#121  
Old 05-10-2021, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by chiphead View Post
Many of those dual-roller chains will gain slack as the roller axles wear in. The double rollers give up a bit of accuracy to gain adjustability and strength for pulling big cams against stiff springs.

I always degree a cam when I install it. I start dot-to-dot, and install it with the cam gear dot at the 6 oclock position and crank gear dot at 12" to make it easier to eyeball the dots really are lined up.

Ok thanks. I’ve never degreed a cam before. I’ve been watching some YouTube videos. With regards to a kit, I see that Jegs and Summit sell one for about $90 and the Comp-Cams one is almost $180! Why the huge difference? Can I get by with the less expensive kit?

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  #122  
Old 05-10-2021, 11:15 PM
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I got a 20 some dollar white summit degree wheel a dial indicator from harbor freight cant remember price wasn't much and I built a piston stop out of a piece of band steel 2" wide 1/4 thick drilled 1/2 inch holes to pick up head bolts drill another hole and welded a nut for the stop bolt


Last edited by Formulas; 05-10-2021 at 11:24 PM.
  #123  
Old 05-11-2021, 05:55 AM
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For the first timer to Cam degreeing I strongly suggest that you get separate parts.
This will allow you to get the Moroso 11" degree wheel as opposed to the 9" in the kits.

This 2"" change makes it far easier to degree the Cam accurately which is why your undertaking this level of precision work in the first place!

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  #124  
Old 05-11-2021, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
For the first timer to Cam degreeing I strongly suggest that you get separate parts.
This will allow you to get the Moroso 11" degree wheel as opposed to the 9" in the kits.

This 2"" change makes it far easier to degree the Cam accurately which is why your undertaking this level of precision work in the first place!

Thx Steve
The Jegs kit comes with an 11” wheel. If I can put the kit together for less, I’m happy to buy it piece by piece, but just wanted to point out that this kit already has the bigger degree wheel.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81621/10002/-1


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  #125  
Old 05-11-2021, 06:28 AM
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https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81621/10002/-1

Meant to post link


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  #126  
Old 05-11-2021, 06:30 AM
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Default Best cast iron heads for 428 street build



Here’s a photo instead

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  #127  
Old 05-13-2021, 03:24 AM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Your new timing chain will do the exact same thing as the old one did.

Do a degree operation with the old chain
and see how much retarded the cam went.

Then add that much advance to the new set-up, to counter the new chain break-in.

Or just degree with both chains for the extra practice/experience/knowing.
then decide

  #128  
Old 06-27-2021, 12:27 PM
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Hi guys. Just getting back to this project after having shoulder surgery last month. I did get the motor buttoned up and was going to paint it today, but I still have a question about the oil pump/pan. When the 428 was in the GTO, I had a Canton pan on it (with the correct pickup). That pan has a little side kick out and I don’t know if it will even fit in the TA. I tried just laying a stock pan on the engine, but the pump pick-up sits too low. Would you just buy a new stock pick-up and swap out the Canton one, or should I get a new oil pump as well?

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  #129  
Old 06-27-2021, 12:32 PM
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191s thru 7M5s, buuuuttt, since ya need forged slugs, get dished (Blower) Slugs and use STD to Ram Air heads.

  #130  
Old 06-27-2021, 12:57 PM
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HIS
The 428 has forged slugs in it. The original 400 WS was rebuilt with those 8-eyebrow low-po pistons. I’m trying to avoid spending any additional money on the 428. I sort of just want to drop it in and go, and then focus my time/money on rebuilding the 400 the right way.

Of course, I say that, but then driving around today I started thinking about selling the 670s and getting a set of the 72cc E-heads for the 428. That probably would not be the most frugal thing to do, would it?

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The frogs take up where they left off.
  #131  
Old 06-27-2021, 02:40 PM
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If your talking D port E heads I say save up if you need to and go for it!

