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  #61  
Old 03-10-2014, 11:24 AM
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Is this the photo angle you wanted? I will have to look back in the posts to see just how much you had to move that mounting point forward. 2 or 3 inches if I remember right. And If I remember you had a bit of interference with the tail shaft and had to ding the cross member some for clearance. So maybe drilling new holes in the frame to move the mounting point forward was not an option to relieve the twisting action you are finding. But hey - whatever works. Looks nice. Weathers beginning to break so "get 'er done".
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  #62  
Old 03-10-2014, 01:40 PM
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pf, i get a sag on the very end of the plate i welded on to the crossmember. i did have to beat the center of the crossmember for the drive shaft to go by. As it turns out i added between 4 and 5 inches to the mounting location. We also fab'd up a bracket for the TV Cable but, after building it we are going another route and have to fab a new one. I will post pics of the finished product.

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Old 03-10-2014, 01:44 PM
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Agreed on the 'get er done' BTW!

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  #64  
Old 03-10-2014, 04:08 PM
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If it is just a sag (or bending) of the extension and not a twisting of the cross member then maybe you could add stiffening (either topside or bottom side) at each edge to keep it from bending. Would be like making the extension into a channel iron and not a flat plate. Don't know if you have enough space for it topside. But the stiffening could be In a triangular shape tapering from the cross member forward. And could also be welded to the front side of the cross member for additional stiffening.

  #65  
Old 03-10-2014, 04:22 PM
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Another pic
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:23 PM
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pf, as in the pic i posted i removed the original trans mount bracket and rewelded it to the plate as a gusset. the cross member was twisting with the transmissions weight on it but i had no bolts in to the mount. If i install the bolts into the mount, i guess it will transmit the twisting force to mount itself and possibly cause premature wear of the mount. I have a little brainstorming to do before the final setting of the trans on the crossmember. I also do not think the transmission has enough weight to bend a 1/4" plate but, i have been wrong once before lol

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  #67  
Old 03-17-2014, 01:50 PM
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Default Couple more pics of this weekends progress

Crossmember in, drive shaft in, shift linkage modded up
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  #68  
Old 03-17-2014, 05:16 PM
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Looks like you about have it figured out Wilshire. Is it possible to see enough to guess at the trans to floor clearance?
I don't think there was a long tail shaft 200 but it looks like you might wish there was to keep the drive shaft out of the cross member if the wheels drop down full travel.

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Old 03-17-2014, 05:34 PM
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Trans to floor clearances about 3/8 of an inch. I will get some pictures tonight from the front so you can see how low the pan is compared to the crossmember. Axel is all the way down and driveshaft clears the trans cross member.

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Old 03-17-2014, 09:11 PM
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I may have a bit of a problem with the clearance to the ground lol. I won't know until I'm on the floor. It is for sure the lowest component on the car
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  #71  
Old 03-18-2014, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willshire View Post
I may have a bit of a problem with the clearance to the ground lol. I won't know until I'm on the floor. It is for sure the lowest component on the car
While the deep tranny pans give you added capacity, added strength and heat transfer, ground clearance is a costly tradeoff.

Cheers to clearance, Clarence!

  #72  
Old 03-18-2014, 10:36 AM
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Yikes,,,stock pan please

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  #73  
Old 03-18-2014, 11:49 AM
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Just enough clearance on the drive shaft! It's all tight under there and I may have to consider a custom crossmember
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  #74  
Old 03-18-2014, 11:52 AM
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I'm gonna need a skid plate! LOL. I may opt for HD springs for the front and rear to reduce the rake and square it up a bit

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  #75  
Old 03-19-2014, 12:57 PM
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HD springs to help get the ride height up? Be sure to read the thread about too much camber.

  #76  
Old 03-19-2014, 04:15 PM
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Agreed pf. Although i think right now i have too much rake because my 50 year old springs dont have any 'spring' left.

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  #77  
Old 03-19-2014, 08:05 PM
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I had a similar problem when I bought my 61. PO had put on Corvette disc brakes and in so doing he put in Corvette spindles so he could mount the calipers (sorry Scarebird). They were an inch longer than the Pontiac spindles so he reasoned he would have to cut an inch out of the springs to get it back level. Wrong. The one inch difference was all above the wheel center so all he did was drop the car 2-3 inches. Big rake, and I couldn't get my floor jack under it to jack it up so something had to be done. When I put in new springs it got the ride height back to stock but then I had to add shims to get the camber back to where it had been. I've got more shim than I would like but hey - it drives right so I'll stick with it.

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Old 03-20-2014, 03:23 PM
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Right now my GP is low in the front and normal to slightly high in the rear (air shocks). Moog 590's are OEM replacements for the front also. A little more info on the PY HD springs is required before i pull the trigger.

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My wife says she'd llike my car a lot more if it wasn't mine.


64 Grand Prix 389 .030, 1.65 Scorpion Rollers, Tripower, RARE Long Branch, Custom Stainless Exhaust and mufflers, 3.90 posi 200-4R. 068 cam.
  #79  
Old 03-20-2014, 04:09 PM
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Ok guys! what about the neutral safety/backup lamp switch mounted to the shifter? Any ideas on what to use to replace the old one? Being as reverse is now before neutral and not after. Sometimes little problems are a PITA too

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64 Grand Prix 389 .030, 1.65 Scorpion Rollers, Tripower, RARE Long Branch, Custom Stainless Exhaust and mufflers, 3.90 posi 200-4R. 068 cam.
  #80  
Old 03-20-2014, 06:31 PM
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Don't remember if you are still column mounted or have a console. But I would start by looking at a switch from the next later Pontiac year that used a 350 or 400 HM. Check it out and see if it can be mounted. Wiring should be easy compared to getting a mounting method.

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