[Doug]

Originally Posted by 1965gp

Doug- to be clear you are suggesting leaving the head of the bolt inside the timing cover and having the threaded portion stick out like a stud? Great idea.

Yes. It has to be long enough to come through the bolt hole, pump flange thickness and room for 3 nuts. Once you get the first nut started on a few threads you can remove the string , tighten the nut down loosely against the pump far enough to get the other 2 jam nuts on. You then tighten the 2 jam nuts against each other. Then you hold the jammed nuts with a wrench and tighten the first nut against the pump with another wrench. Leave the jam nuts on for loosening it all up when you need to.

Good luck!

[6t7goat]

Lots of good ideas thanks for all the suggestions. Decieded to just bite the bullet and order a new cover. If I were to repair it I was going to remove it and do it off the car. My fear was that being 40+ years old and knowing it already had a helicoil for a pan bolt ( noticed that when I initially installed). There is always a chance that another hole might strip out. Not worth taking a chance so new it is.

[1969GiPper]

Originally Posted by 6t7goat

Lots of good ideas thanks for all the suggestions. Decieded to just bite the bullet and order a new cover. If I were to repair it I was going to remove it and do it off the car. My fear was that being 40+ years old and knowing it already had a helicoil for a pan bolt ( noticed that when I initially installed). There is always a chance that another hole might strip out. Not worth taking a chance so new it is.

Just in case you’re running a tri-power or have been thinking about someday running one make sure the replacement cover has the indentation for clearance to the tri-power thermostat housing neck.

[tomwadsworth]

If you are lucky enough that it is the outside hole, (closest to the fan) I was able to get a nut on the end of mine.

[gtohunter]

I had a crack running through the back bolthole, and I opted to take a pc of steel, about .312" thick, and drilled/tapped for 8/32 countersunk screws into alum. housing to secure the plate. Drilled and tapped to thread in a stud, and left the existing threads intact. Loctited a stud into the "new" hole, and i figured the width of the plate would distribute the load somewhat away from the hole. Did this in 2008 and it's still 100%.

[Dick Boneske]

Only the rear of the two holes goes through to the interior of the timing cover. I don't know which years, but some Pontiac V8's used 3/8-16 bolts instead of 5/16-18.

I strongly recommend checking the timing chain slack with your fingers while the pump is off. If it's acceptably tight, put a piece of tape or stuff a rag in the fuel pump actuator hole catch chips. You can tap 3/8-16 threads without drilling the hole any larger. Grease in the flutes of the tap will insure a clean cut and avoid chips falling inside the cover. .