[grandville455]

Originally Posted by Tripower455

grandville,

I'm gonna bet you'll need more alternator than stock. With the original 63A alternator, and just the Taurus fan (using a DCControls controller) and MSD box going, my voltage would get so low that it would not be able to power my LM-1 box. I got a low voltage warning on it when the fan ran full out.

I put in a CS144 and all is well.

will this one work?

This is a New Genuine GM, AC Delco Factory Remanufactured OEM alternator. It is a 85amp, Heavy Duty alternator with the regulator at 9:00. The GM OEM part number is 1985875. The AC Delco number is 321-239. It fits the following vehicles:


CHEVROLET
1982 Camaro 5.0L v8
PONTIAC
1982 Firebird 5.0L v8

[lust4speed]

The alternator I use is a CS130D. I like this alternator because of the open design, it's smaller and a pound or so lighter than the CS144, the electronics are outside on the back away from heat, it has very large bearings, and it has two fans - inside front and inside rear and runs very cool.

Stay away from the CS130. It is a solid case, small bearing, internal regulator, and problem prone. For some reason Delco named their new-from-the-ground-up alternator the CS130D. No parts are interchangeable with the old CS130. My 2008 Duramax diesel came equipped with the CS130D alternator.

The CS144 alternator is also excellent, and it can be had in very high amperages. It is larger and heavier than the CS130D. I know that there are a ton of CS144's in the pick-a-parts and ebay.

On either one, you have to make sure that the proper mounting locations are present to bolt into our old mounting system. Many new alternators have solid mounting points. I avoided the hassle and purchased my 120 amp CS130D new from http://www.qualitypowerauto.com All you have to specify is to have it set up for the V-belt pulley and clocked for a Pontiac. The business is local to me and one of the owners is president of our car club. Wheelspin also uses them for his alternator needs.

Edit: forgot that you would also need the adapter cable that they also carry. Mine is set up as a three-wire and I have a working idiot light and remote voltage sensing.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

The alternator I use is a CS130D. I like this alternator because of the open design, it's smaller and a pound or so lighter than the CS144, the electronics are outside on the back away from heat, it has very large bearings, and it has two fans - inside front and inside rear and runs very cool.

Stay away from the CS130. It is a solid case, small bearing, internal regulator, and problem prone. For some reason Delco named their new-from-the-ground-up alternator the CS130D. No parts are interchangeable with the old CS130. My 2008 Duramax diesel came equipped with the CS130D alternator.

The CS144 alternator is also excellent, and it can be had in very high amperages. It is larger and heavier than the CS130D. I know that there are a ton of CS144's in the pick-a-parts and ebay.

On either one, you have to make sure that the proper mounting locations are present to bolt into our old mounting system. Many new alternators have solid mounting points. I avoided the hassle and purchased my 120 amp CS130D new from http://www.qualitypowerauto.com All you have to specify is to have it set up for the V-belt pulley and clocked for a Pontiac. The business is local to me and one of the owners is president of our car club. Wheelspin also uses them for his alternator needs.

Edit: forgot that you would also need the adapter cable that they also carry. Mine is set up as a three-wire and I have a working idiot light and remote voltage sensing.

I might be doing this upgrade to the new 62 Cat Wagon. Is this a drop in replacement for an old 3 wire? Is a CS 144 with 3 wires a drop in. The Tempest has a 1 wire and no external voltage regulator.

Thanks
Dave

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

The alternator I use is a CS130D. I like this alternator because of the open design, it's smaller and a pound or so lighter than the CS144, the electronics are outside on the back away from heat, it has very large bearings, and it has two fans - inside front and inside rear and runs very cool.

Stay away from the CS130. It is a solid case, small bearing, internal regulator, and problem prone. For some reason Delco named their new-from-the-ground-up alternator the CS130D. No parts are interchangeable with the old CS130. My 2008 Duramax diesel came equipped with the CS130D alternator.

The CS144 alternator is also excellent, and it can be had in very high amperages. It is larger and heavier than the CS130D. I know that there are a ton of CS144's in the pick-a-parts and ebay.

On either one, you have to make sure that the proper mounting locations are present to bolt into our old mounting system. Many new alternators have solid mounting points. I avoided the hassle and purchased my 120 amp CS130D new from http://www.qualitypowerauto.com All you have to specify is to have it set up for the V-belt pulley and clocked for a Pontiac. The business is local to me and one of the owners is president of our car club. Wheelspin also uses them for his alternator needs.

