[461-69bird]

As my solid roller is damaged I'm looking at my cam options. Can't really justify replacing it with another roller because of the price and how little I use the car now.

I still have my previous cam a 290b. I used that with my same heads and a T2. I now have a Victor and the heads flow 300 from 260. Would the 290b work with the Victor or am I better off putting the T2 back on?

I assume the springs from the solid roller are too much for the 290b. The lift on the roller is .690, would the pushrods need replacing if I used the 290b?

[AG]

If your SR is a billet it can be repaired by welding and then reground. I had CC do one for me.

[461-69bird]

No it's not. I have damage to the lifters too

[25stevem]

In a friend's 3400. Lb first gen FB with the 290B we had a .030" over 455 with ported iron heads, a TII, 850 Holley with 12 to 1 comp running 10.80s.

It would be a toss up if you ask me as to which Intake you have there to run seeing what your E heads flow, I would try both.

[AG]

Originally Posted by 461-69bird

No it's not. I have damage to the lifters too

Is it a cast SR?

[tom s]

Never see a solid roller not a billet?Tom

[Steve C.]

X2

Different Cam Core Materials

https://www.streetmusclemag.com/news...ith-comp-cams/

From the video... "Anything made from a billet core will typically carry a part number ending in “-9” or higher."



If it's from Comp Cams look at the part number on the cam card. The last digit is the core type.
All my Comp solid roller cams had a -9 as the last number which indicates steel billet roller core.
I've seen other members cam cards and theirs had a -11, which is also steel billet roller core.




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[Steve C.]

Has it been copper coat plated in between the lobes ? If so this is due to a hardening process before the finish grind is completed. As far as I know this is done on steel billet cam cores.



.

[PAUL K]

Old stuff from thirty years ago or more may have been ground on a cast core. That was also one manufacturer's way around needing a bronze gear, or should I say not requiring a bronze gear with their "street grinds".

[Probird]

Originally Posted by 461-69bird

As my solid roller is damaged I'm looking at my cam options. Can't really justify replacing it with another roller because of the price and how little I use the car now.

I still have my previous cam a 290b. I used that with my same heads and a T2. I now have a Victor and the heads flow 300 from 260. Would the 290b work with the Victor or am I better off putting the T2 back on?

I assume the springs from the solid roller are too much for the 290b. The lift on the roller is .690, would the pushrods need replacing if I used the 290b?

I’d say the Victor would be fine with the 290B. You will definitely need new springs to match and probably different length pushrods. Compare the base circle of the 2 cams. If different you will need different pushrods. If it were me I’d find a used solid roller and replace the lifter that went bad. You can get them in pairs. Just make sure to check the rest of the roller lifters over good.

[461-69bird]

Sorry guys I misunderstood the question, it is a billet core. I'm in England so any repairs would mean sending it back to the US.

Probird, would you trust the other lifters? I had these out and inspected them when I did a head gasket change and that was less than 100 miles before the damage.

Also, is the block going to need cleaning? Would there be any needles from the broken lifter inside?

[Probird]

If you can determine why it failed other than just being old I would possibly reuse them. How old are they?

[Stan Weiss]

I contacted someone I know who has a shop on your side on the pond.

I think I would try Piper cams in the first instance then maybe Newman cams. I am not sure if either offer the metal spraying required.

If you have not contacted them it might be worth a try.

Stan

[461-69bird]

Probird, 3000 Street miles and 100 passes roughly.

Stan, I'll look into them.

What about the need for the block to be cleaned?

[AG]

Check for metal debris and disassemble and clean as necessary.