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#41
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Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Fort Worth/Dallas TX area 1966 GTO Fontaine Blue 389 CID Carter AFB Muncie 4 speed (orginally an automatic car) |
#42
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This truck is not the greatest candidate for gravity bleeding, since the master cylinder is mounted low on the frame rail instead of high on the firewall. Lower head will make the siphon effect more lazy. Can you get the master cylinder tipped "down" in front? Park on a hill, jack-up the back end, something like that? DON'T disconnect the brake tubes. Fill the master with fluid. Tickle the brake pedal--air in the master should escape to the reservoir. This can take awhile. Once there's no more bubbles in the reservoir, bleed the brakes just like you did before. Given a choice, I'd prefer to pressure-bleed. Most folks won't spend the money for a decent pressure bleeder, though. I gravity bleed for minor work at or near the wheels--most brake work; but generally prefer to pressure bleed for major work, or work at/near the master cylinder. |
#43
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Thanks for the reply. We only go down to the property where this beast lives once a week most of the time, less in the winter nor do we jack with it every time we are there. Don't really know how long it took master cylinder to empty, but never saw leaks enough on ground under wheels to trigger investigation. Yes we can see and get to all the bleeders, tubing, and flex hose.
It's interesting you mention getting the master cylinder "tipped down" by raising the rear. In one of my conversations with a man at the remanufacturer, he told me a story about one time having to use a fork lift to lift the rear of a similar truck with a forklift to get a good bleed job. Like the wise old man I am, I dismissed this as a BS story since that is opposite of all my limited experience. Just to be clear, this truck has a "traditional" master cylinder mounted on the firewall, it is about chest high on a normal man. There is some kind of one way valve first downstream from that then on to the frame rail mounted "booster" (all flex hose) then out bound in hard lines to the front and rear wheels (dual). I have access to a pressure bleeder but having never used one could not assess the pros and cons of using that method. Again, I appreciate you taking the time to offer your help. Mike Pearson
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Fort Worth/Dallas TX area 1966 GTO Fontaine Blue 389 CID Carter AFB Muncie 4 speed (orginally an automatic car) |
#44
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Most master cylinders are mounted to the vehicle with the front tipped "up", to align them with the pushrod from the brake pedal. Any air trapped in the master cylinder goes forward--"up"--AWAY from the drilled passages leading to the master cylinder reservoir. Finding a way to tip the front down allows the air pocket(s) to move toward the cylinder/reservoir drillings, and applying just a hint of pressure will blow the air from cylinder into reservoir. Pumping too far will move the master cylinder pistons enough to cover the ports--so you just barely tickle the pedal. Maybe the master cylinder pistons move 1/8 inch or so. |
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