimp clamps?
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Jason |
#13
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I do not have flame arrestors with the foam filters, that's probably an issue? Does anyone make repro flame arrestors or have originals for sale? My center carb stud is correct, but the end carbs use a longer stud for the RA pan. Not sure what the original RA studs looked like, probably like Hen's teeth Thank you.
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Jason |
#14
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Quote:
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Jason |
#15
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Quote:
Note - Tri-powers with Automatic (such as mine) always had the "throttle cable clamp bolt" going inward towards the last carb with lock nut on inside. Mechanical linkage went the opposite!
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
#16
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Quote:
64-65-66 all used a threaded bolt with a lock nut.
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. Last edited by 60sstuff; 02-28-2016 at 01:41 PM. |
#17
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Tom V. The vacuum routing from the distribution block coming off the front carb? Obviously the one tube goes to the power brakes. So the other large tube goes to a A/C location somewhere? The center carb nipple does the vac Advance and the hollow stud does the auto trans I believe. My car was a manual brake, non A/C, M/T car so know little about that plumbing. Trying to learn.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#18
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Jason |
#19
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BONESTOCK GOATS '64 GTO Tripower Hardtop (Wife's Car) '64 GTO Tripower Post Coupe (My Car) '99 Bonneville SE Sedan |
#20
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Quote:
I've never seen a '66 or older Tripwer with a self-tapping screw holding the cable clamp on the throttle cable tower. They always use a nut and bolt like 60stuff and I posted. One more item--your fuel filter is upside down. The flanged end should be on top. There were many filters stamped with the CARB arrow backwards. They're OK functionally, but marked wrong. You can see both the clamp bolt and fuel filter on the attached picture.
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BONESTOCK GOATS '64 GTO Tripower Hardtop (Wife's Car) '64 GTO Tripower Post Coupe (My Car) '99 Bonneville SE Sedan |
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