[scott70]

If you set the clearance at .010 are you pretty much eliminating bleed off and making them act like a standard HFT or how does that work?

[Jay S]

There is still quite a bit of bleed off at .010”. There is actually more bleed of going from zero lash to .010”, than their is going from .010” to .020”. It is because there is more acceleration as the tappet gets pushed further open. I like running them at .010”, they are quieter.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Jay, I believe you have used the V-Pro lifters, also???
Got any words about them???

[Jay S]

The only time you would really require a Vmax over a Vpro is if your are running a lot of lash, .030” or more. The last several sets I have done were Vpro. I think the only difference is the Vpro have a thicker shim. With the lash set same I can’t tell a difference.

[scott70]

Ok...I noticed in the instructions on the vmax that if you are experiencing detonation that you can tighten them up to no less than 010. I think I set mine originally. 015.

[Jay S]

If there is an issue with detonation and the combo needs as much action as you can for low end manors or vacuum for brakes tighten the intake only. You can go down to .005” on the lash on the intake, can even zero lash them cold if you want. Set only the exh side wider.

[Jay S]

If the lifters were set cold that .015” is probably pushing .020” hot. People often blame the oil viscosity for the change in noise when the engine gets hot, which is true for the original Rhoads. Because of the way the lifter is shimmed, with the V type most of the extra (sowing machine sound) noise comes from the expansion rate of the engine increasing the lash once hot. Zero cold on a Vmax is more or less the similar to .005” hot.

[scott70]

Yes that was set cold. When I first start it up its pretty quiet for quite a while but after a while of driving I can here the sewing machine sound at stoplights. I run 15w 40 oil. Right now the power brakes seem to work good all the time. So I could go .005 on the intake and .010 on the exhaust cold?
So rotate until lifter is on the lobe base,,insert feeler between rocker tip and valve tip,,tighten until valve starts to open ,,tighten rocker stud nut set screw? Something like that. That is supposed to push the center of the lifter all the way down away from the top retainer clip. Easier to visually see with valley pan off but Im not pulling all that to have a visual.

[Jay S]

You can go .005” on all the valve’s if you want.

Speedy way to set it in your case is just shy of a 1/4 turn down on the poly locks, should be .005” if your at .015” now.

Or you can go across each lifter, positioned on the base circle, apply pressure so it is bled down, with the only preload being the check spring inside the lifter (usually takes about 20 seconds of modest pressure on the pushrod to bottom the lifter) then insert the feeler gauge and adjust accordingly.

If you crank down the poly-lock to bleed the lifter it will mean starting from scratch on all the settings.

The only things different on setting Rhoads V’s verus setting a solid cam’s lash is making sure the lifter is bled down, and there is some spring pressure yet on the pushrod from the spring inside the lifter.

[scott70]

I had a .008 feeler so I used that. Only ended up with a additional 1/8th turn though from where it was. Haven't driven it yet though. They must of been bled down already because with the feeler installed I would go just a little beyond where I couldn't pull the feeler out and waited for a minute and it never loosened up.

[Jay S]

Yep, it sounds like they were already bled down. Where I have ran into needing to bleed them down was tuning a hot engine.

[scott70]

Lash setting can be different to different people. If I'm setting lash at .010....I use a .010 feeler and make it pretty snug. I can still get a .012 in there but it's hard and a .014 pretty much won't go. How do you do it?

[Jay S]

Originally Posted by scott70

Lash setting can be different to different people. If I'm setting lash at .010....I use a .010 feeler and make it pretty snug. I can still get a .012 in there but it's hard and a .014 pretty much won't go. How do you do it?

That described .012” to me.

[scott70]

Going from 015 to .010 really quieted down the sewing noise at full temp after driving 50 minutes to a car show today. Didn't hear any pinging but then again my wife was with me so I drove normal. Did notice the car is more " rumpy" when trying to drive at low speeds...does a little bucking when driving a constant speed with low rpms.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Jay S

That described .012” to me.

x2

Tom V.

[scott70]

I did have a engine builder tell me years ago that if you can get the feeler in there that's what you got. But have witnessed other people not go that far with that statement.