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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
04-18-2005, 03:29 AM
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I am in the process of installing factory full quarters on my '70 GTO. Does anyone know if it is possible to install these as the factory did it with the sail panel lip under the roof panel, or do you have to trim the new panel in this area? The factory obviously installed the roof panel after the quarters were installed, and I will not be removing the roof panel and prefer not to screw with it if I don't have to.
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#2
04-18-2005, 03:29 AM
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I am in the process of installing factory full quarters on my '70 GTO. Does anyone know if it is possible to install these as the factory did it with the sail panel lip under the roof panel, or do you have to trim the new panel in this area? The factory obviously installed the roof panel after the quarters were installed, and I will not be removing the roof panel and prefer not to screw with it if I don't have to.
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#3
04-18-2005, 04:06 AM
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I have to do the same thing and I have NOS quarters. You can just melt the lead at the seam and I think you can fit the panel underneath just like the factory.
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#4
04-18-2005, 04:28 AM
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I just received our first repop quarter and am extremely disappointed with it. It is nearly a flat piece of metal with almost no flanges or lips.I was counting on a piece that would go atleast a couple of inches over the edges, especially around the trunk.How could it have hurt to add a little more sheetmetal to work with?
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I can do all things through Christ, which strengthens me.. |
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#5
04-18-2005, 07:26 AM
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I realize that you can melt the lead and I've already done that and have also removed the section of the quarter from beneath the roof. To get the quarter under the roof, you would have to slide it in from below. The concern hear is that there are flanges along the panel that hook over the framework around the side window, so the factory installation looks as though the quarter would have been slid in from the front of the vehicle. Naturally, this is impossible with the roof panel in place. I'm guessing that I'd have to bend the flanges for the side window back out so that the quarter could be slid in from the bottom. I don't want to bend the flanges only to find out later that this won't work. Has anyone had any experience with this?
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#6
04-18-2005, 12:18 PM
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I have most of mine cut away but do not have the back half removed. I kinda stopped in the middle to work on something else. I think I understand what you are saying but I thought I would be able to gently bend the top of the panel to get to slide underneath the roof lip. I don't mean bend it to the point where it creases or anything just a little since the panel is fairly flexible. I guess I will run into the same problem when I go to put mine in but right now I just can't picture the problem in my head.
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#7
04-18-2005, 02:53 PM
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I replaced the B Pillar like you are thinking (except in a 66 gto) and had no problem. THe only problem I had was with those junk repops that teacher teacher is talking about. Good news is that I had a perfect install with minimal issues.
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#8
04-18-2005, 03:55 PM
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I've replaced literally hundreds of 1/4 panels in the past 30 years. You do not want to go in under the roof skin. Odds are that you would gain nothing in the quality of the job because you would be causing damage to the roof skin to cut loose the 1/4 in areas you can't see right now.
Since you have removed the lead, cut your old 1/4 off within that area and cut your new 1/4 to fit within that same area. If possible, have it line up so that you can butt-weld them together within the recess (where the lead was). |
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#9
04-19-2005, 04:27 AM
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400 4spd.,
Thanks for the info. That is exactly what I wanted to hear. |
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#10
04-19-2005, 04:30 PM
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I too have been doing quarters for 20+ years and just about every kind of repair there is. I have a 70 that I installed at the factory seams with no problem with fit or extra damage to anything. It might take an extra set of hands and eyes if your unsure of yourself. Butt welding is a good repair if you sleeve the seam, which is the correct way to do it. A little more work but the repair will be fine. I chose to install the way the factory did, I believe it is easier and a longer lasting repair. Also, make sure you use weld thru primer on all bare metal areas, Sem makes a really nice brushable.
JMO John |
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#11
04-19-2005, 06:40 PM
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Blkbrd, as GTO Yankee points out it is possible to pull it off. My advise to you is do what you feel comfortable with. The methods I described are acceptable within the collision repair industry and the restoration business. Either method should result in a proper repair, as long as the welds are done correctly.
Good luck with your project! |
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#12
04-20-2005, 04:37 AM
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Once again guys, thanks for the info. I'm hoping to be able to attempt the installation this weekend. I'll let you know which way I go.
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#13
04-20-2005, 05:13 PM
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Well said 400 4spd!
Anytime Blkbrd, have fun! John |
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