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Old 05-01-2021, 12:00 AM
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Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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This must be single stage paint?
I will assume the sealer was dry too long and should have been scuffed. That's too bad.
Well, ANY manual labor, stripping, or sanding , cleaning, masking, etc. will help because Nobody wants to do it, Even at a shop rate of 80+ dollars/hour.
They usually don't do much stripping or sanding in a insurance repair shop.

  #42  
Old 05-01-2021, 10:42 PM
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fyrffytr1 fyrffytr1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulabruce View Post
This must be single stage paint?
I will assume the sealer was dry too long and should have been scuffed. That's too bad.
Well, ANY manual labor, stripping, or sanding , cleaning, masking, etc. will help because Nobody wants to do it, Even at a shop rate of 80+ dollars/hour.
They usually don't do much stripping or sanding in a insurance repair shop.
Base coat clear coat. The sealer was on the car a year before it was painted. I hope I get hands on experience in prepping and painting because I have two more projects that I want to do on a shoe string budget.

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  #43  
Old 05-02-2021, 01:52 AM
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Formulabruce Formulabruce is offline
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The sealer and under it could still be good. That sealer though needs a thorough scuffing of the whole surface, then a cleaning with WB, and then Solv W&G removers.
Then use 2 tack rags on it.
Sealer is usually a form of epoxy, and it can get really hard and "protective".
The Base will need something with teeth on it to stay put as the clear coat will glue it all down.
NO shiny spots on that sealer.. Zero....

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  #44  
Old 05-02-2021, 10:15 AM
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Thanks for the tips. I am sure the painter I am going to use will know what to do. But, I can use these tips when I try to paint one of my projects.

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