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#21
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#22
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Well I got around to getting underneath and a look around.
I tightened the oil pan,,,all bolts were loose. I didnt tighten them to the 12 ft/lb, but more 10-11. Last thing I want to do is overtighten and strip on the block. What a headache that would be. I also replaced the drain bolt with the gasket. I attached a few pictures of the rear seal area. There is some leaking going on, but in my uneducated opinion I don't think it's bad, but what do I know? The oil filter/housing is as dry as a bone so I don't think that is a problem area. Also, the oil sending unit thing...if that is the thing at the rear portion of the right side of the oil pan...that is as dry as a bone too. I didn't get the valve covers tightened because I didn't see the ft/lb to torque it down to, so I thought i'd ask here first. Overall I think I am feeling positive. Those oil pan bolts were way to loose to seal right http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/lx4n.jpg http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/zxoj.jpg Last edited by Darth Menace; 12-16-2013 at 08:39 PM. |
#23
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Looks like the rear main has a decent leak. Not much you can do about it unless you want to pull the motor though, so best to get something to put under the car in the garage to catch the residual that drops to the floor after you turn the car off, and make sure you keep an eye on the dipstick.
Unfortunately, these cars are notorious for rear main seal leaks. The rope seals they used in them were not the best design. Re: Valve covers. I don't think I've ever used a torque wrench on valve cover bolts, and I'm not positive, but for some reason 8 ft. lbs. rings a bell. I usually just use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and just snug them up in a criss-cross pattern. The valve cover gaskets are cheap and really easy to change, so if the car is fairly new to me I would probably just change them. |
#24
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As far as the valve covers, they are about $30 here in Canada. I didn`t want to replace them just to test for the leak but wanted to wait until I do the compression test and see if a valve job is needed, etc. I didn`t want to do something just to have to undo it shortly after. I also want new valve covers because mine are ugly, but I read some leak like a seive and that is the last thing I want. I am kind of going in circles with this one. Either way for now I guess seeing how much less it leaks will be rewarding (if it does leak less) |
#25
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Yup,I just use a 1/4" drive ratchet and grab it by the head ,instead of the handle. Easy to overtighten these,just snug em' up.
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. |
#26
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I seriously think it is something odd like a porous oil pan (does that happen with GTO's, because I know it happens with my Viper)
Or it could be the bolt area. I put on the new bolt/gasket and there still seems to be a bit leaking out of the oil pan from the bolt. Either way it's a significant improvement and I will keep and eye on it until I get around to the valve covers |
#27
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Well, it hasn't been driven, but I looked today and in the past 2 weeks'ish there isn't a drip (except through the hole that the main seal cover has in it), but otherwise not a leak from the oil pan area that was tightened up. That's a huge difference than the picture I posted.
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