#1  
Old 11-20-2020, 01:41 PM
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Ragtop Man Ragtop Man is offline
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Default '66 2+2 - crank window lift nylon rollers

Slowly getting my act together, ordering up parts for the long cold winter to come -

Checked my gut sets from my original Cali car (dry as a bone, plastic crumbling) and it looks like there are two different riveted nylon 'rollers'.

Both are 11/16th diameter, and the shoulders look about the same height.

But the shank (where the rivet passes through) is short on some, longer on others.

Are there two rollers? Has anyone done this repair - which parts did you use? Does not look difficult, but once the rivets are drilled, that's it.

Any help appreciated!

  #2  
Old 02-02-2021, 10:57 AM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragtop Man View Post
Slowly getting my act together, ordering up parts for the long cold winter to come -

Checked my gut sets from my original Cali car (dry as a bone, plastic crumbling) and it looks like there are two different riveted nylon 'rollers'.

Both are 11/16th diameter, and the shoulders look about the same height.

But the shank (where the rivet passes through) is short on some, longer on others.

Are there two rollers? Has anyone done this repair - which parts did you use? Does not look difficult, but once the rivets are drilled, that's it.

Any help appreciated!

I’m wondering if you ever figured this out. I have my driver’s door apart currently to replace weatherstrip and glass, and have been thinking about replacing the rollers as well. Mine are working, but it’s such a pain to pull the door completely apart that I would rather do it now than be forced to do it later.


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  #3  
Old 02-05-2021, 02:34 PM
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Ragtop Man Ragtop Man is offline
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No dice yet.

Just when I get things going... something blows up at work (usually bad) or home (usually good, but distracting.)

I'm just going to order one of everything, and send back anything that doesn't look like it will work.

Gotta be an answer out there someplace. I'm not seeking out the time and expense of PW - as interesting as it sounds.

  #4  
Old 02-19-2021, 11:54 AM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
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Default '66 2+2 - crank window lift nylon rollers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragtop Man View Post
No dice yet.

Just when I get things going... something blows up at work (usually bad) or home (usually good, but distracting.)

I'm just going to order one of everything, and send back anything that doesn't look like it will work.

Gotta be an answer out there someplace. I'm not seeking out the time and expense of PW - as interesting as it sounds.

An update on this topic: I current have my ‘66 driver’s door apart and have replaced the triangular vent window seal & vent window division seal, the vent window glass run channel, and the outer glass window felts. I also buffed the vent window SS trim while I was at it. I have the door side glass manual window regulator out as well and have ordered some rollers that are meant for GTOs of the same year. I have a couple other rollers from OPGI as well and will update this with Information and part numbers as I put this together and figure out what works.

I also replaced my manual vent window regulators with (very nice!) reproductions from OPGI and my driver’s side door handle mechanism (not as nice) because it had a broken return spring and was sloppy. The new side door handle mechanisms are ok, but they do not have the captured nut the originals do, so you have to replace the short OE bolt with a slightly longer nut and bolt + a lock washer or Locktite.

My original vent window regulators were trashed. They no longer held the vent window tightly closed and the handles spun freely. The pic below shows why...


Some other pics that might assist you depending on what you plan on replacing in addition to window rollers:

















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  #5  
Old 03-16-2021, 09:15 AM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
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Another update on the window roller topic specifically. I have completed rebuilding my driver’s side door on my ‘66 2+2 and ended up using 3 of the same size GTO / GM window rollers for each of the three window lift roller positions. Even though the depth is slight different (1/16 to 1/8”) on a coupe, it doesn’t really matter since the entire window lift is not really a precision mechanism (there’s a fair amount of “play” at all roller points). The slight difference in OE roller depths makes no difference and the window rolls up and down perfectly with the new rollers in each position. I included some comparison pictures of the OE window regulator rollers compared to the replacement rollers below.

I also replaced vent window seals, door glass seals, front window run channel, rear glass channel felt, vent window / door trim piece, vent window gearboxes, the door glass mounting bolts, the driver’s-side door handle mechanism, the door handle rod isolator sleeve, and the lower door drainage flaps.

I ended up taking a punch to the corners of the pivoting center square “block” to tighten up the crossbar a bit. The passenger side regulator had a fair amount of play.








I didn’t end up using these pivoting rollers, but they would probably have worked ok as well.


Drilled out the old roller rivets (went a little deep drilling this one out) and used a vent window rivet setting punch to set the new rivets. I ruined the first one, but the subsequent ones were much better. :-)



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  #6  
Old 03-16-2021, 09:50 AM
ben3843100 ben3843100 is offline
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The technique I used to set the window regulator roller rivets was as follows:

1. Fully support the head of the rivet with a piece of solid round metal in a vise. I tried using a small socket the same diameter as the head, but ended up destroying my first rivet because the solid center of the rivet wasn’t fully supported. Also support the regulator assembly so it doesn’t move around. I added some oil to the rivet lip to aid in flaring and rolling the lip over.

2. Flare the rivet head slightly with a regular punch (I ground a spare punch into a 45-ish degree point). One video I watched on YouTube pre-scored the bottom of the rivet with a chisel since it will split on at least one side, but I didn’t do this.

3. I then hit the top of the rivet with the face of a small hammer lightly a few times to continue to spread out the flange and roll the lip of the rivet over.

4. I next used this rivet setting tool which I picked up off eBay to roll over the rivet fully. It’s made for smaller vent window rivets, but it worked just fine for the roller rivets. It took a fair amount of effort and I occasionally removed the tool and checked to see if the rivet lip was tight to the regulator metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-for-Se...-/174167430304

5. Once the rivet was rolled over completely, I tapped it lightly with the face of the hammer to make sure the new lip was seated tightly against the regulator assembly steel and would not spin.

Other than the first rivet I ruined by trying to support the head with a small socket, mine turned out much nicer than the YouTube video I watched where they only used a chisel and a hammer to set the rivet.




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