[roger1]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

Looks great - are you going to run the fuel inlet passenger front?
In hindsight on mine running Chevelle BBC lines would have been better, allowing the feed to go on the passenger side.

That is what I am thinking right now but I'll have to see how everything looks when it's in the car and the accessories are bolted on.
I'm going to install a stock replacement fuel line on the driver side frame rail and am going to bend my own ni-copp 3/8" line to run up the passenger side rail.

[roger1]

I got the fuel lines installed.

The Inline Tube reproduction fit pretty well with a little finagling. It helped that I took detailed photos of the original line before taking it off the frame.



I bent and installed the NiCopp 3/8" line on the p/s frame rail and mirrored the one on the other side. Since this line will be the feed for the fuel injection, I installed a fuel filter with a bracket using an existing frame hole. I didn't drill any new holes in the frame for the entire line.





This is an FI fuel filter with 16mm metric ends. They are very easy to get at any parts store. I have adapters ordered that will adapt the ends to 6AN so I will finish this up when I receive them.



I'll use 6AN fittings on the supply line back at the tank and at the engine for connecting to hoses. This is the flare tool I use for the flares that these use:



This is where the fuel lines enter the engine area:



I will not use AN fittings on the return line. I'll just clamp hose onto that.
I'll will get a double line clamp to replace the zip tie:



Nothing from the machine shop this week yet.

[roger1]

I got a text late today from the owner of the machine shop. My engine is on the dyno. Being set up to run I assume. I'm guessing that now that it's on his machine, it will be top priority to get it broken in and tested and off the machine. I reminded him to call me when he's ready for the test and I will keep my phone on me. I've got to assume it will be early next week unless there are any issues.

Also, the coil spring compressor I ordered a while back is finally off of back order and will be here Monday. I also ordered loaded and black powder coated brake calipers for the front and shoes for the rear and those get here Monday as well.

I received the adapter fittings for the fuel filter and got that done. I also installed the new bushings and rollers into the door hinges and blasted all the hinge bolts. Thread chased the bolts and nut plates as well.

[Brewster]

Looking good and love the updates. Thanks for sharing! Cheers

[roger1]

I shipped off my dash to Just Dashes to get it restored. They will do my glove box door and ash tray as well. Their estimate is 4 months before I get it back.

I installed a line clamp on the fuel lines at the rear and also an AN adapter for the supply line.



Received the coil spring compressor I ordered and got the front springs installed. It's an OTC 7045B and does work well and seems very safe. I got the front brakes installed as well.
After I installed the first spring, I realized how much easier it would be to use the tool if I had 1 1/4" ratchet wrench. I was surprised but Home Depot had them in stock ($25) so I went down and bought it before doing the 2nd spring.







I installed the brake shoes on the rear and finished that up this morning.



I've now got a rolling chassis:







Nothing from the machine shop this week about my engine. I thought it would be running on the dyno by now but I guess not yet.

[Greg Reid]

Excellent progress and craftsmanship, as usual. Is that brake line on the differential an Inline Tube product? I need one and that looks good.
Yeah, those wrenches will definitely spoil you. I've been working on an old import I have here lately. I don't have any metric ratcheting wrenches and I sure miss 'em!

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Excellent progress and craftsmanship, as usual. Is that brake line on the differential an Inline Tube product? I need one and that looks good.
Yeah, those wrenches will definitely spoil you. I've been working on an old import I have here lately. I don't have any metric ratcheting wrenches and I sure miss 'em!

Thanks Greg!
Yes, I got the complete brake line kit from Inline Tube and the 3/8" fuel line on the driver side too. Very good fit on all them.

Yes, metric wrenches sure make life a lot easier. I bought a standard set and metric set a few years ago. Both Sunex. Should have gotten them way earlier. Most things that are 1 1/4" you can get a socket on but not this spring compressor.

