[gto4evr]

Hello, sorry for what seems like a basic question but I'm not finding anything in the searches.

I just replaced the flywheel and clutch in my 69 GTO with a RAM 11" setup. (this is a stock 400 w/ Muncie M20) I'm pretty sure the clutch failure I had that died in 5K miles and 16 years and ate the flywheel was because I had the original clutch adjusted too tight. the last one was also a much heavier duty clutch (no memory of brand) with the 8 springs and cintered metal plates on the disc vs this organic standard clutch setup I just put on so pedal pressure feels like half of what I'm used to.

per the instructions, I adjusted the arm to just take out the slop of the throwout bearing so it has no pressure on the plate release springs. I had my son push the clutch in to the floor and I could turn the driveshaft while listening to the disc scuff on the flywheel while in gear.

I just did the maiden voyage drive and that clutch is disengaging when pushed to the floor but it's grabbing immediately the second the pedal moves up off the firewall. Now I know there's a bunch of variables changed here with going to 11" setup vs 10-1/2, 35# flywheel instead of 30# and 17 years of driving the car with a completely different pedal feel but it just doesn't seem right to engage without any real travel of the pedal

am I still too loose on the adjustment and the disc shouldn't have any drag at all? or should I be waiting til the disc breaks in and then adjust? Or am I going to overheat the flywheel because there's still some contact while disengaged even though I don't see any dip in the rpms and it drops to idle?

I think I'll go out there and maybe tighten the fork rod a turn or two to see the result while I wait for some expert opinions!

Thanks,
Dennis

[RFCOLEMAN]

I put a Ram clutch and pressure plate in my 68 GTO a few years ago. Same issues as you are describing. It works, but it doesn't feel right and act the way I am used to. Soft feel to the pedal, and you have to push it to the floor to shift. I have had similar issues with clutch and pressure plates over the years. I am convinced it is in the pressure plate manufacturing.
The next clutch I put in a 69 GTO, was a HAYS clutch and pressure plate. It adjusted and worked just like they did back in the day, so to speak.
The Ram stuff is still in the 68, and works, but the next time, I will be putting a HAYS in my car.
Just my .02.
Bob c

[Formulajones]

What you for sure don't want to do is adjust the clutch rod to the point there is no play at the fork/bearing. That just causes the fork to continuously ride the bearing and you don't want that. It will prematurely wear the bearing and pressure plate fingers.

There should be at least a little wiggle room there. If that makes the clutch not disengage or makes the pedal too close to the floor then you have other issues.

Either a worn or sloppy linkage that isn't applying all the mechanical movement or a faulty pressure plate or.....

[6T5 Cat]

What is your air gap adjustment? It should be around .050 depending on the manufacturer specs.

[ID67goat]

My guess is that you could have the wrong throw out bearing, clutch fork, etc.

It has been a while, but I believe that there are 2 different throw out bearings…a short one and a tall one….I think the Pontiac needs the tall bearing so the clutch will properly disengage at the proper pedal height.

Also I have not had good luck with the aftermarket clutch forks without using an adjustable pivot ball etc. they just seem to have the wrong angle bent into them or something which can cause issues.

[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by ID67goat

My guess is that you could have the wrong throw out bearing, clutch fork, etc.

It has been a while, but I believe that there are 2 different throw out bearings…a short one and a tall one….I think the Pontiac needs the tall bearing so the clutch will properly disengage at the proper pedal height.

Also I have not had good luck with the aftermarket clutch forks without using an adjustable pivot ball etc. they just seem to have the wrong angle bent into them or something which can cause issues.

I've got original fork/bell housing and the new throwout bearing it came with was identical to the one I'd pulled out finger height on the clutch plate also measured same as what I took out.

Linkage is all the same as before, and if anything, I took slop out of it because the rod hole was worn egg shaped which I welded up and returned it to original shape. also replaced the rod spring and installed the pedal return spring that was missing.

the clutch that I replaced was still working mostly fine other than shuddering at low rpm take off, I just noticed it would slip in 4th gear under quick stabs of acceleration so I knew it was dying and tried to get ahead of this. When I pulled the old one out the flywheel was worn with some grooving and the disc was almost gone with wear. So, I replaced the flywheel with the RAM 1557 and then their 11" GM Musclecar clutch.

the fork is forward like it should be, and I get pressure building as I press the pedal, it's just way softer than before which I'm expecting as the difference in the clutch plate springs from the old one, and the clutch is disengaged when I hit the firewall, it's just grabbing immediately as soon as I start lifting. there's no slippage travel so I just don't know if that's because the disc is new and will slip more when it starts to break in or if I don't have it adjusted tight enough but as has been mentioned here and matching my research, the throwout is supposed to be adjusted loose enough for no pressure on the springs.

The longer bearing would just change the position of the pedal and would probably bend something because it would push too deep into the clutch if the pedal hit the firewall wouldn't it?

[gtospieg]

I think you have the right idea... adjust the rod (make it longer) and give it a try. It may take a couple of tries but you'll get it. You will be able to hear if the throwout bearing is riding on the pressure plate if you make it too tight...

[stags]

Is the new flywheel the same thickness as the old one from crank contact surface to outer face? If not you may need an adjustable fork pivot to make up the difference. I had similar problems with a Hayes wheel that no rod adjustment would correct. The distance from pivot point to the outer flywheel surface should to be consistent with the previous working parts.