[scld1354]

I called my trusted radiator shop and was quoted $1,000 to re-core and upgrade my existing radiator to "maxi cool".

The car is a 67 Tempest that is going to get a street (low-revving) 455 (9.1:1 compression, HO cam), a built 200-4R, and a 3.23 posi rear. The current radiator is a Cold Case 2 core unit which does pretty good for the 326. It gets a little warm going up sustained grades but does great around town. The current radiator is thinner than the stock 4 core radiator and the shroud sits about an inch or inch and a half off the radiator. Has new fan clutch, also. I would like to be able to drive the car anywhere, including road trips.

What options do I have other than a $1,000 re-core?

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[ZeGermanHam]

Personally, I'd stick with the Cold Case radiator you already have. It's plenty up to the task of cooling a lower compression 455ci.

[scld1354]

Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam

Personally, I'd stick with the Cold Case radiator you already have. It's plenty up to the task of cooling a lower compression 455ci.

I could always try it out with the Cold Case and work on closing the gap between the radiator and the shroud.

[66sprint6]

Not sure if you have them, but there are factory seals that go all round the A/C radiator. including the top. They help to ensure that the flow of air is directed through the radiator. My A/C fan shroud does sit about an inch or so away from the rad.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362451031576

[george kujanski]

I have the cold case with 455...no issue.Shroud also.

George

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by 66sprint6

Not sure if you have them, but there are factory seals that go all round the A/C radiator. including the top. They help to ensure that the flow of air is directed through the radiator. My A/C fan shroud does sit about an inch or so away from the rad.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362451031576

Agree that the factory A/C seals would be a worthwhile pursuit if scld1354 doesn't have them installed already. They should help considerably with airflow to the radiator at speed.

Something I'd like to know is how much it's actually heating up when going up sustained grades. What kind of temps are we talking about?

[scld1354]

Factory A/C seals are in place. Normal for me on a hot day (95⁰ ambient air temp) is about 200⁰ coolant temp. It will get up to 215⁰ on the inclines.


Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[Murf]

215 isn’t hot. If it were me, I’d work on plugging up the air leaks and run with it.

Murf

[scld1354]

Originally Posted by Murf

215 isn’t hot. If it were me, I’d work on plugging up the air leaks and run with it.

Murf

That's with the 326. I am worried that the small surface area of the 67 radiator won't be able to handle the 455.

[lust4speed]

I've had several 455's and larger in my 67's and didn't need the Cold Case radiator until I installed Vintage Air in the blue GTO -- and haven't gotten around to installing the AC flaps yet. Will only get up to just under 180° going up Cajon Pass or Banning Grade with the AC on. Car would run at thermostat with the AC off with the 15-1/2" old brass desert cooler and HO fan, but I had to go to the 17-1/2" Cold Case with the 19-1/2" fan and shroud to not have temp creep up to 195° or so when running the AC up the hills or being stuck in traffic.

Flashback 30 years ago before all my testing and internet help I would have to pull off and let the '67 red GTO cool off after going up (the puny) Redlands Grade to Yucaipa with a basically stock 400. Really happy those days are behind me.

[scld1354]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Will only get up to just under 180° going up Cajon Pass or Banning Grade with the AC on.

That's where I want to be. My current thermostat is 160⁰ (I think). It was 190⁰ but it was consistently running at 200⁰ and higher.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[lust4speed]

I also only run 160° thermostats on my cars. I figure that a long and steep grade along with the AC load is going to add a bunch more BTU's. If the temp rise is going to be 20° on the system, then I'd rather it be from 160° to 180° than 180° to 200°. My thinking is I want the temperature low at the base of the climb. My system can still be considered somewhat inefficient since it still allows some temp rise, but it is manageable. Maybe after I stop being lazy and get the AC flaps installed around the radiator I might be able to reduce the temp climb to maybe 10° or so.