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  #21  
Old 03-28-2018, 03:54 PM
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Chris Petersen Chris Petersen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adynes View Post
Were you trying the "remove 7 teeth" method? Did you try a shielded cable for the wiring between the module and the ECU?

I grabbed the factory wiring harness with my HEI 7pin module from the salvage yard. It had a shielded cable for the wiring from the module to the ECU.
Best thing to do is take the HEI module and toss it in the spare parts pile. I burned up a few, and had noise issues too.

What I did, and plenty of others have done is to lock the weights so it dont move, and use the reculter wheel and hall sensor (I think it is a hall effect sensor, been running for 2 years, have forgot) to trigger off of the 8 teeth. Have to run a shielded wire to it, and I also had to put a small resistor in line to keep noise out, to have a clean signal.

The "remove 7 teeth " is to use the dist as a cam sensor, for the way I am triggering it, you need one tooth per cyl.

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  #22  
Old 03-28-2018, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Petersen View Post
Best thing to do is take the HEI module and toss it in the spare parts pile. I burned up a few, and had noise issues too.

What I did, and plenty of others have done is to lock the weights so it dont move, and use the reculter wheel and hall sensor (I think it is a hall effect sensor, been running for 2 years, have forgot) to trigger off of the 8 teeth. Have to run a shielded wire to it, and I also had to put a small resistor in line to keep noise out, to have a clean signal.

The "remove 7 teeth " is to use the dist as a cam sensor, for the way I am triggering it, you need one tooth per cyl.
My dist is locked out and I am using an HEI 7 pin module with the Megasquirt for spark control without issue. Works perfect. My last post was for socalgoat, I'm trying to figure out what he tried and had trouble with before going to an aftermarket dual sync.


Last edited by adynes; 03-28-2018 at 04:29 PM.
  #23  
Old 03-28-2018, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adynes View Post
My dist is locked out and I am using a 7 pin HEI module for spark control without issue. Works perfect. My last post was for socalgoat, I'm trying to figure out what he tried and had trouble with before going to an aftermarket dual sync.
All good. I would like to know too, I could not get the HEI module to work for me.

There are a few threads in the Boost section about EFI conversions, good reading for sure.

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  #24  
Old 03-28-2018, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Petersen View Post
All good. I would like to know too, I could not get the HEI module to work for me.

There are a few threads in the Boost section about EFI conversions, good reading for sure.
I actually burned my first module (from the junkyard) because I didn't realize there was supposed to be heat sink compound between the module and the distributor body. The replacement came with the compound, and I haven't had any trouble with it.

  #25  
Old 03-29-2018, 09:50 AM
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I could not get a consistent Rach signal for some reason. I tried a number of things detailed in megasquirt manual. Pull up resistor, shielded cable, teach filter, different modules. My dist was not stock so not sure if that was it I could never figure it out. Tach signal and O2 sensor readings are the 2 most important signals an ecu needs.

  #26  
Old 03-31-2018, 09:17 PM
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So the ECU arrived today, though I'm not ready for it just yet... Along with it, some added confidence about using my current injectors as it has a test function to be able to determine dead times. I believe I have the right info, but it will be nice to be able to verify it, provided I can figure it out... Trigger wheel came in too, that will be the beginning step for me, getting it installed along with the sensor mount. Major things left to procure are wideband and coils, along with the aforementioned cam sync. I sure hope I'm not in over my head...
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  #27  
Old 04-02-2018, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott65 View Post
So the ECU arrived today, though I'm not ready for it just yet... Along with it, some added confidence about using my current injectors as it has a test function to be able to determine dead times. I believe I have the right info, but it will be nice to be able to verify it, provided I can figure it out... Trigger wheel came in too, that will be the beginning step for me, getting it installed along with the sensor mount. Major things left to procure are wideband and coils, along with the aforementioned cam sync. I sure hope I'm not in over my head...
Very nice.

Whos trigger wheel are you using? How is it mounted?

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  #28  
Old 04-02-2018, 11:08 AM
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Ordered one with Megasquirt, 36-1. Gonna do some experimentation on the mounting. I don't want it behind the balancer, but I don't really want it sandwiched between the balancer and pulley either. I think I'm gonna see if I can have the pilot hole put in it for the balancer hub first and work with it from there. I run a big enough balancer pulley that I'm hopeful I can put the boltholes closer to the outer edge, machine away what would be physically between the pulley and balancer, and retain my current pulley spacing. If that won't work, then I'll sandwich it, and modify my spacing accordingly. I have a hall sensor from a Cummins diesel I will mount to read the wheel.

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  #29  
Old 04-02-2018, 01:05 PM
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I got one off a member here that had some made, that bolt to the back of the balancer. I still have not used it, I didnt like the idea of drilling holes in a SFI balanser. I also bought a Mallory dual sync distributor, but that too is in a box never used. So far running batch fire works for me, someday I'll upgrade haha.

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  #30  
Old 04-02-2018, 01:07 PM
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I'm right there with you on the drilling holes in a SFI balancer. Not going that route...

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