[Mike S]

I switched to radials front and back. Took the car around the block and while cruising it was a hand full to keep straight. Would wander. After some inspection I noticed the center link was sloppy as hell. Also had slop in the outer tie rod ends. I could move each tire and rim over a 1/4" without the steering wheel moving. I just changed all the steering linkage.
I am setting the toe at home. I need some opinions on settings. My plan is to try and get 0 toe with the front end lifted 2" and get 1/8" toe in at ride height if possible. The suspension has all stock components. How does that sound? Correct me if I am wrong please.

I am trying to remember what I change in the front suspension 20+ years ago. I THINK I changed everything. Maybe 20 years of wheel stands takes it's toll.

[Skip Fix]

Mike the more toe in the more stable at speed. 1/16-1/8 not bad to shoot for. Double garbage bags, or a turnplate help. I bought some turnplates off E bay that helped a lot.

The autocross guys often use a little toe out for quicker turn in on curves.

[Chief of the 60's]

1/8th in.

If you race, I always set toe at "under acceleration" height.

[67Fbird]

^^2 on the "AT RUN HEIGHT" .... CASTER is more important for high speed stability ...more=better

[Skip Fix]

Yes a lot of positive caster helps it center,it can also make it a little hard to steer at low speed (like staging lanes) with manual steering. Mu Camaro has about 5+ and is tough but goes straight down the track.

[AG]

Here's my car getting an alignment at ride height, I used 1/16" toe in with about 4° caster each side and it goes straight as an arrow.

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by AG

Here's my car getting an alignment at ride height, I used 1/16" toe in with about 4° caster each side and it goes straight as an arrow.

You got your own alignment rack?!?!

I'm jealous

[Skip Fix]

Me too! I have the turn plates, a Longacre caster/camber gauge that makes it easy to re zero doing the caster sweep. A single wheel mount almost like yours I can mount the Long Acre magnetic on and a piece for doing toe in with two tape measures.

[Mike S]

I didn't get around to adjusting toe yet. I have been play with caster and camber. Doing it the old fashion way. I hardly had any caster to start with. It was close to 0. So far I got it to +2 and that is about the most I can get with the stock components. I have the camber 0 at ride height and -0.4 with front end lifted 2". I have -2.0 with suspension toped out. I think this is good enough and can start with the toe. Let me know what you think.

I will probably run it to an alignment shop the verify my setup before I go down the track.

[AG]

I used offset cross shafts with stock upper CA to get an extra 2 degrees caster.

[Chief of the 60's]

2" probably won't be enough, unless its a slow, low torque car.

I set my cars at 4"

[77 TRASHCAN]

Had to have my brothers Camaro adjusted on a frame machine. Even with the off set shafts, the adjustment couldn’t be performed, until the sub frame was stretched.

[Mike S]

The car is tuned to run a 10.00 index. Usually 60's are 1.35 with slicks but don't know now with the new radials.

[Chief of the 60's]

Do you have any track photos of the car at 1/2 track or better? That's how I figure my cars.

[Mike S]

I finished up today. I didn't realize the toe changes as much as it does with travel. I ended up with hair over an 1/8 in at ride height, 1/16th in with front end up 3" and 1/16th out when the front end tops out.
I have the front end pretty low. It's 1.5" from hitting the lower a-arm bumper. Will bump steer kits close up the spread on the toe? Do they raise or lower the outer tie rod? Any recommended kits? I seen Global makes modified steering arms.

Also will a taller upper ball joint help with the camber swing?