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Old 09-13-2014, 07:03 PM
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Lightfoot Lightfoot is offline
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Question Ever not been able to get all the air completely out of your brakes?

On my '89 GM daily driver. I had to change out a caliper (RF) because the piston would not retract enough to get new pads installed.
Also the flex hose was splitting from age so I changed that at the same time.

Everything went smooth until it came time to bleed the brakes. I must have done close to a 100 pump & hold reps and it still had a few bubbles burping out every other try.
The master never came close to going dry, and everything was fine before I took the line apart at the wheel house. I gave in and bled the opposite wheel after I had run a half a quart of fluid through the repaired side. A very small bit of air spit out that (LF) side when I first tried it but it cleared out right away.
Went back to the RF and STILL getting 2-4 bb sized bubbles two out of three reps.

Finally gave up and put the wheels back on to give it a field test.
The car stops, but the stopping distance is not very impressive. And the pedal definately has a spongy feel to it when it did not beforehand.

My lines are NOT rusty, and I have never had an issue with fluid loss.
Triple checked all the fittings are tight, I'm formally ASE certified.

Any ideas?

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Old 09-13-2014, 07:48 PM
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David Jones David Jones is offline
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No chance it was sucking air through the bleeder threads?

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Old 09-13-2014, 08:55 PM
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Old Goat 67 Old Goat 67 is offline
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Not for many, many, many years!


Since I started using a plate like this, and a low pressure regulator from Harbor Freight, $10.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles..._bleeding_kit/

Most recently did a complete new system on a 70 Blazer without even bench bleeding the master cylinder. Five minutes and done with only about 2 teaspoons of wasted fluid. Pedal like a rock! Has been this way for me since the early 80's.
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Last edited by Old Goat 67; 09-13-2014 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 09-15-2014, 01:11 PM
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Lightfoot Lightfoot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Jones View Post
No chance it was sucking air through the bleeder threads?
That would be a plausible reason, but I know I sufficiently tighten the bleeder each time. It always BURSTS fluid/air when I crack it after pumping & holding. No wetness otherwise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Goat 67;
Since I started using a plate like this, and a low pressure regulator from Harbor Freight, $10.
I've used one like that at a shop I used to work at. They're nice.
$10 sound's pretty cheap. If I'd forseen this problem before I started, I would have picked one up.

I lost very minimal fluid when disconnecting the line from the old flex hose. Had the caliper end of the hose tied up to the top of the strut to eliminate syphoning. Had the new caliper already on the knuckle with pads installed. Thought all this out ahead of time to make it real efficient and not loose eccess fluid.
Just can't understand where the air is coming from. Unless the master has an internal leak from the booster....
But I had a GOOD pedal before I took it apart, for the 15,000 miles I've owned the car.

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Old 09-15-2014, 06:48 PM
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$30 at Harbor Fright - far easier than pressurising the sysem, work even with ABS.


http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html

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Old 09-23-2022, 06:32 PM
Hotrodjohn71 Hotrodjohn71 is offline
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OldGoat67,
Im going to make one of those things.
I apparently have air I just cant seem to get out.
Thank you for the link. What was your process? Did you tickle the pedal during the bleed?


Last edited by Hotrodjohn71; 09-23-2022 at 07:12 PM.
  #7  
Old 09-24-2022, 09:18 AM
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george kujanski george kujanski is offline
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Hotrod: unfortunately Old Goat67 has passed away.

George

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Old 09-24-2022, 10:48 AM
Hotrodjohn71 Hotrodjohn71 is offline
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Thank you George.

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Old 09-24-2022, 10:56 AM
JohnnyAction JohnnyAction is offline
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Default Air in brake system

I have had similar problems throughout the years not being able to get air out of a newly replaced caliper. Some remanufacturers of these calipers do not check, hone or sleeve the bores properly causing the seals to draw air into the system when retracting. You can check that caliper by carefully clamping off the brake hose to the caliper while slowly bleeding the caliper. If you get a solid pedal, you know the caliper is drawing air while retracting.

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