Edit: forgot that you would also need the adapter cable that they also carry. Mine is set up as a three-wire and I have a working idiot light and remote voltage sensing.

Mick All I see is the cs 130? I don't see the cs130d on that site ?

[lust4speed]

I found the CS130D listing by clicking:
High Output Alternators
GM Alternators
Non Chrome
Late model Small Case High Output Alternator (internal fan)

I purchased the 140 Amp max - 105 amp idle for $135, 1 spool & 1 threaded ear, and the natural aluminum case. Looks like you will have to call them about the V-belt swap from the serpentine pulley. There was no additional cost and they put the V-belt pulley on. I just called Ron and he said that he would add our V-pulley on the list of options - until then you can just call and talk over your needs.

My old ebay chrome 100 amp one-wire was working, but after missing lane call because of a dead battery I knew it was time to do something about it. The one-wire might have been high amperage, but it must have been all at high RPM. We finally figured out that after leaving the track back to the pits it was only charging enough to keep the idiot light off and not enough to keep the battery up with the fan and water pump running. I figure that by the time I pull up to do my burn out now, the battery is back up from starting, and the alternator is only pulling enough power to keep the battery topped off.
1967Tepest, yes the alternator is drop in, and can be run as an internal regulator three wire, or a one-wire unit by simply connecting the red wire to the battery output terminal and taping off the idiot light wire if you aren't using it. I always ran the old one-wire alternator as a three wire, so I had previously gutted the external regulator and made the direct connections inside of it. With the nifty adapter wire (cost about $6 extra if I remember), all I had to do was connect the yellow wire to the idiot light circuit and the red wire to a pickup point for voltage sensing. For those of you that have not read Madelectrical.com's editorial on why to always remote sense voltage, it is a good read: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml
They also have the wiring diagram to bypass the external regulator for the new internal regulator wiring. Quite a nice site, but I've never seen an update the last several years on their information - luckily most things don't change much.

Oh yeah, the adapter that plugs into the alternator is available either as a pigtail termination or the older plug with both male and female ends. I really could have soldered my wires directly to the pigtails, but went with the older plug on the end that matches the internal regulated alternator terminal. This allows any internal regulator to be quickly substituted in case something does go wrong with the alternator at the track. This adapter will also will allow a very easy alternator conversion if you are swapping over from an internal regulator alternator.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I found the CS130D listing by clicking:
High Output Alternators
GM Alternators
Non Chrome
Late model Small Case High Output Alternator (internal fan)

I purchased the 140 Amp max - 105 amp idle for $135, 1 spool & 1 threaded ear, and the natural aluminum case. Looks like you will have to call them about the V-belt swap from the serpentine pulley. There was no additional cost and they put the V-belt pulley on. I just called Ron and he said that he would add our V-pulley on the list of options - until then you can just call and talk over your needs.

My old ebay chrome 100 amp one-wire was working, but after missing lane call because of a dead battery I knew it was time to do something about it. The one-wire might have been high amperage, but it must have been all at high RPM. We finally figured out that after leaving the track back to the pits it was only charging enough to keep the idiot light off and not enough to keep the battery up with the fan and water pump running. I figure that by the time I pull up to do my burn out now, the battery is back up from starting, and the alternator is only pulling enough power to keep the battery topped off.
1967Tepest, yes the alternator is drop in, and can be run as an internal regulator three wire, or a one-wire unit by simply connecting the red wire to the battery output terminal and taping off the idiot light wire if you aren't using it. I always ran the old one-wire alternator as a three wire, so I had previously gutted the external regulator and made the direct connections inside of it. With the nifty adapter wire (cost about $6 extra if I remember), all I had to do was connect the yellow wire to the idiot light circuit and the red wire to a pickup point for voltage sensing. For those of you that have not read Madelectrical.com's editorial on why to always remote sense voltage, it is a good read: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml
They also have the wiring diagram to bypass the external regulator for the new internal regulator wiring. Quite a nice site, but I've never seen an update the last several years on their information - luckily most things don't change much.

Oh yeah, the adapter that plugs into the alternator is available either as a pigtail termination or the older plug with both male and female ends. I really could have soldered my wires directly to the pigtails, but went with the older plug on the end that matches the internal regulated alternator terminal. This allows any internal regulator to be quickly substituted in case something does go wrong with the alternator at the track. This adapter will also will allow a very easy alternator conversion if you are swapping over from an internal regulator alternator.

Thanks Mick!...