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  #132  
Old 11-21-2021, 10:28 PM
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If your talking D port E heads I say save up if you need to and go for it!
Steve
Just getting back to this since I may be a mess to get aluminum heads as a gift. If I did go this route, would you run the 72cc or 87cc aluminum heads.? I have zero experience with aluminum heads but I think I read somewhere that they can handle more compression. 87cc would probably be a great number for cast iron heads on a 428 + .030, so does that mean the 72cc aluminum heads would work on pump gas?

Also, is there any problem with running a cast iron intake on aluminum heads. I know most guys probably go with an aftermarket intake when running those expensive aluminum heads, but since this would be going on a ‘70 TA with a shaker, my intake choices are limited.

Thanks

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  #133  
Old 11-21-2021, 10:36 PM
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Definitely use 72cc aluminum heads on a 428.

The iron intake will be more than fine, an excellent choice that also happens to fit your needs.

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  #134  
Old 11-21-2021, 11:36 PM
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Thanks b-man.
Another naive question. I read on another forum that the Edelbrock D-ports were better than the other aluminum d-ports for a car that would be mostly street-driven because they have the heat crossover port. Is that true? I live in NJ, and while my cars get put away when winter arrives, I would drive the car with temps in the 40s and 50s as long as the roads are clear of salt.


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  #135  
Old 11-22-2021, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
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Definitely use 72cc aluminum heads on a 428.

The iron intake will be more than fine, an excellent choice that also happens to fit your needs.
b-man
I sent a note over to Butler with couple of questions about parts and my plans for the 428 and they replied telling me that the 72cc E-heads on a 428 would require 93 octane gas and recommended going with the 87cc head. 93 octane is readily available here in NJ, I thought I would only need the 87cc heads f I stroked the 428 (or the 400).

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  #136  
Old 11-22-2021, 09:02 PM
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If you have good 93 octane fuel available consider yourself lucky. I’d bump the compression up with the 72cc heads, higher compression equals more power and better fuel efficiency.

The 87cc heads were produced for 455 builds with 10:1 compression in mind. Nowadays 10:1 compression is kind of on the low side of where most are running aluminum heads.

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  #137  
Old 11-23-2021, 09:24 AM
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FWIW, I am running the Eddy D port 72cc's on a 400 w/ flat top 2262's, which should yield a similar CR to your 428, without any ping issues with a 703 Voodoo or a 2801. Of course being a NJ resident, we do have 93 plentiful, most of it containing ethanol- one benefit to living in this %@#%#% state...that and no vehicle inspection required for anything older than a 1996.

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  #138  
Old 11-23-2021, 01:52 PM
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I highly recommend using the baffled oil pan. My 72 TA oil pressure gauge (unbaffled pan) routinely went to '0' on hard turns.
Forget whether it was left or right. My GTO has suspension work and a baffled pan; no matter how hard the turn the oil pressure never falls.

  #139  
Old 11-23-2021, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkS57 View Post
FWIW, I am running the Eddy D port 72cc's on a 400 w/ flat top 2262's, which should yield a similar CR to your 428, without any ping issues with a 703 Voodoo or a 2801. Of course being a NJ resident, we do have 93 plentiful, most of it containing ethanol- one benefit to living in this %@#%#% state...that and no vehicle inspection required for anything older than a 1996.

Thanks Mark. Do you only run your car on 93? It’s not a big deal to me, but I didn’t realize that there wasn’t more of a safety margin with the aluminum heads. I would probably run a hydraulic roller cam as well. The guys at Butler sent me over a recommendation. I’ll post that later.


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Three times the sound peaks, falls back, peaks again. A throttling back to cruising speed, a dwindling grumble of thunder and...gone.
The frogs take up where they left off.
  #140  
Old 11-23-2021, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by android 211 View Post
I highly recommend using the baffled oil pan. My 72 TA oil pressure gauge (unbaffled pan) routinely went to '0' on hard turns.
Forget whether it was left or right. My GTO has suspension work and a baffled pan; no matter how hard the turn the oil pressure never falls.

Android,
Are you suggesting I just keep the Canton pan? I don’t have an issue with doing that, although I figured that since it fit in the 1967 GTO chassis, it probably wouldn’t work in the Trans Am, but I may be wrong. Let me look to see if there is some kind of part no. on it.


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