[Tripower455]

I never really gave the headlights much thought, although I would like them brighter......

[1967Tempest]

Last Thursday was the first time that I had her out when I needed the headlights. Since I removed the old filament T3's to halogens with the new relays..... WOW!!!!!!! Incredibly bright!!!!

I think it cost me 26$

Relays 4$ x2
Relay sockets 4$ X2
Wire 10$

EASY AS PIE!!! Then while you are there you can wire her up so your turn signals stay on with t the headlights!!
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=586289

[myckee]

Just a heads up there is a guy on the Corral Forums (mustang forum) that sells the MarkVIII fans for $60 shipped and the Taurus fans for $55 shipped.

I'm not associated with him in any way...just passing on a good deal. I wish I had found him before buying my MarkVIII fan new at the dealer for an arm and leg.

MarkVIII
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=966258

Taurus:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=929947

[Tripower455]

I got the CS144 all installed today, and that was the ticket! I am afraid to drive the car though, since there is about ONE thread left on my throttle cable (I noticed it last week, and ordered a replacement from Ames, which came last night. Of course, Ames sent me a 4barrel choke coil assembly instead of the throttle cable (shoulda ordered from PY) and now I have to wait until it gets back, and they ship out the correct part!

Thanks for the help guys!

I still can't get the thing to run below 195 with a 180 degree thermostat.. Not sure if it's a gauge issue or another cooling issue, but it is rock solid on 195 at 800 rpm idle. This is also where it ran with the mech fan when the car was moving.

[1967Tempest]

I think that my Autometer gauge is wrong by at least 10*. If that is true, then my Mark VIII fan keeps her at thermostat which is 160*

I have a thread going on that.

Dave

[Socrates]

Tripower455, try a new t-stat (or no t-stat at all). I like the high flow Robert Shaw/Mr Gasket/Whoevers' name is on it now style of t-stat in Pontiac, but the generic ones worked good too, and the "best" t-stat debate runs a lot like the "best" oil debate. If you want to get academic with this, you can test the new and old stat suspended in a pan of water that you heat to a boil on the stove with a thermometer in the pan to gauge the actual open temp. You might find your 180* stat doesn't actually open until 190* or so, or, as 1967Tempest mentions, that the temp gauge in your car is not totally accurate...

[Tripower455]

I am running a high flow robert shaw in there right now. I have a new 160 degree one sitting on the shelf (right next to my "Old Faithful" cam!) I'll try next week. I've got the DCController cranked down a lot, and it sits like a rock right at 195 on the Autometer, just like it did when the car was moving with the mech fan. It's nice that to not have it creep up at idle.

Dave, I think you're on to something as to the accuracy of the gauge too.

[1967Tempest]

When the weather is cold and I have the fan on high, the car runs like crap, because the t-stat never opens.

Then when I get on it going uphill the car never moves off of 180*.

So I have to assume that the t-stat never opens when cold, and the car is running at t-stat when the fan is on high.

More to come on that. Just want to drive her now. Worry about the 10-15* later.

Dave

[Tripower455]

I put a 160 degree high flow in it today, and let it idle in the driveway for about 45 minutes. With the AC off, it runs about 190, and hits about 200 with it on. This is at 800 rpm (750 or so with it on).

Better than it was, but still nowhere near the thermostat.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Tripower455

I put a 160 degree high flow in it today, and let it idle in the driveway for about 45 minutes. With the AC off, it runs about 190, and hits about 200 with it on. This is at 800 rpm (750 or so with it on).

Better than it was, but still nowhere near the thermostat.

How many cores is the rad?? Sometimes a 4 core is worse than a 2 core. Harder to move the air through the rad. IMHO....

HTH,
Dave

[Tripower455]

It's a brand new 2 core Griffin. FWIW, it ran at 195 with the Rodney Red I replaced and mech fan.

[1967Tempest]

Yeah, I looked back and saw the rad, duh, on my part. Well since your gauge reads 190-195* and the gauge obviously starts lower and then climbs, I would say that you have that part nailed down.

You did the fan,rad,pump mod, coolant change and a t-stat change.

What are you using for ignition? HEI? MSD? Points? What is the initial and total timing? Are you running a little lean maybe? Is your spark gap to big or too small? And are you having what I might be dealing with , a gauge issue?

HTH,
Dave

[Socrates]

Tripower455, at this point I'd say either a) leave well enough alone, or b) it's time to try a different gauge. Where is your current gauge temp probe located? The coolant in the heads runs much hotter then in the intake x-over, and simply switching from head to intake may give you the peace of mind you seek. Failing a or b, maybe try enriching the carb and/or running full manifold vacuum to the advance too.

