#1  
Old 02-22-2009, 03:51 PM
david400's Avatar
david400 david400 is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 507
Default 70 GP engine removal

I'm getting ready to pull my engine and transmission out ,and i was wondering if it could be removed from the car in one peace ? it looks like it could. any one ever done that?
Thanks David

  #2  
Old 02-22-2009, 04:56 PM
428ho4spd's Avatar
428ho4spd 428ho4spd is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,318
Default

David, Yes it can and is generally the preferred method. Just be sure to have another person to help you to guide the trans out from from under the firewall.

  #3  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:52 PM
1970gpsj4speed's Avatar
1970gpsj4speed 1970gpsj4speed is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Beavercreek ,OH
Posts: 443
Default

remove radiator and shroud so you dont break it very easy 6 bolts and it will be a piece of cake

__________________


BOB SLUSSER
937-286-4343
  #4  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:15 AM
Blue'69's Avatar
Blue'69 Blue'69 is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Cairo, Georgia
Posts: 497
Default

Its the only way to go. Much easier than removing bellhousing bolts from below!

__________________
'69 GTO Convertible-Liberty Blue/Parchment
'71 Grand Prix SJ 455-Triple Black-Sold
'84 Corvette-Bronze/Bronze
  #5  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:37 AM
david400's Avatar
david400 david400 is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 507
Default

Thank You Gents ,,,,,thats the way ill do it then.

  #6  
Old 02-02-2023, 07:39 PM
X72GPX's Avatar
X72GPX X72GPX is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 255
Send a message via AIM to X72GPX
Default Steps in Engine Removal

Hi,

This is an old thread, but want to remove motor in my 72 GP. I am fine with radiator, shroud, etc, but can someone list out steps, best practices? I have never removed a motor and would rather not mess with the trans. (other than bell housing bolts, of course). Then thinking ahead when reinstalling, how hard is it to line up bell housing to reinstall? Is that why its easier to remove both motor and trans at the same time?

Thank you

  #7  
Old 02-02-2023, 08:37 PM
Sirrotica's Avatar
Sirrotica Sirrotica is online now
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Catawba Ohio
Posts: 7,190
Default

From someone that has done it both ways, and made my living for decades as a mechanic. Leave the transmission in the chassis take the 6 bellhousing bolts out, and 3 torque convertor bolts out. Split the 2 units and pull the engine separately. You may have to come in from the side on your GP, most engine cranes won't reach from the front because of the long nose on the GP, along with the extra engine setback.

If you look in my signature pictures you'll notice a 69 GP race car, I pulled engines in and out of that car for the 3 years I raced it pretty regularly. Pulling just the engine and using a ratchet strap from frame rail to frame rail under the transmission to support the transmission after removing the engine, works just fine. Reinstall, you can raise the transmission up to meet the engine with a floor jack. It's not that hard to get the two units lined up upon reinstallation, just take your time.

One of the biggest obstacles is getting the hood off , and on of a GP, they weigh a ton. Make sure you have some help. The rest is just unhooking wires, hoses, exhaust, motor mounts, throttle cables, battery cables etc. If you look up in a Motors/Chilton online manual, it will give you each, and every step of the operation in sequence. Anyone that has some background working on cars can figure it out pretty easily.

I always leave the transmission in the car, others will tell you they pull the two out together. Having done it both ways, multiple times, I'm pretty sure I know which way is faster, and easier for me. The more mass/weight you have hanging in the air, the harder it is to move the engine crane around, especially with only 1 person.

Leaving the transmission in the chassis, you don't have to pull the driveshaft, speedometer cable, cooling lines, transmission mount, shift linkage, and many times, the transmission crossmember. No transmission fluid on the floor either, and no refill when you put it back together. It saves $20 on fluid, and oil dry. Your chances are probably 50/50 that you'll end up losing at least some transmission fluid when pulling the 2 units as one. Even if you have a dummy yoke to shove into the rear of the transmission, somehow they slip out at the most inopportune times during the procedure. Cleaning up 3-4 quarts of transmission fluid is no picnic.

It may be good time for preventative maintenance to put a new seal in the front pump while you can remove the torque convertor in the car, but be sure you get the convertor fully seated into the pump if you decide to do this operation before you reinstall the engine. Failure to seat the convertor, can ruin your transmission pump in seconds. You Tube video will show you how to make sure the convertor is fully seated before engine reinstall.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...seated+in+pump

Hope this helps you out.

__________________
Brad Yost
1973 T/A (SOLD)
2005 GTO
1984 Grand Prix

100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway?

If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated

The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Sirrotica For This Useful Post:
  #8  
Old 02-02-2023, 11:03 PM
X72GPX's Avatar
X72GPX X72GPX is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 255
Send a message via AIM to X72GPX
Default

Thank you really helpful info!

  #9  
Old 02-03-2023, 10:22 PM
poncho-mike poncho-mike is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,081
Default

Many years ago I bought an engine tilter that is awesome. You hook it to the back and front of the cylinder heads and connect it to the cherry picker. You can tilt the engine as you lift, allowing one person to do the R & R.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	engine_tiler.png
Views:	79
Size:	81.3 KB
ID:	606601  

The Following User Says Thank You to poncho-mike For This Useful Post:
  #10  
Old 02-03-2023, 10:39 PM
b-man's Avatar
b-man b-man is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sunny So Cal
Posts: 16,410
Default

The next step up in ease of operation compared to the engine tilter which in itself is an awesome tool is the Mac’s Pivot Plate.

The engine tilters can run into the firewall and cranking them is difficult sometimes, depending on the angle when you’re lifting high the crank can interfere with the hoist boom.

The Mac’s Pivot Plate is just so much easier to use. I paid a little more than $150 for mine about 5 years ago.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	330334CC-2353-42BC-9791-53D5CE8F165B.jpg
Views:	145
Size:	81.7 KB
ID:	606605  

__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42
1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56
2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23
The Following User Says Thank You to b-man For This Useful Post:
  #11  
Old 02-05-2023, 11:07 PM
brucee70's Avatar
brucee70 brucee70 is offline
Senior Chief
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Kent, Virginia
Posts: 255
Default

Price is about $225 ish now days Amazon, and other places ...need to get one of these. Thx

__________________
1963 Bonneville SW 421HO
1967 Bonneville SW 400
1969 GP 428 4spd
1970 GTO 400 4spd
1970 Bonneville SW 455
1971 GP 400 4spd
1971 Grandville Conv 455
1972 Catalina Conv 455
1972 Grandville Conv 455
  #12  
Old 02-05-2023, 11:12 PM
b-man's Avatar
b-man b-man is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sunny So Cal
Posts: 16,410
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by brucee70 View Post
Price is about $225 ish now days Amazon, and other places ...need to get one of these. Thx
If you have a few trusted buddies who can use one split the cost and share it between you.

__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42
1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56
2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23
  #13  
Old 02-07-2023, 12:25 AM
poncho-mike poncho-mike is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,081
Default

I've seen the ones that bolt onto the carb. The bolts are a little small for my taste when you're putting engine and tranny in together, especially if you have an aluminum intake.

Mike

Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:33 AM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017