[Bruce Meyer]

I have a suggestion. Test fit the engine and trans and check the clearance between the oil pan and front crossmember. Todays motor mounts seem a little smaller and the pan will just touch the crossmember. Or it will be so close that engine movement will make it rub. Ames sells 1/4" plates that go under the frame mounts to fix this. Better to find out now before the whole car is put back together.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Bruce Meyer

I have a suggestion. Test fit the engine and trans and check the clearance between the oil pan and front crossmember. Todays motor mounts seem a little smaller and the pan will just touch the crossmember. Or it will be so close that engine movement will make it rub. Ames sells 1/4" plates that go under the frame mounts to fix this. Better to find out now before the whole car is put back together.

Thanks Bruce, I have read about this issue before. I don't expect to have this problem but will check it very soon. The machine shop should have my engine done this week and it will go in the frame soon after that.
I did buy THESE motor mounts from Ames and they seem like they are very good quality. They have the heavy steel like from back in the day when all these parts were made in the USA.
As far as I know the car didn't have this problem before. The engine was out of the car when I bought it but I did get the old mounts it was using and they were the same cheap looking Korean mounts that I think most of the parts stores sell right now.

[roger1]

It's been a while since I've posted an update but I have been working on various items.

I made the proper cut on the inner hood structure to be able to install the '68 style ram air hood pan and here it is mocked-up in place:



I used the procedure exactly as PurelyGTO68 documented in this thread:
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=809815

I also opened up the original hood scoops. I was surprised how much metal had to be removed. Got them blasted in my cabinet afterwards.





I blasted both sway bars, painted them with cast iron engine enamel and got them installed. Installed the KYB Gas-A_Just shocks too.







The front bar is the original 1" bar and I went with urethane bushings and the rear is an aftermarket bar which is also 1".

Got the core supported painted today using SPI black epoxy primer:





I did hear from the machine shop last Friday afternoon. My engine seems to be running well but he was having trouble with his electric fuel pump shutting down after a few minutes of running. So he wasn't able to do the dyno run yet until he solved the issue. I was there and took a short video. It does sound good so far. Oil pressure was excellent and the fuel pressure was right on until his pump would quit. After a few minutes of sitting the engine would start again and run fine for 2 or 3 minutes and then the pump would quit again.

https://youtu.be/eLqGebJTVaA

I figured he would have the issue with his fuel pump solved on Monday but today is Wednesday and I haven't heard back from him yet. He knows I want to be there when he does the dyno run.

[3 Chiefs]

I just want to say that I really enjoy this build. I look forward to your updates. I also very much can appreciate the work you are doing and the quality also. You certainly have some skills. Thanks for sharing your build.

Paul

[Ben M.]

I agree, this is probably one of the coolest builds I've seen lately and I enjoy watching it. I personally wish this was something I could do on my cars, just to ensure they'd be around for another 50 years! And they'd probably drive like they came off the showroom floor (with a little more power...).

[roger1]

Originally Posted by 3 Chiefs

I just want to say that I really enjoy this build. I look forward to your updates. I also very much can appreciate the work you are doing and the quality also. You certainly have some skills. Thanks for sharing your build.
Paul

Originally Posted by Ben M.

I agree, this is probably one of the coolest builds I've seen lately and I enjoy watching it. I personally wish this was something I could do on my cars, just to ensure they'd be around for another 50 years! And they'd probably drive like they came off the showroom floor (with a little more power...).

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the kind words and that folks appreciate I'm putting this online. Sometimes I think I might post too many details for some people but as they say, "it's all in the details".

I have some new news that I will be posting in just a little while.

[roger1]

I got a call from the machine shop this morning and he said come on down. He had done some dyno pulls on the engine and would do one more when I got there.
I was quite surprised how well it did. You can hear the shock in my voice:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opyoQKBO7aM

So 425HP at 5,000 RPM and 480 TQ at 4,100.



