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#221
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#222
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I was adding Freon to the '67 cruiser yesterday with the idle around 1,600 RPM. There was a larger flow of air coming forward under the front bumper than was being pushed out the rear. This high pressure area would sure screw up the proper airflow through the radiator at speed.
I always wanted to add an air damn under the goat. I picked up a plastic air dam off an S10 and it's a little wide. I figure that it could run just in front of the tires and hook to the bottom of the radiator support. Keeping it flat black would make it pretty hard to see unless someone was looking under the car. Another idea I wanted to try instead of the air dam was a thin flat plate installed to the bottom of radiator support and running rearward past the sway bar and terminating at the front of the cross member. It could even have a 45° lip about 2" down at the back. Either one (or both?) of these additions should create a low pressure zone in the engine compartment and really suck the air through the radiator at cruising speed.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#223
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Dave
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
#224
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I'm going to add some info to this thread. For the non-OEM-AC guys (15 1/2" core), a Ford Contour dual fan works perfectly. Grandville, it looks like that's what you have (had?) judging by your pics in one post. The Taurus (and Mark VIII) fan is too large. I understand that the Contour fan flows a little less than the Taurus/Mk VIII, but still pulls some serious cfm. Here's some info from the DC Controls website:
Taurus Fan (15.5"H x 20.5"W x 4"D) Note that the fan itself is 17", which is larger than the 15.5" core height. Contour Fan (15.875" x 24.19" W x 3.4" D) Note no fan "overhang". A small amount of trimming along the top (or bottom) is required to fit the Contour fan, but it is minimal (~1/4"). I'm using a Flex-a-Lite variable-speed controller (like the DC Controls) with brackets I had left-over from an aftermarket trans cooler. The radiator is a two-1 1/4" row aluminium Mark7 unit. I may switch to a standard temp controller with a heavy-duty relay because it cycles the fan after I shut off the ignition (instead of the one 30-second run it's supposed to do), and seems to be running the fan only at part-speed (because I'm somehow getting hot now). Here's some pics of my setup: |
#225
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That does look like a nice set-up for a downflow radiator. Let us know the results. I am ALWAYS looking for ready spares!!
Dave
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
#226
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How did you you screw the brackets into the radiator hookemdevils22?
I was watching a 2 Guys Garage episode, and he drilled into the radiator and pressed in some kind of "nutsert". Is that what you did? How can you drill into those and not have to weld to assure no leaking?
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-- James Work '67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake." '75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver - Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400 Details here: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=588372 |
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