[Blue '66]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

The alternator I use is a CS130D. I like this alternator because of the open design, it's smaller and a pound or so lighter than the CS144, the electronics are outside on the back away from heat, it has very large bearings, and it has two fans - inside front and inside rear and runs very cool.

Stay away from the CS130. It is a solid case, small bearing, internal regulator, and problem prone. For some reason Delco named their new-from-the-ground-up alternator the CS130D. No parts are interchangeable with the old CS130. My 2008 Duramax diesel came equipped with the CS130D alternator.

The CS144 alternator is also excellent, and it can be had in very high amperages. It is larger and heavier than the CS130D. I know that there are a ton of CS144's in the pick-a-parts and ebay.

On either one, you have to make sure that the proper mounting locations are present to bolt into our old mounting system. Many new alternators have solid mounting points. I avoided the hassle and purchased my 120 amp CS130D new from http://www.qualitypowerauto.com All you have to specify is to have it set up for the V-belt pulley and clocked for a Pontiac. The business is local to me and one of the owners is president of our car club. Wheelspin also uses them for his alternator needs.

Edit: forgot that you would also need the adapter cable that they also carry. Mine is set up as a three-wire and I have a working idiot light and remote voltage sensing.

Mick,the CS 130D can be used with the stock alt brackets?

[grandville455]

Mick
What is the depth of that alt? The one I have now is about 4 1/4.. and could only go to 4 1/2, cause then it will hit my valve covers if any deeper...

[redbeard]

Great thread. I'm going to try a Taurus fan on my '62 Bonneville. Socrates, can you tell us more about where you got your thermal switch, and how it's mounted? And also are you using the fan with only 1 speed, or do you have both speeds hooked up? Thanks to all who posted info.

[1967Tempest]

I just ordered another controller for the new 62 Catalina. WIll be installing the Taurus or Mark VIII. I have 2 Mark VIII spares, but have to make sure that they will fit. More to come....

[1967Tempest]

Half way done with the MARK VIII fan in the Catalina. I will post pictures.

Dave

[1967Tempest]

All:
I tried a new company for a radiator. Champion Cooling. The quality is very nice. All welded joints. Ebay for 224 shipped. Not bad for direct fit aluminum.


Here is the Mark VIII fan.



Here is 3/4" trimmed off of the shroud. The rad fits nicely into the engine bay and does NOT rub on the rad.



Here is the rad with the fan mounted. I like to use the push through style of zip ties. I know that some disagree, but I haven't had any issue with them, and makes for easy removal. I did put the rig in the car and hooked it up to a 14.4V Dewalt drill battery. PULLS MONSTROUS amounts of air. If he overheats with this I need to learn how to tune up an engine.. Hind sight, I trimmed off too much near the hoses, but oh well. Look how much of the rad is covered!!!!



Here is the new Hollister relay set-up. I am going to run the fan off of two toggle switches.



Hope this helps out.


I will have more pictures, when the new water pump arrives and I have the set-up in the car.
Dave

[lust4speed]

Running two toggle switches might lead to trouble if you forget to turn one off. At least on my Taurus fan having both circuits engaged has them fighting each other and the fan draws more current and runs slower. I use an on-off-on switch so I cannot forget to turn the other speed off.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Running two toggle switches might lead to trouble if you forget to turn one off. At least on my Taurus fan having both circuits engaged has them fighting each other and the fan draws more current and runs slower. I use an on-off-on switch so I cannot forget to turn the other speed off.

Damn man that is another good one!!!! Honestly, that is the best idea I have heard in a long time......
SOLD!!!

[Gary D]

I have a 95 Taurus fan I just installed in my 67 GTO. I know the BLACK is my ground, the Brown/Orange stripe splits into 2 (is this the high low circuits you guys are talking about?) and there is a Blue wire I have no idea what is does.
I currently cut off the dual leads on the BR/OR stripe wire and am running one #10 wire from a continuous duty solenoid.
The Blue is not hooked up at all.
I would like to ba able to switch from low to high when needed only

[1967Tempest]

the blue on my fan is low and the B/O is high. I can take a picture if you need it.

Dave

[Gary D]

No, I will not need a pic due to when the Blue is hooked to power the fans do not even turn on. I can only assume that the Low speed circuit is not working. I will look into it and try to find another fan motor that actually works.

[grandville455]

Gary U have a pm..

[Gary D]

What is a pm.. ????

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by Gary D

What is a pm.. ????

Post Menta.......uh wait,sorry wrong thread,it's a personal message sent to your online inbox.