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#1
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Billet metering blocks
This is probaby a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway. Whats the advantage to a billet metering block on a Dominator? Or any carb for that matter.. I bought a set cheap, but I dont know if its worth changing them out.
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#2
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Usually the billet blocks are drilled and tapped for threaded emulsion bleeds and restrictions so they can be changed. Not necessarily something you may want to do if you don't have a solid understanding of what fuel curve you are trying to get. Usually best to be done on the engine dyno to get it set properly.
They do look cooler than the cast blocks though.
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Jim 71 Firebird, best 1/8th mile time of 5.02 at 142 at altitude in Vegas |
#3
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Billet blocks also can not have the poricity problems that sometimes take place with the cast blocks which can be a real nightmare to track down!
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#4
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When the blocks were made from Zinc material, there was typically very very little "porosity" ussues, (especially after the Zinc Metering Blocks were Dichromated to the Holley Carb Finish seen for years on carbs.
The aluminum stuff that was cast up had far more issues, (I have been told by people close to Holley Engineering people over the years (offshore parts). The billet stuff for the most part is a bit lighter, it machines nicely, and does have the threaded in orifices in the metering blocks. Only issue is $$$. I have a stock of the basic 3310 780 carb Primary metering blocks which I paid a tenth of the price of a Billet Metering Block for that work fine on NA and Boosted Gasoline applications. I got of these castings where I paid no more than $15 for each carb at the swap meets years ago. The metering blocks do not wear out. If you have the equipment and knowledge to clean and calibrate the metering blocks you can save some cash over time. I could by a pair of Braswell LARGE Dominator carbs for the money I saved in redoing the normal Holley carbs over the years with still good swap meet castings. BUT THE NEW BILLET STUFF SHORE LOOKS PRETTY. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. Last edited by Tom Vaught; 04-01-2021 at 02:25 PM. |
#5
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I tried the cheap metering blocks from Jegs. Carb ran, well cheap.
I run a Proform 850 main body but the rest of the stuff is Holley 850 DP, runs great. This guy will make you custom metering blocks, USA made, knows what he is doing but will cost you at least 100$ each. http://www.performancecarb.com/ I have a pair for my 1050 and the carb runs very nice. |
#6
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Emails with Patrick @ Pro Systems, he says there may be some gains using the billet blocks. But recommended using the carb as is before switching to the billet ones. As stated above the billet blocks have tunable air bleeds and emulsion passages.
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#7
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I have run several sets from BLP, on carbs they have built, very nice finish, and some nice features. For hig latereral G applications the pvcr are set lower in the block in a small recess which is great, rather than at the 3 and 9 0clock positions on a typical Holley block.
Fully adjustable is nice (if you know what you are doing)
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Working on going faster (and now staying dry at the same time !!) |
#8
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