[Tripower455]

Timing is right on. 11 initial, 30 total (KRE heads), full manifold on the vac advance, which is another 12.

Current temp gauge sender is in the crossover. New rad, fan coolant (25% antifreeze) new 160 degree thermostat.

MSD 6AL, good plug gap, cast impeller with hammer mod. It's actually running a smidge rich at idle (I have an LM1 permanently wired into the car).

The only reason that I don't think it's the gauge is that it ran at this temp with both a 180 and a 160 thermostat, although it took a bit longer to reach it with the 160.

I am going to check the water pump divider plate clearances again when I pull the timing cover to install my new cam...... It's been 6-7 years since I did that mod, and I can't recall how close I set it!

[grandville455]

I believe I will be doing this mod in the near future and using the hollister relay setup, that also comes with its own controller to turn it on correct? Does the relay setup plug right into original ford plug? Then wire accordingly for power etc? Will A 100 amp alt be enough? I believe i just have the stock 63 or 80 amp one now? Is the alt upgrade a direct drop in? wiring etc/? just plug in like mine now?

[1967Tempest]

The hollister set-up is mint. The Ford fan should come with a harness. If not Junkyard it. The kit can come with two sensors. On at 170 for low and 195 for high. I have the 195* for low (i got the wrong one) and a toggle switch for high.

100A alt is plenty if you don't have a huge stereo. Remember, it is only 100A draw for a second. Then it pulls around 35A.

The beauty part is that you can always get 40/60 relays from www.delcity.com for cheap as spares..

The Hollister set-up is nice because the wires he uses are BEEFY!! Worth the money. yes, you could wire it up yourself, but when you see it, you realize why you paid..

HTH,
Dave

[grandville455]

Yea I was reading on the hollister site and using their relay setup the fans don't spike near as high even the big mark viii one... Mine is from a 3.8 taurus so slightly smaller from what i read.. only 17" instead of 18"... I may be able to get away with my reg alt possibly, till i have the money to upgrade?

(Fan Amps: From Hollister's website
The Mark VIII is a bigger motor and draws more amps but I have yet to see anything above 45 amps even on an old fan when it’s running. It does have a momentary spike but again I have yet to see the 100 amps I hear about.
Our testing showed the Mark VIII fan ran 26-28 amps on low, with a 37-40 amp startup spike. On high it had a draw of about 32-35 amps with a 48-53 amp startup spike. This is tested with our relay kit wired with the step through configuration and a new fan. A startup from dead stop to high speed will draw higher amps.
The Taurus fan ran 24-26 amps on low, with a 32 amp startup spike
Then on high it used about 28-29 amps with a 40-45 amp startup spike. Again wired with our relay kit and a new fan.)

[lust4speed]

All I've ever used on my Taurus fan setup are inexpensive ebay 30/40 amp relays. I bought a pack of a dozen relays with the connectors and used them throughout the drag car to run everything. The fan itself has one relay for low and two in tandem for high range, and has never given me any problems. I set it up before the custom relays were on the market (or at least before I knew about them), and they have survived fine. I do have a temp control, but it drives through the relays - I'd rather buy a new $2.50 relay than a $40 temp control unit. As a side note, the thermostatic control unit has nothing more than one 30/40 relay built in from the factory. To be fair, it might have been designed for a smaller aftermarket fan; but the package didn't list any warnings on larger fans. Anyway, it is just triggering the low speed cheap relay so it should never give any problem.

Has anyone traced down the stock Ford circuit to see what amperage relays they used to control the fans? Might be interesting. As far as alternators go, I used a stock 10SI 63 amp for years. With it working pretty hard all the time the case got hotter than I really liked, but it never did give out. I've since went to the new open frame GM alternator with the big bearings, and it runs cool. Not a bad choice at all, since replacements are available at any auto parts store - which is nice if you are miles away from home and "need it now". They are also becoming very plentiful in junkyards for cheap.

Also, I've read that dual relays won't work because one always closes the circuit before the other, but they seem to work fine sharing the load.

[grandville455]

Mick what is the part number on that alt u use now?.. Im not real wire savvy,lol.. that is why i thought i would try the hollisters setup..

[Tripower455]

grandville,

I'm gonna bet you'll need more alternator than stock. With the original 63A alternator, and just the Taurus fan (using a DCControls controller) and MSD box going, my voltage would get so low that it would not be able to power my LM-1 box. I got a low voltage warning on it when the fan ran full out.

I put in a CS144 and all is well.