[Gooatee]

I would like to hear from others about the mods you have made on the suspensions of your Ventura's! Very much interested in those of you that are running into the 11's and beyond! I am looking to break into the 11's this season and I am still running the stock suspension and rear! I know I am on the ragged edge and getting ready to go beyond that point! Some ideas would be nice! [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img]

[Gooatee]

I would like to hear from others about the mods you have made on the suspensions of your Ventura's! Very much interested in those of you that are running into the 11's and beyond! I am looking to break into the 11's this season and I am still running the stock suspension and rear! I know I am on the ragged edge and getting ready to go beyond that point! Some ideas would be nice! [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif[/img]

[Rob B]

My car use to run in the high 11's consistently and the only thing I had done was remove the front sway bar, add ajustable shocks, and welded in adjusted travel limiters in the upper control arms where the rubber bumper used to be. In the back all I did was install 2 cheap $7 shocks and a good set of traction/slapper bars with frame connectors. Never had a problem with traction using a 9" slick or hoosier quick time pro's. Car was and is still driven on the street. This past year I switched heads and cam and now run in the 11.00's with a 10.99 one time and traction has been an issue. I plan on switching to some Cal-Trac bars because I have heard nothing but good things about them and replacing my shocks all around. The ones on it now are over 13 years old! Hopefully this will solve the problems I have now because the car still has a relatively stock appearance and I want to keep it that way.

[Gooatee]

Rob, what are you using for a rear? I am still using a 10 bolt 8.5 stock rear with little or no mods other than the Richmond 4.10 gears!?!? The car hooked very well last season with stock suspension DOT slicks and slapper bars but, I want to be prepared for the new combo!

[74redgto]

Hey guy's, Curious if you have put in the subframe connectors on your cars. I just bought a 8.5" 10 bolt w/strange axles, posi unit and 3.73 gears in a stalled project Nova, I also got the bolt-on subframe connectors.

[BigB]

"Detroit Speed and Engineering's exclusive billet aluminum offset shackles are designed to relocate the rear leaf springs inboard to accommodate larger rear tires. These offset shackles have been computer modeled, tested, and then CNC machined. They will relocate the rear leaf spring inboard to accommodate 335 tires with a section width of 13.5 inches. The shackle offset is 1 3/4". Use these shackles along with with our other mini-tub components to complete your project. The kit includes 4 offset shackles and Grade 8 fasteners."

www.detroitspeed.com

I am thinking of trying these.

[Rob B]

Goatee,
I have a 12 bolt now with a spool and 4:11 gears but only changed to that (the spool) when I put the e-heads on and put my T-brake back in. But prior to all the changes, I ran the same 12 bolt with a 3 series carrier with the "fat gear" and stock axles and got lucky for all them years! I am going to ckeck out the offset shackle idea if I can do something like that without cutting the wheelhouses out.

[Rob B]

Okay, Checked out the webpage.....WAY TO EXPENSE FOR ME!!! figure something else out!

Yes, I am using the subframe connectors with no problems and when they were installed, didn't have any issues from what I can remember, that was back in 87!

[tikiklubracing]

If you are making your passes on tune & test at Edgewater this may be your traction problems.BIGGERISBETTER

[Rob B]

I here you on that one! I've been running down at Thornhill all late last summer/fall, contrary to beliefs, that place hooks, they treat there track. Tune and test at Tri-state. Less cars, better traction even on tune & test. I'll race Edgewater for the street tire race (muscle car Sunday) and maybe bracket race on Sundays when basically no one else is open. I quit patronizing Wienle when I had a .540 red light back in 93, that was after he had just replaced his scoring/timing system and was having weekly problems. Nice facility, sh$tty track. :mad

[Gooatee]

Yes, as for the subframe connectors I will be running them this season! I am in the process of getting the weld in connectors and a 10 pt. cage installed as we speak! As for the offset hangers there is a cheaper route! Comp. Engineering makes a set of the spring relocation hangers also! Much cheaper and from what I hear they work! Both sets will require welding new perches to your housing and relocation of the shock mounts, from what i understand. I think for best results you need to split the wheel tubs andmove them in. I am thinking real hard on this subject! Now to find a 12 bolt or 9" housing to make this deal work!

[John Bailey (GTOKID)]

If you get the bolt in kind you do not have to move springs... My frist 74 that ran 11.40's 455 hyd cam motor with stock rear with 4.10's and a miny spool. also with j-bolt t-bars and bolt in conecters.

[This message was edited by GTOKID on January 03, 2003 at 03:25 AM.]

[John Bailey (GTOKID)]

I went 10.45 127(RA4 455 solid lifter motor) with a 74 with bolt in sub frame connectors and j-bolt traction bars and 3.90 gears in the stock 10 bolt with a miny spool. 1.44 in the 60 ft. Then ran 10.37 127(6x 455 with a roller) then had Quay put in a full cage and miny tub car. He made offset hangers fully welded rear, shorted stock gas tank and lightened car a bunch was 3555lbs after working on her she was 3260lbs I sold car to Allen Ailler he runs 10.30's with E heads and a 455 solid lifter. To make a long story short car ran the same 60 ft with all of the trick work. and if you look at how fast a lot of other cars run with stock suspention you can see you do Not need to change much to get them to run. Just my exp... PS my stock junker ventura has run a 1.98 60 ft

[BigB]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gooatee:
Yes, as for the subframe connectors I will be running them this season! I am in the process of getting the weld in connectors and a 10 pt. cage installed as we speak! As for the offset hangers there is a cheaper route! Comp. Engineering makes a set of the spring relocation hangers also! Much cheaper and from what I hear they work! Both sets will require welding new perches to your housing and relocation of the shock mounts, from what i understand. I think for best results you need to split the wheel tubs andmove them in. I am thinking real hard on this subject! Now to find a 12 bolt or 9" housing to make this deal work!

http://kurtsplates.homestead.com/files/gooatee.jpg <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If your interested, I have a 9" rear i'm looking to get rid of. I see that you are in laurel. I am in Leonardtown MD (St. Marys County). If you are interested you can email me at svt_2kl@hotmail.com.

[Gooatee]

BigB you have mail!
GTOKID
The J-bolt traction bars you are refering to, are they the Lakewood or something else? Did you extend them to meet the spring eye?
My car was 60 footing between 1.65 and 1.7 for the most part on stock suspension McCreary 265\60\15 DOT tires and Lakewood cheapo slapper bars!!!! I just wanted to be prepared for traction problems this season due to motor upgrades!

[John Bailey (GTOKID)]

they were comp eng J-bolt t-bars. I see a trend for guys to spend more on suspentions thinking The more I spend the faster I will go... BUT I have a friend who runs Real Street. Over the yrs he had a few different types. Frist he has south side lift bars best 60 ft 1.39. then tried Cal tracks best 1.39 60. Then used Ed Quay 28in ladder bars 1.39 AGAIN!!! Then he put a 36in set best 60ft was 1.34 (but not right away AND rember all this time he has been getting more and more HP as well as trying different converters and rear gears, and trans gear sets, and stiffing up the car. This winter he has redone the ladder bars again to thicker molley bars. this car has been 9.01 at 151 mph but due to 12.5 ET street tires and a SUPER high RPM range the car leaves kinda "soft" to hook on poor tracks in the summer heat. He has left nothing to chance testing every part himself. But I think if you are only trying to run low 10's or high 9's stock type bolt on J-bolt t-bars and bolt in connecters are just fine.