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69Goat1 · 04-01-2021, 08:32 PM

I just got my all aluminum 535 in the car and it has had issues since day one including on the dyno. I guess my first clue was how no matter what you couldn’t start it from the dyno room and someone always had to be there to help it start. Then on the dyno pulls it would steam a bit out the valve covers and the pull hp lines were erratic in spots but with the parts in the build it appeared 800+ hp was the outcome because even the low points of the pull were above that. We took it to the shop and installed it and got it running in the car but it never ran well to me. It has a moroso oil catch can that constantly steamed and it runs rough even though we tried 2 known carbs on it that ran perfect on similar builds.

I took it to the track Friday night for TNT and it was very hard to start like usual and it builds heat slow like 15 minutes to get to 180 on gas. I made a sucky footbrake 2nd gear leave with a manual VB T400 on accident and it went 9.86 @ 138 but wasn’t happy. When I was coasting at end of the track I looked down and oil pressure was super low like 10 lbs and the temp was 250 even though I left the line at 180. I shut it off and coasted onto the return road. My crew came up and after we got it to cool down some I tried to start it and it wasn’t having it so we pushed it on the trailer. I noticed a bit of milk in the oil...the next day we cut the filter and all looked perfect so topped oil off and started it. 25 psi was all it had and then all of a sudden it jumped to 100 and then settled at 70 warm idle. We figured something had hung check ball but why did it get hot?

I had a CSR electric pump so everyone assumed it wasn’t enough pump for the 535 so I ordered a meziere which I installed today. I filled the radiator, turned the pump on and got the coolant level steady and then with the radiator cap off I cranked it and just cranking it was blowing water out the radiator and when it fired it belched over a gallon. I filled it back to level and it seemed to remain steady then with bubbles and an occasional splash so I put the cap on and let it idle 20 minutes and it only hit 140. It still runs rough...I have a head gasket issue. I am using SCE copper with an oringed block and heads. The block is also dry decked and no coolant holes in the gaskets. Anyone ever have this issue? We did retorque sequence after it cooled off from first warming cycle as was recommended.

tom s · 04-01-2021, 08:42 PM

I just did but was on a wet deck with custom made hybrid copper gaskets for 301 block and std pontiac heads.Cyc were contained but not oil or water.Fire ring was like 55 thou thick and gasket was 43 thou thick.No way for the ring to compress to seal the head-block.Tom

73 TRANSAM · 04-01-2021, 08:46 PM

I am sure you degree the cam but if you didn't I would suspect that is the cause of your high temp and hard start issue. Good luck.

69Goat1 · 04-01-2021, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom s

I just did but was on a wet deck with custom made hybrid copper gaskets for 301 block and std pontiac heads.Cyc were contained but not oil or water.Fire ring was like 55 thou thick and gasket was 43 thou thick.No way for the ring to compress to seal the head-block.Tom

Interesting! Will definitely look into that.

RAIV-Z · 04-01-2021, 09:11 PM

535cid dry deck, double o-ring, 0.080 gasket, boosted. No issues related to gasket sealing.

69Goat1 · 04-01-2021, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73 TRANSAM

I am sure you degree the cam but if you didn't I would suspect that is the cause of your high temp and hard start issue. Good luck.

Cam was degreed...it starts hard because it is blowing compression into the water while it is cranking.

RAIV-Z · 04-01-2021, 09:26 PM

"I have a head gasket issue. I am using SCE copper with an oringed block and heads. The block is also dry decked and no coolant holes in the gaskets."

Are heads dry decked too?

johnta1 · 04-01-2021, 09:27 PM

What's the rocker arm ratios?
No water in the block?
What do you torque the head bolts to?

This is still on gasoline also?

69Goat1 · 04-01-2021, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

"I have a head gasket issue. I am using SCE copper with an oringed block and heads. The block is also dry decked and no coolant holes in the gaskets."

Are heads dry decked too?

Heads are not dry decked.

69Goat1 · 04-01-2021, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnta1

What's the rocker arm ratios?
No water in the block?
What do you torque the head bolts to?

This is still on gasoline also?

1.6
Block and heads have water but using hoses/fittings to get at back of block and heads. Block has no water holes in deck, gaskets have no water holes, heads have water holes.
Not sure of Torque. Engine builder torqued and re-torqued on dyno.

RAIV-Z · 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69Goat1

Heads are not dry decked.

If the head gasket is not sealing I would expect that if you let sit, coolant would leak into a cylinder(s), sit long enough, you will hydro-lock the engine. If you pull the plugs, how do they look. If you crank it, do you see water? How does the drained oil look?

69Goat1 · 04-01-2021, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

If the head gasket is not sealing I would expect that if you let sit, coolant would leak into a cylinder(s), sit long enough, you will hydro-lock the engine. If you pull the plugs, how do they look. If you crank it, so you see water? How does the drained oil look?

Makes sense! First oil change on dyno had a little milk in it but not bad. Seems to be getting worse with time. I was going to do a compression test tomorrow to see if I can find lowest cylinder(s) before I pull it. I pulled one plug so far but battery was so low from cranking to start it the last 3-4 times I have it on a charger now...

RAIV-Z · 04-01-2021, 10:16 PM

Are the block and heads new?

If you can at least narrow it down to a bank, you can pull the head and drill/tap/plug the water holes and see if that addresses the problem.

lust4speed · 04-02-2021, 03:30 AM

My aluminum block was a learning experience. No one-and-done on gaskets or threaded plugs as everything required re-torqing over and over. Then finally things stopped leaking after four times. I am using Cometic gaskets which I think are more forgiving. I've had bad luck with copper head gaskets on iron blocks not fully sealing and didn't want to go with them on the aluminum block. Never had a problem with water into the combustion chambers and just between passages and weeping a little to the exterior. Was almost surprised when the fourth time worked. Mine is wet decked.

slowbird · 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69Goat1

Makes sense! First oil change on dyno had a little milk in it but not bad. Seems to be getting worse with time. I was going to do a compression test tomorrow to see if I can find lowest cylinder(s) before I pull it. I pulled one plug so far but battery was so low from cranking to start it the last 3-4 times I have it on a charger now...

Curious, if the oil was milky on the dyno why wasn't that investigated then?

potentpontiac · 04-02-2021, 08:08 AM

I put SCE Copper with built in O-Rings on my all Aluminum 505. Sprayed the Gaskets with copper coat. Have not raced with them however. Wet deck application. Have run the engine for 20 minutes, NO leaks. Torqued to 100ft lbs. Let me know what you find out.