Here's the engine specs again so you don't have to go way back in my thread to see them:
Original YS block bored .040
Original 62 cast heads with new valve job, valves and Lunati springs
Lunati Voodoo 19510702 flat tappet cam kit
Dished KB pistons - should yield a compression ratio around 9 to 9.5 to 1.
Edelbrock Pro Flo-4 EFI kit w/ 29lb injectors and 58psi fuel pressure.

I just got home with it. My El Camino weighs a little more and my wallet a little less.

[Verdoro 68]

Pretty solid numbers! That’s almost identical to the set up in my engine sans fuel injection. Now I have a ballpark of what it should be putting out. I need to be driving more in the upper end of the RPMs!

[will slow gto]

I’d be very happy with those #s too. Basically just a cam swap and Ram Air exhaust manifolds got you 75 hp over stock. Would be interesting to see the difference between the EFI vs. a well sorted quadrajet but I’m sure others have tried that. Thanks for sharing all the details of your project!

[Greg Reid]

That IS impressive... I have a similar setup also. Little less lift and a little more duration on my Crower cam. I guess I better install that 3.55 rear to get my car into it's power band a little quicker.

Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk

[roger1]

I hope to get a transmission in a couple of weeks. I might reach out to Art Carr and see if it is still on track to get it then.

[roger1]

First, I took the data from my dyno results and used google sheets to create a chart:



It's been over a week since my last post but have been spending at least some time on the car each day. A lot of that time has been for online research and ordering some things. After mocking up the new stock type starter I was given with the car, I decided I wanted to use a smaller gear driven type. Quarters just seem very, very tight with the original starter and the ram air exhaust manifolds.
I went with a RobbMc Performance mini starter.

I did a bunch of research on A/C to decide what I wanted to do with the entire system and made a decision on a compressor. I ordered a Pro6Ten from Old Air Products. This compressor is a bolt-in replacement to stock A6 type compressor and it allows me to use the original accessory brackets. It's a 10 cylinder vs the 6 cylinder A6 and doesn't require the use of a muffler like the A6 does. It also weighs less than half of an A6.

I also spent some time researching what I wanted to do for an alternator as I wanted an updated one with an internal regulator. I came across this one from Quick Start and had a long talk with the guy that builds them. I was impressed and went ahead and ordered one.

I got those front frame brackets corrected by welding the ground out area and then grinding them back to the proper shape:
Before:



After:



I've been working on the accessory drive on the engine. First this shows what I was given by the seller of the car as far as brackets and pulleys:





I had quite a puzzle to figure out here. I found diagrams online and that helped a lot. I was able to determine that one bracket was missing and 2 of them don't belong to this car. I ordered the missing bracket (front alternator brace that bolts to the water pump) and also ordered the bolt, washer and spacer kit for the aluminum compressor bracket as those were all missing too. I have already received both of those. I blasted the 2 aluminum brackets and painted with aluminum ceramic engine enamel. I think they look better painted. I blasted and painted all the pulleys too. Here they are mocked up in place:



Old ugly alternator mocked up in place:



Some of the bolts were missing and some I want new ones for. I've got an order in for those that hasn't come yet so I mocked it up for now with some bolts I scrounged up.



I can't use this original bracket that I show laying there on the valve cover. There's no bolt holes in the Edelbrock manifold to mount it to. I think it will be just fine without it though especially since the compressor I'm going to use weighs so much less. I think the bracket is kind of ugly too.

Today, I sprayed SPI red epoxy primer on the 4 rear interior panels that I blasted a while back. I needed to get this done as I heard from Ames this week that the front seat foam that had been backordered was finally shipped off to me. I will take all this stuff down the interior shop when the order gets here.







Ready and waiting for a transmission:



I did talk to Art Carr this week to get a status. He said he was waiting for a call from his supplier to give him an update on the clutches he needs and he will let me know when he hears. He says they previously said by the end of the month.

[Scarebird]

I am wondering about those bumper brackets - mine were exactly the same. I wonder if the factory goofed and they had some poor bugger with a torch opening up the holes?

Was your car hit in the front?